Bobcat
New member
I started a thread a few days ago looking for help on a BMW with real bad scratches in the clear coat, not bad enough to catch your fingernail, but it looked like someone tried to clean some spots with a brillo pad. I had tried XMT #3 with an LC yellow pad, 3 passes and still not much better. I ordered some Meg's #85, #84 and # 1; since #1 was the next step up I tried it first. PC w/yellow pad, 3 passes and it was some better but the polish was dusting up and I decided OK lets see what #84 can do. Let me state my technigue is to apply polish to the pad, smear it on the scratch, then start the PC on 4 - then bump to 6 after about 10 seconds, work the crap out of it till it's gone with as much pressure as I can manage (I ain't "Arnold" ok) So, after 3 passes it was working, the #84 was much nicer smelling and didn't dust at all. Did I mention that I started on this at 10:00 pm Friday night? OK, after about an hour, I decided to go with the wool pad. Worked much better, the way I finally got the scratches out - well all but 2 and they are very hard to see, was to leave the PC over the scratch for one minute - again with all the force my tired butt could manage at this point. At 1:30 am, I had the car looking dull, but scratchless. Started Saturday at 8:30 am, washed with Dawn, dried, used WG clay, followed by WG swirl remover w/orange pad, then WG glaze w/white pad and finally WG sealer w/blue pad. While the sealer cured I did the glass and wheels/tires. At 3:00pm the owner and his wife came over. They were impressed! She said she was worried that when he bought that car - all their friends would see the paint and think they got one that had been total'd! He was so happy he gave me a 20 dollar tip! And they both promised to send more business my way, first thing is her SUV.
Summary:
You can get results from a PC with #84, but it takes time - lots of time and a strong back. Anybody that finds themself in a situation like mine would be MUCH better off getting a rotary. I didn't come close to messing up the guys' paint - I know some forum members had doubts. I learned NOT to be scared to use the strong stuff and work the PC at it's limits. I'd say that unless you're dealing with paint that has no clear coat - like it's been buffed out 2-3 times before, there's little chance to screw up. BUT! using a PC to correct anything but minor swirls and water spots is asking for a workout. I'm just a part time detailer, trying to earn a few bucks and all my business comes from word of mouth. I'm afraid that there will be other cars with "issues" and I will not go through that pain again, nor will I turn away business, instead, I'm getting a Makita rotary, well - actually my wife is buying one for me! Time is money and rotary's do a better job anyway.
Summary:
You can get results from a PC with #84, but it takes time - lots of time and a strong back. Anybody that finds themself in a situation like mine would be MUCH better off getting a rotary. I didn't come close to messing up the guys' paint - I know some forum members had doubts. I learned NOT to be scared to use the strong stuff and work the PC at it's limits. I'd say that unless you're dealing with paint that has no clear coat - like it's been buffed out 2-3 times before, there's little chance to screw up. BUT! using a PC to correct anything but minor swirls and water spots is asking for a workout. I'm just a part time detailer, trying to earn a few bucks and all my business comes from word of mouth. I'm afraid that there will be other cars with "issues" and I will not go through that pain again, nor will I turn away business, instead, I'm getting a Makita rotary, well - actually my wife is buying one for me! Time is money and rotary's do a better job anyway.