trouble starting car, clicking sounds

R

rustychevy

New member
When I crank a cold engine it does not start and I hear a few clicking sounds. It takes another attempt or two before the engine starts. On occasion a warm engine needs a second crank. What is the cause?
I drive a 1984 Chevy Caprice Classic.
 
I would check battery and connections. My car had a lose battery cable one time and did that. Then maybe starter.
 
I'd check all connections. Then if it's doing the same thing have the battery and alternator tested at the parts store.
 
How long is a starter expected to last? I have nothing in my bills for that, but the alternator was replaced August 31, 2004.
 
Since it *does* start up normally now and then...

First I'd check the battery cables at the battery- tight, free of corrosion? Inspect the cables while you're at it. Sometimes the cables go bad even though they look OK on the outside.

Then I'd look at the starter selenoid and its wiring connections.

Starters can last a long, long time...or they can die tomorrow. But again, that "it eventually starts OK" makes me think it's a matter of the starter getting adequate/inadequate power *at times* and that makes me think "connections and wiring".
 
Batteries are funny things - in practice they *should* last a few years. But sometimes die early depending on how often & how far then car is driven, temperature extremes, or sometimes you just get a bad one. Good luck!
 
We have had an abundance of rain in the last few weeks. Can dampness under the hood be a factor or is this just coincidence?
 
I agree with Accumulator. GM cars from that era had side terminal batteries, which were excellent, but had skinny battery cables, both positive and negative and attached the ground cable to the alternator bracket, rather than the engine block itself. My El Camino got traded in back in 1993 because of slow starting concerns nobody could find. The ground cable was very warm when cranking, a sign of high resistance. I replaced the ground cable with a thicker one from a GM truck, cleaned everything well, both positive and grounds and bolted the cable directly to the engine block. It's been OK for the last 21 years, thru 3 or 4 batteries, so I think it's fixed.

Bill
 
rustychevy- Yes indeed the dampness can do that. Does make me think it just may be the cables/terminals rather than just the connection at the battery, but I'd clean/tighten/grease the battery connections first anyhow. Five minutes and practically zero cost...and hey, it's just the first thing you try under conditions like you've described on a vehicle like yours.

When my Tahoe acted up a few times when starting it was the cable connection(s) at the battery. GM sidemount battery just like yours...I can almost remember which size wrench it takes (use a ratcheting one to make it easy).

Billy Jack- "Yeah, good idea if you want to do it right" on upgrading cables (do they still call it "the big 3 upgrade"?), though I haven't done it to the Tahoe or the current Crown Vic (yet ;) ). Eh, I've gotta admit I'm not a huge fan of the GM sidemount batteries, which I think all my GMs have had.
 
Accumulator said:
Since it *does* start up normally now and then...

First I'd check the battery cables at the battery- tight, free of corrosion? Inspect the cables while you're at it. Sometimes the cables go bad even though they look OK on the outside.

Then I'd look at the starter selenoid and its wiring connections.

Starters can last a long, long time...or they can die tomorrow. But again, that "it eventually starts OK" makes me think it's a matter of the starter getting adequate/inadequate power *at times* and that makes me think "connections and wiring".
Click to expand...

What he said, Batteries do not come back to life on the 2nd or 3rd try. When they are dead their dead.

Dave
 
I had the exact same symptoms and it was the starter motor. That would be the place where I would start debugging. The low current circuit from the key switch energizes the solanoid. The also acts as a switch for the high current needed to by the starter to turn the engine. This became corroded over time and use. I took it apart and was able to clean and repair it, but I was a poor kid at the time, today I would get a nice shiny new motor.
 
Thanks for the help. One more question should do it. Along with the Die Hard battery, which battery do you all suggest for a "big" car like an 84 Chevy?
 
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