Water blades

Buffautodetail said:
Anybody use them on paint?
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NO!



Here is why.



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Honestly depending on the car we use them but also wash them down with APC first. Generally only use them on beaters that come in for quick washes and when we do our express details at the malls etc.
 
A friend of mine--who is not an Autopian by any means- bought one a few years ago and used it on his parents' brand new 2010 black Mercedes Benz-----I knew that it was trouble but u can only bring people to water, u can't force them to drink.



Sure enough, he came screaming for help after he saw the scratches that the blade instilled on the paint.



It's garbage...Although it's rubber, it's still a blade.

Use a leaf blower or soft Microfiber.
 
Is it the waterblade that is causing the problems or the lack of understanding how to take the proper precautions to eliminate damage? If you're going through the proper rituals when you rinse via powerwasher, monitor the cleanliness of the blade and using it on sections of the vehicle that would not have exposure to isolated abrasives, then you're in the clear.
 
David Fermani said:
Is it the waterblade that is causing the problems or the lack of understanding how to take the proper precautions to eliminate damage? If you're going through the proper rituals when you rinse via powerwasher, monitor the cleanliness of the blade and using it on sections of the vehicle that would not have exposure to isolated abrasives, then you're in the clear.
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Agreed, but there is always the risk, which to me simply isn't worth it. It is great for glass though and shower doors. :xyxthumbs
 
I use it on beaters and white paint...but very carefully. If you get the technique right you won't have problems.



However, I don't use it on dark colours just in case...
 
It's garbage...Although it's rubber, it's still a blade.

Use a leaf blower or soft Microfiber.



When I do high end work I blade the windows and use compressed air followed by blotting with WW blah blah. But like I said Junkers get the blade for efficiency reasons.
 
What's to say that same spec of sand that can get lodged in your blade will not get lodged in your towel and cause damage too. It's alot easier to detect this with a blade because you can constantly inspect/clean it. You can't do this with a towel. Yes, the severity could be different, but like I said, if you use professional experience & common sense I feel these tools can be a great drying aide in certain scenarios.
 
I used to use one only on our beater '99 CRV. Now that I have the Metrovac Masterblaster, I've retired the blade. Too risky IMO.



Asif
 
David Fermani said:
What's to say that same spec of sand that can get lodged in your blade will not get lodged in your towel and cause damage too. It's alot easier to detect this with a blade because you can constantly inspect/clean it. You can't do this with a towel. Yes, the severity could be different, but like I said, if you use professional experience & common sense I feel these tools can be a great drying aide in certain scenarios.
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It can definitely happen with towels too, but they will most likely be far less severe since towels have a longer nap and offer cushion for that spec of sand to settle back into the towel. Obviously you know all this, David. I'm just putting it out there for others to read. ;)



That black Genesis I did had lots of straight and vertical scratches all down the sides. As was a little baffled at first until the owner said he used a water blade to dry. Luckily only that one scratch on the door required sanding.
 
I use a waffle weave towel then go back over the paint with soft hospital (terri) towels, never had much of an issue doing this. I don't even like using the blade on glass, chulk it up to operator error as I always find myself going back over the glass with MF or glass towels.
 
When I do use a blade I found using it at 30-45 degrees reduces the friction and drag it creates, and reduces the possibility of marring.
 
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