Using poli-seal correctly

T

Type[R]+

New member
Hi guys,



I finally got my poli-seal last night, and have just finished detailing my car.



I had the old NXT on my car, only put it on about 4 - 5 weeks ago. It still had heaps of protection left.



I just washed and dried, then straight to poli-seal. It didn't need a clay.



I decided to use the edge blue (soft polish) pad on my G220 DA, and I know now that I used totally too much product. From what I've read here, I knew it would disappear, but it would disappear like straight away. I kept loading the pad so I could have some product to work with. There was hardly and residue left, is this normal?



I don't know if it was because of the NXT still on the car or what, but it didn't seem to do much. The finish seemed the same as the NXT. I wasn't real impressed at all.



After that I thought stuff it, I used a white (final finish) edge pad, and used the poli-seal like I would use NXT (as little as possible). Holy ****! I ended up with a killer gloss like I have never ever seen before on my car.



I topped it with opti-seal, and am very impressed with this product also. It just added some extra gloss and slickness. I just hope it lasts a while...



Now, do you guys use poli-seal to strip old sealant and wax?

I thought the megs paint cleaner did a better job.

Or was it because I used way too much with the first pad?



I think I am getting a hang of this whole less is better thing.
 
Sounds like you used too much the first time and the edge blue pad may have been too soft. I don't use edge pads, but I normally use Poli-Seal with 5.5" orange or white pad on the PC. I didn't like using it with a black pad which I think the edge blue pad is comparable to. You can do some decent marring correction (no scratches) with the orange pad and still finish off very nicely.



You probably needed to strip that NXT off better also. The NXT and too much PS probably kept the polish and pad from getting any bite. The second time around you had a cleaner surface and had better results
 
DJBAILEY said:
Sounds like you used too much the first time and the edge blue pad may have been too soft. I don't use edge pads, but I normally use Poli-Seal with 5.5" orange or white pad on the PC. I didn't like using it with a black pad which I think the edge blue pad is comparable to. You can do some decent marring correction (no scratches) with the orange pad and still finish off very nicely.
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Next time I will try a green (light cut/polishing) pad and see what that does.

The paint is in great condition as the car is new.



DJBAILEY said:
You probably needed to strip that NXT off better also. The NXT and too much PS probably kept the polish and pad from getting any bite. The second time around you had a cleaner surface and had better results
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Yeah, that's what I thought. My first reaction was that it wasn't doing squat.

I was under the impression that the poli-seal would be able to strip old stuff off the paint.

I might have to still use my megs paint cleaner first, before poli-seal.



I will do my 4x4 over the weekend, I think I like this stuff. I just have to get used to the product.



Anyway, here's a pic of the poli/opti-seal combo on my car:

opt-euro.jpg
 
unless you have light correcting to do, just apply it at speeds 3-4 and work it slowly. It will disappear fast, but you should see a little trail off the pad about 2-3 inches as you go over a section where you can see it flashing off. It definately looks great topped with OOS.
 
Type[R]+, Poli-Seal needs one word: trust. You should trust it's there and doing its job. When the thought of *dry buffing* pushes the Red Alert button in your mind, it is very hard to do. But yes, OPS works residue free. If you want to do a little correction, work it on speed 6, but if you just want to do some nice cleaning, use speeds 3-4 as integrity said. But adding too much product overlubricates the surface, and its cut will be compromised.



It will clean off the existing LSP layers.
 
Yes it will clean off what is on there since it's laced with mineral spirits , so all old stuff should go by , by. Great product though.
 
Great product but if you use too much it dosent work to well.I used it for the first time last year and wasnt impressed with it at all untill i realized i used to much and with the wrong pad.

I then tried for some very little correction with a lc green pad and the Flex and....whoa...great finish and pop.I love this stuff.
 
Bence said:
Type[R]+, Poli-Seal needs one word: trust. You should trust it's there and doing its job. When the thought of *dry buffing* pushes the Red Alert button in your mind, it is very hard to do. But yes, OPS works residue free. If you want to do a little correction, work it on speed 6, but if you just want to do some nice cleaning, use speeds 3-4 as integrity said. But adding too much product overlubricates the surface, and its cut will be compromised.



It will clean off the existing LSP layers.
Click to expand...

Cheers Bence. I sort of figured that out when I went over the car a second time with the final finish pad and used hardly any product at all. I really took my time and it really blew my mind the improvement it really made. I could still see where I went over, but it was like a clear layer.
 
integritydetail said:
unless you have light correcting to do, just apply it at speeds 3-4 and work it slowly. It will disappear fast, but you should see a little trail off the pad about 2-3 inches as you go over a section where you can see it flashing off. It definately looks great topped with OOS.
Click to expand...

Yeah, Im really happy with this stuff now. The second Time I went over the car, I really took my time and it glossed up unbelievably.



The OOS made it even more special. You could tell as soon as you put it on, it made a difference. It just added a glow and way more depth to the paint. Very happy with this and recommend it to anyone. From what I read on here, I really used only a few sprays to do the whole car. One spray per panel really. Even if it only lasts a little while, I'm not worried, because it only took me about 5 minutes to do the car. I got 2 layers on my car now, it looks like I got 10 coats of clear on it. Very impressed!
 
So do think the best option would be to do it once with a polishing pad ( mine is Megs yellow , i use a PC ) then do it again with a finish pad (black Megs ) . I don't know if there is a point in layering any thing with PS .



Whats speeds for polishing with it and what speed for finishing with it ?



TYPE R , what do you think of the OS ? have you tried the OCW ?
 
^^^



I personally don't see any reason to layering PS since it contains cleaners and is a product made to be an AIO. If you're going to go two rounds with it, you might as well just go with a dedicated polish the first time around.



I've used PS, OS, & OID all together and it looks killer. Even PS & OCW look great!
 
Fallguy said:
So do think the best option would be to do it once with a polishing pad ( mine is Megs yellow , i use a PC ) then do it again with a finish pad (black Megs ) . I don't know if there is a point in layering any thing with PS .
Click to expand...

You won't be able to layer poli-seal.

I am sure I could have just used one pad, but it was the very first time I used this stuff. I am still getting used to it. When I took my time the second time, the results were stunning. I had previously been using NXT, and just the OPS blew this away.



Fallguy said:
Whats speeds for polishing with it and what speed for finishing with it ?
Click to expand...
I found with the final finish pad, I was getting great result between 3 and 4 on my Meg's G220 DA.



Fallguy said:
TYPE R , what do you think of the OS ? have you tried the OCW ?
Click to expand...
I love this OOS stuff. It really made a difference as soon as you wiped it on. And that is amazing, since I was blown away by the gloss from the OPS when I used it the second time over my car. It really added a real glow to my dark gray metallic paint.



Tell you the truth, I keep on going outside and looking at my car and smiling. :shocked The paint on any of my cars has never been this good. The paint is so slick too.

I could only imagine how good some of these pro's details look!



I put 2 coats of OOS on my car, it really is wipe on - walk away. It just added more depth and gloss straight away. For what it would cost you ($25?) you get a 8oz bottle that is ment to do 40 cars.



I haven't tried OCW, but I was thinking of getting some. It seems to be all the rage here 'down under' and ment to be the same look as P21S but last a fair bit longer.

I was going to see how this OPS and OOS went first. I can tell you that I won't be putting anything over the top of this stuff! I might get some Zaino Z8 though, I am still curious to see how that goes. But that is going to have to wait a while.
 
going to grab some of this to try with my OS and OCW - like the idea of using it to clear up a little light marring as well as cleaning and protecting.
 
I used poli-seal again today on my 4x4.

I used an edge green (light cutting) pad and used the OPS sparingly this time!!!

It did quite a good job! I love this stiff, and it's a genuine A-I-O!!!

The opti-seal is just a bonus!



street-prado.jpg
 
Type[R]+ said:
Cheers Bence. I sort of figured that out when I went over the car a second time with the final finish pad and used hardly any product at all. I really took my time and it really blew my mind the improvement it really made. I could still see where I went over, but it was like a clear layer.
Click to expand...



Hey Type(R) - I lived in Geraldton in late 1981 for a few months before moving to Sydney! :D
 
tdekany said:
Hey Type(R) - I lived in Geraldton in late 1981 for a few months before moving to Sydney! :D
Click to expand...
With the Army I take it! :xyxthumbs



You should see Geralton now! It isn't a tiny town anymore...
 
Now back on topic lol,



How do you guys get a super gloss with OPS using the random orbital?



Do you speed up to finish or slow down?



I ask because I see 'jeweling' done on rotarys by slowing down?
 
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