jthad said:
I'm going to attempt my first detail this weekend on a black 2005 camry.
Great! -- 3 yrs old,.. black, great color for results (before and after) -- The bad is all the marring/swirls show. So you basically have to get most out (paint doesn't hide anything) =)
Please critique and advise on the process:
1. 2 bucket wash system with meguiars gold class (grit guard in rinse bucket?)
Sounds fine, either way you go here will be fine. You don't have to be that picky on the wash, esp. since you are about to polish it. You add a few more swirls isn't going to make or break your polish, you know? You are just aiming for a clean vehicle to work with here.
Important part -- Use ample quick detailer while claying,.. don't hesitate to spend more time on parts of the car that keep picking up contaminate on the clay. Kneed the bar often.
Avg time people clay a vehicle is 45mins to 2 hours. I spent 3ish hours on my first clay , but second time around would be 1 to 1.5. Some say they do it from start to finish in 30 minutes. So completely up to you and how fast you want to go, and condition of vehicle.
3. Polish using UDM with Men IP and Men FPII
(Advise on speed. I have LCorange, white, blue, and grey. All 5.5in)
With Men IP blot it on the area you work on, or smear it. -- Then mix it completely in the area you are working at speed 3.
Move between speed 5 and 6 for polishing. I used 5 to 5.5 while polishing, and did a pressureless last pass with 6 speed. However next time I think I am going to spread with 3 (real quick) as normal, then go straight to 6 while polishing. It is just going to break down quicker at 6. Might want to play at 5 if this is your first time , for 30minutes or so.. you will get the hang of it quickly and feel comfortable.
I would use the Orange and Men IP, at speed 5-6. Work ~5 minutes per area (at least). Or until polish has broken down. Don't ever dry polish just because you haven't met the time 'limit' per se. Then wipe down with MF, and test your results.
Others will use a less agressive pad, but you asked opinions and that is my opinion. I just used XMT #3 with orange on UDM.
With the final polish I'd do the same method just switch to your finishing pad. Perhaps keep speed 4-5 on the finish, definitely don't use the orange for it though =)
4. seal with Meg NXT 2.0
Can wheels, stock aluminum rims, be sealed with NXT 2.0?
Good choice on seal, almost an identical setup to what I just did.. same machine, different polish, same sealant.
You can use your grey pad to apply the wax if you want, but I found the pad absorbed alot of the liquid 2.0 -- So I could just apply it by hand, unless you don't mind using alot of the NXT 2.0. The polisher will spread it out thinner, but it wasn't faster for me because of having to reapply to the pad. Though my lighting wasn't the best. I think with a little practice I could get it to be much faster than hand application, I just know how much NXT 2.0 I used with hand applicator and the pad I was using LLC grey 6.5 was soaking it up like a sponge. (It is virtually a sponge anyhow) =)
The rims, yes, absolutely can be sealed with NXT 2.0 -- I do this everytime. I clean them, before.. then make sure they are dry, wipe down with rag. Then apply NXT after I do the body, and let it set for a little while then remove. Polish wheels just as you would the car. Works great.
Have fun, be patient, and you'll enjoy your results.
Take your time on the polishing, and inspect your first section well, to see how you might need to adjust things for the rest of the car. If the first section is marred and you get it perfect -- say a 1x1 .. perfected with orange at 5 speed with UDM then go to town on rest of car,.. if it still leaves some marring behind, turn up speed a little.. see what it takes to get it 95% or 100% perfected. Then apply that technique to rest of car.
