I've been reading how some will argue that to fully remove this type of contamination one must use a decontamination product like ABC, FinishKare, or something else. Is it true that clay will only remove the top portion of the contamination leaving the rest still imbedded in the clear/paint? Does it depend on how fresh/deep the contamination is?
using clay or a decontamination system for IFO, brake/rail dust
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White95Max
New member
My experience with the FK1 decon system was very poor. I followed the directions completely, and even used the step2 three times, AND let it dwell for 8 minutes (each time) instead of the recommended 6-7 minutes. I believe they say to let it dwell for 6 minutes for average contamination, and 7 minutes for severe contamination or something. The stuff smells terrible, and I don't believe it's very safe for you or anything else.
I can say for sure that it loosened up the contamination, and made it easier to clay the car. But it certainly did not dissolve the contaminants, leaving a perfectly smooth, clean surface. That's what I was expecting.
Decon was a big dissapointment for me. I'll be sticking with clay.
I can say for sure that it loosened up the contamination, and made it easier to clay the car. But it certainly did not dissolve the contaminants, leaving a perfectly smooth, clean surface. That's what I was expecting.
Decon was a big dissapointment for me. I'll be sticking with clay.
Accumulator
Well-known member
Other product/other side of the coin here 
I've only used the AutoInt ABC system, and I clayed while the acidic/"B" step was dwelling. On the vehicles I used it on, I've had *none* of the recurring rust-blooms that plagued many of my previous cars. Any new contamination seems to clay off and stay gone, so I believe I got all the embedded new-car-delivery stuff out of the paint with the decontamination system. Or else those vehicles weren't contaminated in the first place and I wasted my time and money :nixweiss
And yeah, the fresher the contamination the more effective the system will be. I'd still give it a try though, at least you'll know you did everything possible to solve the problem.
I've only used the AutoInt ABC system, and I clayed while the acidic/"B" step was dwelling. On the vehicles I used it on, I've had *none* of the recurring rust-blooms that plagued many of my previous cars. Any new contamination seems to clay off and stay gone, so I believe I got all the embedded new-car-delivery stuff out of the paint with the decontamination system. Or else those vehicles weren't contaminated in the first place and I wasted my time and money :nixweiss
And yeah, the fresher the contamination the more effective the system will be. I'd still give it a try though, at least you'll know you did everything possible to solve the problem.
White95Max
New member
Yeah my Protege was over 6 years old already, and I doubt it had ever been waxed, and certainly not clayed. The whole car clung to water like a cactus. The contamination could have been sitting on/in the paint for years.
Accumulator
Well-known member
White95max- Yeah, in your case I'd say it just gave the Mazda a good cleaning. Not that *that* isn't reason enough to use the stuff 
It just couldn't work its usual (new-car) magic.
It just couldn't work its usual (new-car) magic.