Wash and wax?

P

phatrs

New member
Hi all,
I currently use a snow foam then remove with high pressure spray before washing with a mitt and a budget car detergent, and I’m very happy with the appearance but I usually don’t have time to apply a spray wax to help maintain the carnauba wax coating.

Do you folks recommend using a wash and wax soap as a way to prolong the life of a wax coating?


Ben - Melbourne/Australia

Now: ‘19 VW Golf R, ‘15 Polo GTI
Before: ‘06 RenaultSport Megane 225 Cup, ‘14 VW Polo GTI, ‘12 VW Golf GTI, ‘06 VW Golf GTI, ‘05 VW Golf Sportline, ‘01 Holden Astra SRi, ‘00 Nissan Pulsar SSS, ‘99 Holden Astra CD, ‘98 Nissan Pulsar SLX, ‘91 Nissan Pulsar GL with Q engine swap, ‘80 Subaru Leone
 
briarpatch said:
Do you have time to utilize a spray wax as a drying aid?
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I could do that.


Ben - Melbourne/Australia

Now: ‘19 VW Golf R, ‘15 Polo GTI
Before: ‘06 RenaultSport Megane 225 Cup, ‘14 VW Polo GTI, ‘12 VW Golf GTI, ‘06 VW Golf GTI, ‘05 VW Golf Sportline, ‘01 Holden Astra SRi, ‘00 Nissan Pulsar SSS, ‘99 Holden Astra CD, ‘98 Nissan Pulsar SLX, ‘91 Nissan Pulsar GL with Q engine swap, ‘80 Subaru Leone
 
phatrs said:
Hi all,
I currently use a snow foam then remove with high pressure spray before washing with a mitt and a budget car detergent, and I’m very happy with the appearance but I usually don’t have time to apply a spray wax to help maintain the carnauba wax coating.

Do you folks recommend using a wash and wax soap as a way to prolong the life of a wax coating?
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Nah, I`d just use a longer-lasting LSP in the first place. The stuff Wash + Wax shampoos leave behind is pretty minimal at best and a pure marketing BS gimmick at worst.

I`m a little curious about that " I usually don’t have time to apply a spray wax..". If you`re not touch-drying I can understand, but if drying with a towel/etc., spritzing on a bit of SprayWax as a Drying Aid takes literally seconds and IMO it doesn`t increase the time spent drying by an appreciable amount.

Oh, and FWIW, noting that unsolicited advice is about as popular as [INSERT bad thing HERE]...I`d sure quit using a "budget car detergent". After many years and countless gallons of [whatever was on sale], I switched to good shampoos and it made a *world* of difference. IME getting the best possible shampoo with regards to cleaning/lubricity/encapsulation *while being LSP-friendly* is downright crucial to my getting acceptable results. I don`t even understand how anyone can get decent results with Meguiar`s Gold Class, and that`s considered a mid-range product, not a bargain one.

Oh and FWIW#2...I hope that "snow foam" is LSP-friendly so you`re not just stripping your wax every wash.

Eh...I do recognize the downside here- it can be a trade-off between spending money and spending time/effort; I`m all about preserving the latter but others will go the other way with perfectly good reasons why.
 
Accumulator said:
I don`t even understand how anyone can get decent results with Meguiar`s Gold Class, and that`s considered a mid-range product, not a bargain one.
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I don’t understand that either. Just because something is named “Gold Class” doesn’t mean it really is such. I use 3D Pink Soap and am perfectly happy. It has plenty of lubrication and cleans beautifully.
 
Thanks for the replies so far!

The snow foam is from Autoglym so I assume it wouldn’t strip my carnauba. I’ll definitely look at using a better soap based on your advice, and I’ll see what spray waves are available that can be used as a drying aid. My current spray retailer has carnauba in it and recommends being buffed off after because it to contains carnauba.
 
i use Mkee`s37 and the 3d pink soap pretty happy with both.car is black and both do a nice job and leave a nice shine.
 
phatrs said:
Thanks for the replies so far!

The snow foam is from Autoglym so I assume it wouldn’t strip my carnauba. I’ll definitely look at using a better soap based on your advice, and I’ll see what spray waves are available that can be used as a drying aid. My current spray retailer has carnauba in it and recommends being buffed off after because it to contains carnauba.
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If it’s polar blast it should be ph neutral.... safe for your Lsp. I second using a drying aid. It’ll add maybe 10 extra minutes on the actually drying but is well worth it


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I never saw much of a difference with “wash and wax” some provided a bit of gloss enhancement........





that was until I recently tried the new Wolfgang SiO2 wash. Stuff if amazing. Adds some serious gloss and will take an unprotected car to beading with just a simple wash. Definitely adds a boost to any LSP on the vehicle. Stuff is very pricy but really performs well.

https://www.autogeek.net/wolfgang-uber-sio2-coating-wash.html
 
Coatings=crack- Does "ph neutral" = LSP-friendly? I just don`t know. Sure, seriously alkaline/acidic stuff will strip it, but otherwise...???

I`ve gotten used to my shampoos having basically zero effect on my LSPs, sure don`t want to reLSP anything every few months!

Dr. Oldz- Heh heh, "very pricey" indeed! Nobody`s ever accused me of being a cheapskate, but I`d never pay $2/oz. for a carwash shampoo! But then the way I wash uses a *lot* more than an approach like the 2BM...I could go through that pint bottle in one wash if the Tahoe were really dirty!

But hey, I`m not flaming the stuff, and I appreciate your posting about it as it sounds like they`ve taken the "wash that leaves stuff behind" concept to a whole new level. That`s awfully impressive for something that gets rinsed off!

phatrs- I generally like Autoglym stuff, but I don`t know from their Snow Foam.

For me, the big challenge is to find a good-enough shampoo that`s reasonably priced. I won`t buy in quantities less than a gallon and I try to get what is affordable when it`s on sale (shampoos never go bad, infinite shelf-life).

I gather you have your preferences in LSP all figured out and that they trend towards carnaubas, right?

I`m asking because I no longer use LSPs that are short-lived or that don`t protect against birds/bugs/etching and I kinda think of carnaubas that way. Although I did use Souveran as the topper on my Jag when I was driving it (might rethink that should I get it out of mothballs).

The SprayWaxes I use are Meguiar`s Ultimate Quick Wax (generally just on trim/etc.) and Optimum Car Wax (generally just on paint and plastic lenses). Both have been utterly Accumulator-proof and IMO are reasonably priced.

Close behind those SprayWaxes are my fave QD (FK425) and RW (IUDJ mixed to near-QD-strength). (I have a *scad* of other QDs on the shelf but am basically just using them up on the undercarriages).
 
I’d skip the process. Really, IMO, traditional soap is a dinosaur for the most part. Switch to a rinseless / waterless combo like Pinnacle or Ultima - regardless if your pre-rinsing or not. They leave behind similar to what a QD or spray wax does with no added work.
 
Maybe it was placebo effect, or the fact I had just gotten into detailing on a serious level and hadn`t anything outside of what Target sold. But I use to love Chemical Guys Citrus Wash & Gloss.

But, as with 90% of detailing products for every person who recommends something, you`ll find another who says it`s the worst thing out there lol.
 
Accumulator said:
Coatings=crack- Does "ph neutral" = LSP-friendly? I just don`t know. Sure, seriously alkaline/acidic stuff will strip it, but otherwise...???.
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Definetly not a scientist but most time I read soaps are PH neutral the say it’s LSP safe. RESET is not PH neutral yet it is coating safe. Not sure about any other LSP.



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I`ve had pretty good results with TW ICE wash and wax but it`s not as durable as using a good spray wax. It also really perks up faded trim too.

IMO soaps are very dependent on your local water chemistry. Some work great for me, others are just horrible.

That said, personally I`d skip the foaming and just pressure wash the dirt off. Use that time saved for a quick wax as you dry.
 
Coatings=crack said:
Definetly not a scientist but most time I read soaps are PH neutral the say it’s LSP safe...
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I`ve quit going by manufacturer/vendor "info" like that. It`s like "clearcoat safe" and other vague claims that products won`t, uhm...disappoint.

Ever see a conventional shampoo`s label say "this stuff will compromise your wax"? ;)

Some of my Wheel Cleaners are labelled "ph neutral" but they`ll strip LSPs quite effectively, as I found out when I used them on waxed wheels :o For that matter, some presumed-high-quality shampoos have stripped LSPs incredibly well (or should I say "badly"?), products like the BF stuff that came with their v1.0 All Finish Paint Protection kit, and even Pinnacle Bodywork Shampoo (which I still always liked, used gallons of it back in the day) could do it.
 
Dan said:
IMO soaps are very dependent on your local water chemistry. Some work great for me, others are just horrible.
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I agree. Compared to experiences at my previous shop, some of mine work quite differently in my current home shop where I have really good (softened/filtered) water.

That said, personally I`d skip the foaming and just pressure wash the dirt off. Use that time saved for a quick wax as you dry.
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I agree with that idea too, at least I`d consider it worth a try. With a good LSP, the pressure washer pre-rinse can get things almost "normal person clean", if not Autopian Clean.

If I`m spraying something besides water during the pre-wash/rinse, I do it through the Lonn Cleaning Gun using high pressure (like, over 100psi). Now *that* can be worth doing if a vechicle is *really* nasty, although it works so well that it`s tempting to just rinse it off, blow it dry, and say "Home Touchless Wash is done!"

But eh, I`ve never used a Foam Cannon/etc. so I can`t *really* say much about the efficacy of that, huh?!? :o
 
Accumulator said:
I`ve quit going by manufacturer/vendor "info" like that. It`s like "clearcoat safe" and other vague claims that products won`t, uhm...disappoint.

Ever see a conventional shampoo`s label say "this stuff will compromise your wax"? ;)

Some of my Wheel Cleaners are labelled "ph neutral" but they`ll strip LSPs quite effectively, as I found out when I used them on waxed wheels :o For that matter, some presumed-high-quality shampoos have stripped LSPs incredibly well (or should I say "badly"?), products like the BF stuff that came with their v1.0 All Finish Paint Protection kit, and even Pinnacle Bodywork Shampoo (which I still always liked, used gallons of it back in the day) could do it.
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I don’t have as much detail experience as you but so for ph neutral soaps (I’ve only used 3) have been . The ultimate wheel cleaner and 3 types of iron remover have been good.

I would love to find a product that could remove LSP on top of coating but not harm coating...


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Coatings=crack- Well, heh heh, one potential downside of my having done this for so long is that I still think in terms of experiences that might no longer be relevant :o

"Boo hoo, Pinnacle Bodywork Shampoo stripped my Souveran!"

"Hey old guy, that was 30-some years ago, things change."
 
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