Underbody Care: Keeping it clean and rust free

Dan

Well-known member
So I picked up a new ride, Wrangler Unlimited. This being my 5th Wrangler, I'm no stranger to undercarriage rust. Seems like they just start rusting the day you drive them off the lot. The paint on the frame/axles/suspension bits makes Dutch Boy look expensive. I hate when my paint looks great and the underside of the Jeep looks like crap. I'd love to be able to slow/stop the corrosion.





Needs:

-Prevents Rust

-Doesn't attract dirt/stay tacky

-Won't flake off or cause more water retention

-Won't make the exposed parts look worse, ie covered in some thick waxy looking film



I actually like Amsoil (regular) MP, but I'm not sure it offers the protection I need. I'm ok with two applications a year if need be, I don't need the stuff to last 5 years. The Valugard looks interesting but I'm not sure if its ok to use on the axles and frame, seems more of a product for inside panels. On BobistheOilguy, the texaco stuff seems popular but you can only get it in 5 gallon pails.
 
Look into Eastwood's Black Heavy Duty Metal Protector (link: Heavy Duty Anti Rust Quarts Black ). They also offer it in spray cans.



I've used it with zero complaints, it's always worked *VERY* well for me and is my go-to for cases where I'm not gonna do it right (i.e., a Paint Over Rust type approach). Example- it sure worked *GREAT* on that ratty beater-Blazer I had which had a crusty-nasty underneath (according the the current owner, it's still holding up great all these years later). Minimal prep required, some areas of the Blazer where I did a really half-@$$ed prep, just to see what would happen, turned out about as good as the areas that I prepped right. Easy to touch up if/when a jack/etc. messes it up.



And yeah, it ends up *almost* like paint after it dries, not tacky/etc. in a way that'd attract/retain dirt and dust. I wash it with a mild APC mix as part of my Autopian undercarriage maintenance, no problems with it coming off.



Seriously, this is the [stuff]. This'll be one more thing you and I do agree on :D
 
Dan - HD makes a Rust & Corrosion Protector(in their newest catalog) that is a clear coating that I'd be willing to bet would work excellent. They sell it to the marine industry and they spray it on a boat's hull and it lasts for a long, long time. If you are interested, I can see about having them send you some for a review??
 
David Fermani said:
Dan - HD makes a Rust & Corrosion Protector(in their newest catalog) that is a clear coating that I'd be willing to bet would work excellent. They sell it to the marine industry and they spray it on a boat's hull and it lasts for a long, long time. If you are interested, I can see about having them send you some for a review??



Very interesting, I hadn't noticed those new offerings until you mentioned them. Just emailed Rebecca @ 3D to get MSDS and pricing information on the M1 and AC0
 
What's even more interesting is all the products that 3D manufacturers that isn't offered to the public. For example, they sell over $1 million worth of metal custom polish to a large cymbal manufacturer who end up using it not just in their plants, but they also relabel it to the general public for the upkeep & restoration of their cymbals.



Let me know if you need help getting this info Charlie.
 
David Fermani- That clear stuff sounds perfect for the painted parts of Dan's underneath! I'd use that on those areas and the Eastwood stuff on the black bits.



Dan- I've seen the black undercarriage bits on those turn to rusty-mess after one winter, so [INSERT another spiel about the Eastwood stuff HERE].
 
David Fermani said:
Dan - HD makes a Rust & Corrosion Protector(in their newest catalog) that is a clear coating that I'd be willing to bet would work excellent. They sell it to the marine industry and they spray it on a boat's hull and it lasts for a long, long time. If you are interested, I can see about having them send you some for a review??



Yeah, I'm down for a review, both short and long term. I'm going to grab some of the eastwood stuff as well, some Amsoil MP and possibly Fluidfilm. I'll have a rolling testbed :D



Accumulator said:
David Fermani- That clear stuff sounds perfect for the painted parts of Dan's underneath! I'd use that on those areas and the Eastwood stuff on the black bits.



Dan- I've seen the black undercarriage bits on those turn to rusty-mess after one winter, so [INSERT another spiel about the Eastwood stuff HERE].



It does sound perfect. Accumulator, what other products have you used that you did not like? What do you think of the Valugard stuff?
 
Dan said:
Accumulator, what other products have you used that you did not like? What do you think of the Valugard stuff?



Not really anything I didn't like, just prefer the Eastwood stuff for undercarriage bits that show since it looks nice and black.



I've used the ValuGard aerosol and it's fine, BUT you have to be careful how you apply it lest you get "pockets" due to improper application. Those gaps can harbor moisture and lead to rust. Just the nature of the sorta-thick product coming out of a spray can; their bulk stuff, shot out of a quality undercoating gun, oughta work a lot better as long as you use a pretty high air pressure and a good gun that'll really fog the stuff on nice and thin/uniform (Ketch got me some but I never did get around to spraying it :o ).



In the aerosol category, the Wurth stuff is also good; I've used that on German cars with no issues. But it's another one that dries yellowish-tan so I don't like it much for areas that show. It *was* virtually identical to the OE undercoat though, so it was nice on that M3 where my cleanup was a bit too effective (removed a bit too mich of the OE stuff).



Products from Eastwood and KBS that're made for shooting inside frame rails are good IME, but they're *VERY* thin, the idea being that they seep/wick into seams. Messy messy, and I don't know if they really work all that great or if it's just a case of my not having problems that needed solving anyhow or maybe selling the vehicle before any problems becam apparent.



The Amsoil HD Metal Protector (do you have that, or their "regular" one?) is great for when you don't mind the "filmy oily coating approach"; I use that on under-vehicle sparetire mounting hardware and it holds up great, even after winters and regular cleanings with APC. IF you spray it thinly enough it doesn't look all that awful and it doesn't attract/retain dirt as badly as I'd expected (does do it a bit though).



Wurth's Rost-Off is good for cleaning up surface-rusted bits; it's like a "rust-removing version of WD40/Amsoil". Leaves such a light film that it's not really great for long-term protection, best to retreat with something more durable for ongoing maintenance.



Another odd product for a semi-related issue is Autoglym's Bumper Care of all things! I've used that on surface-rusted bits with good results. It cleans oxidation off of some metal surfaces incredibly well; used it to spruce up the alternators and hood springs on a few vehicles. Does leave a bit of a "slimy mess" behind, but it's not all that awful.



And finally, for matte/flat/satin black bits with a little surface rust, BF's Paint Cleaner stuff, topped with BF's All Finish Paint Protection (is this the same as BFWD? Nobody seems to have a definite yes/no :nixweiss ) can be surprisingly effective; I used that on the rear brake drums of the MPV and it worked so well I've since used it on a lot of underhood items with that sort of black finish.



I'm probably forgetting something, but those are the products that come to mind at present.



Well, that's all I'm thinking of *besides* the Paint Over Rust approaches, of which my least fave by far is POR15. I've done much better (and more consistently better) with the Eastwood, Rust Bullet, and KBS products of that type; sometimes I've managed to do OK on *really* nasty-rusty bits that I thought for sure would be too far gone to stay nice, including door seam rustout that never should've turned out OK (it's only been two years, but zero sign of the rust returning).
 
Why don't you just have the dealer apply the MoPar Master Shield Rust Preventative and the Undercoat that Chrysler has and "warranties" the same as your vehicle.

These two products have ONLY been PROVEN and sold by Chrylser for over 30 years, with some formula changes made to keep up with changing enviormental conditions.

If you have a problem later, Chrysler foots the bill. They carry and honor the "warranty", not some third party, etc.

No playing around with some "marketing" company products.

 
Ron Ketcham said:
Why don't you just have the dealer apply the MoPar Master Shield Rust Preventative and the Undercoat...




*I* wouldn't do it because all those products look unsightly compared to a uniform satin black finish and they're also likely to spray them all over things that don't need rustproofed and/or things that I want to keep polished and LSPed.



On Dan's Jeep, so much of the undercarriage is exposed that I'd want to keep it looking sharp.



I'm not *AT ALL* questioning the efficacy of having that done (IF it's done properly), but for those of us who keep the undercarriages of even our winter beaters fully detailed, it's not always necessary to prevent rustout.



Not like I don't know from winter/salt ;) and I just don't have problems as long as I keep the underneath detailed.



Note I didn't even address the need for a *skilled* person doing the applying at the dealership. I've seen how some guys do it and, well.. I wouldn't want them doing one of my vehicles.
 
A Jeep gets run off road, in harsh winter weather.

Despite your "ways", they are not "real world", when most people purchase a new vehicle, they have a 5 to 7 year loan to pay off and when it comes time to trade or sell, no rust is more important than a shiney undercarriage or some marring of the paint.

Most Chrysler dealers have people on their staff that have been applying the product for years and know what they are doing, of course there are always the "new guy", but any overspray wipes off with some New Car Prep, etc.

George, your "world of cars" is not "real world" for the millions of vehicle owners.

Not every one who works for every dealership is an idiot, maybe in your "world", but not in the real world.

The point to be made is very simple, the Master Shield program and products have been sold and warrantied by Chrysler for decades and applied to several million vehicles. With millions of happy customers being the result and next to nothing warranty claims or Chrysler would have dropped the program decades ago.

Just think about this before you make negative statements regarding proven. tested and approved products that have decades of successful track records.
 
Hey, this is about as close to an :argue as you and I get! But/and I think we're just viewing it differently.



Ron Ketcham said:
..George, your "world of cars" is not "real world" for the millions of vehicle owners..



Heh heh, coming from an Autopian, and being posted here I guess I oughta take that as a compliment :chuckle: But seriously, I figured Dan might be as nutty about this stuff as I am. A Wrangler with a nice black finish on the visible bits where the factory painted it black is really impressive looking.



..Not every one who works for every dealership is an idiot, maybe in your "world", but not in the real world...



No, not everyone; I learned how to do undercoating properly from a guy at a Chrysler dealership (way back in the '70s :eek: ) and he took great pains to educate my teenaged self about how this needs to be done *right* lest problems surface down the road.



[Hey, what's all this talk about "my world" vs. the "real world"? Year-round use in Ohio, utterly filthy/salty between washes..not like my vehicles aren't used mighty hard. And I keep most of my vehicles a long, long time..Even drove the '85 Jag in the winter for a while and it's still showroom and the '93 Audi has been a winter car since new with no problems. Just takes some thought and effort. Well, a lot of effort I guess.]



Just think about this before you make negative statements regarding proven. tested and approved products that have decades of successful track records.[/B]



Eh, my "negative comments" were just about its appearance. IF somebody's gonna keep things even close to "put a mirror under it"-nice then cosmetics might factor in. As we've discussed, if they'd sell the stuff with black pigment mixed in I'd be all about it. [Heck], one of these days I'm gonna fog some of that MOPAR-label batch you sent me in the doors/etc. of the Crown Vics and the Tahoe. When it comes to functionality I think the stuff is great.



For areas that don't show, sure...have somebody apply the ValuGard.



Sorry if I stepped on your tail on this one, and I sure didn't mean to disparage the ValuGard system. But I really do figure that if I can keep my undercarriages nice, and avoid rust despite Ohio winters, then so can somebody else....IF they choose to do so, which might be an awfully big "if".
 
That is my point. You take pride in your rides, and spend a lot of time cleaning, etc.

The average person? NO!

They make the payments, they drive it everyday to get to work, they take it on vacations and maybe, once in a great while either do a quick wash in the drive or put it through a wave a wand, and possibly through a decent tunnel wash so it is vac'ed out and the windows cleaned.

Then, as soon as they are not "up-side down" on value, off to trade it.

Dealers don't really care if there is marring, if the undercarriage is not spotless, they will do their cleanup and a quick polish job, interior and on the lot.

However, if there is visable rust perforation or a front suspension arm is rusted and falling off, the trade in value goes down like the Titanic!


Damned expensive to fix rusted through panels, etc. They know it, they avoid giving more than junk value for rusted out vehicles.

The MoPar, Ford and ValuGard "undercoating' contains a percentage of the "rust inhibitor" and "will not pocket" (seperate from the vehicle body and trap corrosives, dirt, etc and in time actually promote perforation/rust through corrosion) and that is very important.

I got the Ford deal after years of doing the dance, for the rust inhibitor and undercoating due to the main "body/paint" technical shop manager inheriting his mother's Mark VII, that was on the east coast for 10 years. No rust, no corrosion, of course the DuPont clear was peeling off, but NO RUST!

He showed it to me and said it was the only one he had seen (he had been driving it another 10 years in Detroit) that didn't have the trunk edge, the wheel arches, etc rusted through.

I pointed out that on the window was the Master Shield decal (dealer she bought from was a Lincoln/Mercury and Chrysler dealer) and when we looked at the original paper work in the glove box-there was the warranty papers for the Master Shield.

Needless to say, within 30 days, I had the contract for the MotorCraft rust inhibitor and undercoating for required use on all collison repairs, etc.

Sort of like Hyundia, Kia, Mazda, etc requiring it's use on warranty repairs.

So, that is the facts, the average Joe, how he see's it, how the dealer see's it and how the other vehicle manufacturers see it and use it.

Not Eastwood, not Wurth, not any of the others, with one or two small exceptions, where the ValuGard is "one" of recommended products. Most, it's all ValuGard or the manufacturer's private labeled ValuGard.
 
Ron Ketcham- Agree with all of your last post 100% (though AFAIK my Porsche/Audi dealer still uses Wurth). My recommendations were directed specifically at Dan regarding his newly-acquired Wrangler. Now I'm really on the edge of my seat to find out what he goes with and how it works out for him!



Oh, I will say that the vehicles I've sell to dealers don't get much prep before sale (generally they get pulled into the showroom as-delivered and sold that way) and I do benefit from their condition. When I sold the Yukon XLD, the dealer told me how he used the undercarriage's condtion to impress the buyer, who had arrived to take a *different* vehicle but couldn't get over how nice the Yukon was. But yeah...I'm, uhm..."different" and the dealers I sell to (I really don't like to sell to individuals, never mind the wholesale/retail price diff) know me and are always eager to get my cast-offs, having enough other "different" customers. That's if the owner/employees don't buy them for themselves, which happens now and then. I do fully recognize that this is completely different from what happens when anybody else I know disposes of a vehicle (Autopians probably excepted), so I guess this *is* a good example of how "my world" is a little, uhm....atypical.
 
yeah, since Audi, Porsche, etc are German builds, and they are close knit when it comes products, they almost always go with a German supplier, unlike USA and some others.

The Japanese were that way until a decade ago.

The boys at Honda are still, "sorta" that way, if a Jap company can come close to anyone else's product, just "sort of close" and it's from a Jap company, Honda will go with them.

Toyota, Nissan, Mazda, Mitsubisi used to be that way, but they wised up.

The Korean's, were, but realized that they were actually creating a limitation to their brand.

Honda America's favorite old trick was to look at an American made product and tell them it had to go to Japan, with all the "paperwork", including actual formula for approval.

Approval never came back, but in 6 months, there was a Japanese produced product they required that was "exactly" as the sumbitted American product.

Been there, had it done to me at both of my old companies before I wised up.
 
Ron, I appreciate the insight, and if I could find a quality dealer, I'd consider it BUT Accumulator and I agree 110% on this. The dealerships in the DC area are atrocious. I need to snap a picture of the Jeep dealerships tunnel, the blue brushes are literally BLACK. No pride in anything. For my new Jeep, I want the exposed undercarriage to look great. While I don't wash the underside quite as often as Accumulator, I do actually wash, with a mit and brush, everytime I rotate tires, which is usually at the 5k mark. I just HATE watching the rust form. First its the welds. Then it spreads. Then the anywhere rocks and other abrasives hit. I had to sell my Tundra because I couldn't take it anymore. The paint was flawless, the underside was starting to look like crap!
 
Then don't do an undercoating, but can not recommend enough to get the rust inhibitor fogged into all the cavaties, the hem flanges, etc.

Just have them do it and tell them, do not wash it or remove any of the product's overspray.

You can do that with the New Car Prep you can get in a quart (more than enough) to remove any overspray when you get it home.

 
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