Ultimate Paste Wax didn't want to play nice with the PC, until ...

Don

Darth Camaro 12/27/15
... I decided to try spritzing a light mist of Ultimate Quik Detailer on the panel just prior to putting pad to paint and turning on the porter cable.

I finished polishing my car with Ultimate Polish and I decided to use the cut-down finishing pad to apply the Ultimate Paste Wax. But no matter how much wax I applied to the pad, it didn't want to spread on the paint. I know that it's supposed to be applied thin, but it just wouldn't transfer from the pad onto the paint. So that's when I decided to used the UQD. Once I did that, the Ultimate Paste applied like butter and spread forever in a nice thin layer. Instead of doing the whole car at once I just applied and removed the wax panel by panel and it came off like a dream. Now a few hours later, the color has deepened and the finish looks better than it ever has ... and no I still can't access a camera
 
Now in my recollection, you want a soft pad (like gray) and a speed of like 2 on the PC - what did you use?
 
Now in my recollection, you want a soft pad (like gray) and a speed of like 2 on the PC - what did you use?


Lake Country black pad on a '1.' It is a variable contact pad that is for finishing, I don't believe they make it anymore, maybe I should get a new finishing pad, although this one is in good shape (rarely used and only for wax application).
 
Lake Country black pad on a '1.' It is a variable contact pad that is for finishing, I don't believe they make it anymore, maybe I should get a new finishing pad, although this one is in good shape (rarely used and only for wax application).

Whatever works well. To a point, I think there's more marketing than real necessity in all these different foam pad densities. This is especially true when you hear success stories of say a single orange (fairly dense) pad used for compound, polish AND 'wax'.
I'm just 'thinking out loud' that just maybe the results can be adjusted more by the product and the process than the density of the foam pad.
 
Noting that I've never used the UPW, I run the polisher a lot faster than "1" when applying paste waxes.

The UQD helping doesn't surprise me, I've used Griot's SpeedShine and the old EF Clear Pearl when machine-applying M16.

Regarding the "one pad for everything", and leaving stupid-soft paint out of the discussion, we got by just fine with that approach for many, many years. I still prefer to use a slightly firmer, more open pad when applying paste waxes and even with some thicker liquids like 845. IMO, as long as the pad doesn't have any cut in-and-of itself, it won't be a problem.

I haven't tried the newest, and thus presumably different, Griot's orange pad, but the *OLD* GG Orange was a great do-anything pad. Same with the green Cyclo pads (all they had for ages), which were, IIRC, the same as the pads sold under the Edge brandname.
 
Plan on doing it again soon - that wax is easy on & off but lasts only 5- 6 weeks in my experience.

I don't know, I left mine untouched for 7 months and at the end, the car still looked really good and the water did slightly bead/sheet on the 2nd wash of the summer
 
I have seen consistent 5-6 months with just ULW by itself. On my personal daily driver I saw 8 months out of ULW/M26 combo with the once a month D156 refresher. On my dad's car that same combo got about 6-7 months.
 
I wonder if this UPW application method of using a detailer spray would work using Meg's M34 Final Inspection?

I gotta ask (and hi-jack this thread), is UPW better than Meg's Professional M21 Synthetic Wax (or its Consumer version NXT 2.0) and M26 Yellow Wax??
 
I wonder if this UPW application method of using a detailer spray would work using Meg's M34 Final Inspection?

I wouldn't try that myself, I've had M34 kill off LSPs that were barely hanging on, so I don't really think of it as an LSP-compatible QD and IMO that compatibility is what you want for this.
 
I wouldn't try that myself, I've had M34 kill off LSPs that were barely hanging on, so I don't really think of it as an LSP-compatible QD and IMO that compatibility is what you want for this.


Which is why I used UQD, if I hadn't had that, I wouldn't have tried it. You would think that UQD and Ult Paste are compatible.
 
I don't know, I left mine untouched for 7 months and at the end, the car still looked really good and the water did slightly bead/sheet on the 2nd wash of the summer

Oh man, if you keep talkin like that yer gonna get booted outta the Autopian OCD Club! - lol
 
Oh man, if you keep talkin like that yer gonna get booted outta the Autopian OCD Club! - lol


Does it make a difference that I was DYING to do ANYTHING detailing related? I even dreamt about polishes and waxing!
 
Does it make a difference that I was DYING to do ANYTHING detailing related? I even dreamt about polishes and waxing!

Well then okay (sounds like DT's! [Detailer Tremors]) ....I guess you'll skate by! ^_^
 
I wonder if this UPW application method of using a detailer spray would work using Meg's M34 Final Inspection?

I gotta ask (and hi-jack this thread), is UPW better than Meg's Professional M21 Synthetic Wax (or its Consumer version NXT 2.0) and M26 Yellow Wax??

I have never used any QD in applying ultimate wax. I have never had any streaking issues with the liquid version either. In regards to your question about UW vs M21. They are both great sealants. It's not whether one is better than the other. UW will last longer than M21. There is no professional equivalent to UW. M21 and NXT are closely related. M21 gives a little more candy coated look where as UW will tend to darken paint more. M26 is a carnauba wax.

I wouldn't try that myself, I've had M34 kill off LSPs that were barely hanging on, so I don't really think of it as an LSP-compatible QD and IMO that compatibility is what you want for this.

I would not either. It works fine as a stand alone QD after one's LSP has properly cured as I have used it with UW, M21 and M26 with no issues after they have all cured. But I do prefer M135 and D156 with either LSP.
 
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