Want to get 4" pads

B

blownvert

New member
I used 6.5" pads and i did not get really any correction for a 12 hour buffing job. What a waste of time. So people are saying to get 4" pads. I have a pc 7424. So what do i need? For 6.5" pads i have, 1 yellow, 2 orange, 2 white, 2 gray, 1 blue. I see AG sells 2 packs of 4" LC CCS pads. Which backing plate am i getting? I see 2-3/4 Hook & Loop Backing Plate and 3.5" Dual Action Flexible Backing Plate- porter cable 7424 or 7336 hook and loop backing plate 3.5 inch. Also what is this D.A Adapter 5/8" X 11 I dont need that i dont have a rotary. I hear people talking about that purple wool 3.5 pad. Am i going to use all 4" pads for whole buffing and no more 6.5" pads? Can i ruin or burn my paint with 4" pads?
 
i like the edge adapter and pad system using the cyclo 4" precision pads from AG. You could use the 3.5" backing plate w/ 4" pads but if wanted to use the PFW you'll need the 2-3/4" backing plate. if your still not happy with the results after trying 4" pads you might consider going to a stronger machine like the udm, flex or even step it up to a rotary.
 
letting you know that i have only buffed twice now. will i be able to handle 4" pads? it will take alot longer to do the whole car. why does it say spot buffs if im doing the whole car with a 4" pad, not just a section? Do people either get the PFW or the 4" pads? Also can i still use my same polish, the ssr line or bump it up to IP? I just want these darn scratches, swirls removed.
 
you'll be fine with the 4" pads. you should get the 3.5" backing plate and that's all you need. However, if you go for those 4" orange pads that are on clearance, beware that the velcro doesn't cover the entire back of the pad so the backing plate tends to cut into the foam. The 4" CCS pads DO cover the entire back with velcro so not an issue. Since I have a few of both, I went ahead and got the 2 3/4 backing plate. The adaptors you see are for rotary and power drill use I think.
 
blownvert said:
letting you know that i have only buffed twice now. will i be able to handle 4" pads? it will take alot longer to do the whole car. why does it say spot buffs if im doing the whole car with a 4" pad, not just a section? Do people either get the PFW or the 4" pads? Also can i still use my same polish, the ssr line or bump it up to IP? I just want these darn scratches, swirls removed.
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I use the 4" spot buff pads, and they make the PC work a lot more efficiently. It doesn't take much longer to use the 4" versus 5.5 or 6" pads. In fact, it might go faster because the correction is better. What polish you use is up to you. It also depends on the kind of car, and how hard the paint is. I have a C5 Corvette, and the clearcoat is insanely hard. My wife's Jet Black BMW is soft as butter. I've had great luck with the Menzerna SIP/Nano combo.
 
blownvert said:
......will i be able to handle 4" pads?.........
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Yes, with no problems.... just use a little common sense.
......it will take alot longer to do the whole car.......
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Not really, in fact the correcting will be quicker with 4" pads. I even apply my LSP with 4" pads and don't feel it takes that much longer.
....why does it say spot buffs if im doing the whole car with a 4" pad, not just a section?.......
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They were originally designed to just correct in a small spot and I guess the name just stuck.
.....Do people either get the PFW or the 4" pads?.....
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The 3.5" PWF are fairly new and used to remove pretty stubborn defects. I'd recommend that you start out with 4" foam pads and see how that works before trying 3.5" PFW.
....Also can i still use my same polish, the ssr line or bump it up to IP? I just want these darn scratches, swirls removed.
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You can use the SSR's with 4" pads, but if you're not getting the results you want you can try another line of polishes. The 1Z line of polishes/compounds seems to be getting pretty popular around here for their ease of use and good results. Accumulator writes a lot about them.



The following site has some pictures of SSR 2.5 being broken down in stages so you might want to take a look:



Paintcare & Detailing - Enthusiasts guide to detailing
 
Great post, John. I couldn't have said it any better.



After switching over to 4" pads on my PC, I have yet to use my 5.5" pads....even for applying my LSP.
 
Agreed - great stuff, John. Ditto EisenHulk - my 5.5" pads are sitting all by their lonesome, up on the high shelf. 4" pads are great - not only for paint correction work, but also for getting closer to door handles and trim. A-pillars are now a pleasure. :D



Accumulator has me convinced on the PFW pad, and I'll be buying one on my next order. I have to admit, though, that doing so will be a little bittersweet. I recently bought a Makita rotary, and have struggled with it a bit. The 4" pads are so effective that I've been lazy about tackling the learning curve on the rotary, and I suspect the 3.5" PFW will only add to that.



I also echo the 2.75" backing plate - a good investment for the PC. Also, IME I've never been really pleased with the CCS pads, and the 4" ones have only confirmed that further. Most likely yewzer error, but it seems like I spend just as much time cleaning them as I do polishing with them.



John - great to see a link to Charles' site too. He - a bit unwittingly I'm sure - has been my detailing mentor over the years. :D
 
VroomVroom said:
Agreed - great stuff, John. Ditto EisenHulk - my 5.5" pads are sitting all by their lonesome, up on the high shelf. 4" pads are great - not only for paint correction work, but also for getting closer to door handles and trim. A-pillars are now a pleasure. :D



Accumulator has me convinced on the PFW pad, and I'll be buying one on my next order. I have to admit, though, that doing so will be a little bittersweet. I recently bought a Makita rotary, and have struggled with it a bit. The 4" pads are so effective that I've been lazy about tackling the learning curve on the rotary, and I suspect the 3.5" PFW will only add to that.



I also echo the 2.75" backing plate - a good investment for the PC. Also, IME I've never been really pleased with the CCS pads, and the 4" ones have only confirmed that further. Most likely yewzer error, but it seems like I spend just as much time cleaning them as I do polishing with them.



John - great to see a link to Charles' site too. He - a bit unwittingly I'm sure - has been my detailing mentor over the years. :D
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so you do not like a 3.5" BP with 4" CCS pads? Where is the cheapest place to get them all. I seem to only find everything at AG for 4" CCS pads.
 
why do people start or get 6.5"? I knew i shouldnt of got those, i thought they would have correction, unless im not doing it right. I thought it would get everything out easily. So basically im getting the same pads as i have in 6.5", but in 4"? Smaller the pad means more product build up will be on the pad. Do i need to use more than 1 pad for orange lets say to correct the whole car? Do i still put it on speed 6 to work it in? I spread it around manually, then spread it around at speed 3, then speed 6 to work it in?
 
I prefer 4" pads, mainly because you don't need to have the machine on speed 6 to remove defects... Speed 6 can finally be what it is meant for, spot heavy-polishing, then bump back down to 5 to continue polishing.



6.5" pads are still great for less intense polishing, and with enough pressure on speed 6 can remove a lot of swirls.



But not nearly as much as a 4" pad on speed 5 with the same pressure!
 
blownvert said:
so from reading i dont need yellow 4" pads and should i get LC pads because i have only used LC pads.
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You don't need to limit yourself to LC pads, just be aware that different pad colors may not translate the same as LC pad colors as far as the aggressive rating goes.
 
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