trying to correct a paint guys inability to do good job

Z

Zombiesoldier

New member
ok let me first say its been about 20 years since i touched a polisher, so please bear with me. 6k so I bought my kid a 2000 Honda Prelude for his first car. The hood an bumper was good and messed up by stone chips and sand. We took a weekend and stripped the hood down and primed it, and sent the hood and bumper together to be repainted using base coat/clear coat. The parts came back shot with single stage urethane and with such a horrible finish, that words cannot describe my anger. needless to say the guy, even though he was somehow proud of his work, didnt charge me except for materials. the finish is very orange peeled and inconsistant, with splatter marks on it. So anyways I am set to try to do some paint correction before I throw in the towel and paint it myself. I want to try wet sanding it out with 1500 and then 2000 grit, and I am looking at the Porter Cable 7424XP kit from Chemical guys. It is this kit:

PORTER CABLE LAKE COUTRY CCS PADS

and using their All in 1 polish shine seal. Chemical Guys GAP_106_16 - All In One Polish + Shine + Sealant (16 oz)

the kit and that polish-shine-seal is what a buddy recommended to get the paint on those parts looking good, but I wanted to hear what you guys had to say about it... recommend to me what you would use instead
 
Your plan to try and fix the SS paint is a decent start. However I would watch some uTube vids on the subject of wet sanding to refresh your memory..also the PC is a great tool but for removing wet sanding marks your going to need a rotary buffer with a cutting pad. I prefer wool for this but there are plenty of foam pads that will do the job.

I've not used the CG AIO that you posted, but AIO is all in one and I wouldn't be using that to start in removing sand marks..I would start with a more aggressive polish then change that to less aggressive with lighter cut pad.

However I will let others chime in on the CG that have used it
 
Zombiesoldier said:
well, recommend away on what you would use! All knowledge and opinions are welcome!
Click to expand...

My personal preference is Poorboys World SSR 2.5 with wool or foam cutting pad using a rotary to start. Then SSR1 as a secondary polishing using the rotary with a polishing pad. I would finish with PW polish with sealant as a finial polishing stage using a polishing pad either rotary or PC . If you've wet sanded that should level the paint pretty well
 
Poorboys World (PW) sorry lots of acronyms used here, I try not to...there is a sticky that has a whole list of them..I'll see if I can find the link for you
 
As far as the wet sanding goes; I would continue and finish with 2500 to 3000 grit paper before I begin the buffing process. You will have lighter more shallow scratches to remove than with the 2000 grit and it will take less time and effort to remove them with the buffer.
 
Random Thoughts....


That kit wouldn't work too well because it uses 5.5 inch pads, which are going to limit your access on some areas of the bumper.

If you plan on using a DA polisher to remove sanding marks, make sure to use a high-quality grade of sandpaper, like Meguiar's Unigrit. Not only can you go up to a finer, 3000 grade sand scratch, but it will leave a much more uniform surface, which will be easier to polish out.

You will need 4 inch pads at the largest, as well as a pretty good leveling compound. Wolfgang Uber Compound in combination with a Meguiars DA Microfiber Cutting Pads is going to give you serious corrective ability on a DA. If you do a good job sanding, this will have no problem removing 3000 grade marks.

After compounding, switch to a Lake Country 4-inch orange pad and repolish the areas again with Wolfgang Uber Compond.

Then switch to a Lake County 4-inch white pad, and use Wolfgang Finishing Glaze as the last step.
 
Also, keep in mind, that this is a pretty serious job, even for experienced guys, so understand the risks (ruined paint) before starting.
 
thank you and I understand the risk. That's why I am trying this, and at worst case scenario, repainting. I can paint, but had someone else do it do to lack of time.
 
Just to keep in mind, fresh paint may dry in hours, but the curing process can take up to 30 days. In which time the solvents used to thin the paint to be sprayed will evaporate out of the paint. Adding a wax or sealant to a finish that has not fully cured will trap these solvents in the paint and cause the paint to fail. Might want to consider this before using an AIO product for your LSP.
 
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