Touch-Up Work On Black Porsche Cayenne

Anthony O.

New member
Had a client drop a computer case on his black Cayenne the other day so when he brought it into get serviced at Porsche he asked if I could do something about the scratch.



After being serviced I washed the Cayenne, wiped that area down with alcohol and filled the area with Porsche black touch-up paint. I am using a new product called "Touch Up Magic" and how it works is pretty cool. You fill the scratch, let it dry to the touch then pour some of the Touch Up Magic onto a towel then rub it over the blob of touch up paint. It will remove the excess paint but leave the paint that fills the scratch.



Here is a picture of the scratch before any work is done.....



(By the way, all the marring and crap on the Porsche are not from me! He takes it to a car wash in between his bi-monthly detail work....why I have no idea :confused: )



lncescratch5dd.jpg






You then fill in the scratch with touch up paint. You don't want to just slop the paint in there but you also don't need to be so precise either. I like to scrap off the excess paint until there is just enough paint left on the brush that it can flow into the crack.



I also carry with me a few red sable fine and very fine paint brushes. Just make sure you clean them well afterwards as they aren't cheap.



Here is a picture with the touch up paint. I only had 3 slots left on my camera so I don't have any more picture of the work in progress. So I'll try and explain the process as best I can.



touchup9nk.jpg






After this dried for about 15 minutes I then applied the Touch Up Magic with a MF towel and removed the excess touch up paint. I repeated this step about 3 times. Each time lightly refilling the scratch with paint until I built up an amount almost equal with the paint. The initial scratch was pretty deep.



After the 3rd fill and then removal of excess paint I then applied the clear. Here again I applied several light coats and in between each application I used the product to remove the excess.



Finally I wetsanded the surrounding area with 3000 grit paper, so as to blend it all in, then buffed the area out with my rotary and OCP. I finished with my Cyclo, OCP and a spritz of OCW.



Here are the results.





fnshtouchup4ah.jpg






Under my halogen lighting you can see the repair area but with the lights off the owner had a hard time finding the repair area. The most noticable thing is that the paint color of the touch up paint is not an exact match. So it's not a perfect fix but it beats having the whole fender repainted and if you're a pro detailer this type of touch up work can get you a few extra bucks in your pocket.



Take care,

Anthony
 
Anthony, very nice work.



Do you have a link for this touch-up product?



How much did you charge for this procedure?
 
Sounds intriguing Anthony, but what differences and advantages does Touch Up Magic have over Langka or the equivalent Mother's kit? Many still encounter a bit of a learning curve on jobs like these.
 
GSRstilez said:
Anthony, very nice work.



Do you have a link for this touch-up product?



How much did you charge for this procedure?



TOL sent me the product to try out.



Fir the wash and repair I charged $85



Anthony
 
Bill D said:
Sounds intriguing Anthony, but what differences and advantages does Touch Up Magic have over Langka or the equivalent Mother's kit? Many still encounter a bit of a learning curve on jobs like these.



I have never used the Langka system or th eone from Mother's so I can comment as far as comparison.



I like to use the touch-up pens they sell over the dealer touch up stuff. The colors are an alomost exact match. I did the front end of a MB with hundreds of little chips and it came out very nice. You can see a difference in color in the sun but in the shade you can't tell.



So with any touch-up repair system color match is key.



Anthony
 
Is the use of clear necessary? I read the tutorial on this website about touching up rock chips, and it stated that applying clear isn't needed.



Btw, I have the Langka system, and from Anthony's directions, it seems as though this product system is easier to use. The Langka has more steps to it.
 
Bioman said:
Is the use of clear necessary? I read the tutorial on this website about touching up rock chips, and it stated that applying clear isn't needed.



Btw, I have the Langka system, and from Anthony's directions, it seems as though this product system is easier to use. The Langka has more steps to it.



You don't need to use the clear, it's just that I had never used the clear before with this product so I wanted to see how it worked.



I think using the clear though helped it blend it better.



Take care,

Anthony
 
So, you use the factory touch up paint, allow to slightly harden, and then go over with this Touch Up Magic?



Don't you have to wait for the paint to truly harden after you use the Touch Up Magic BEFORE you take a polish and wax to it??
 
Spilchy said:
So, you use the factory touch up paint, allow to slightly harden, and then go over with this Touch Up Magic?



Don't you have to wait for the paint to truly harden after you use the Touch Up Magic BEFORE you take a polish and wax to it??





You can allow it to dry for up to several hours and it will still work BUT you need to use alot more muscle.



Touch-up paint doesn't need to cure like OEM paint because it air cures and using so little alows it to dry quickly, especially under the halogen lamps or a heat gun.



The Touch Up Magic will remove a slight amount of paint that fills the scratch but this is why its best done in layers, light layers. I was very skeptical when it was first sent to me but I used it on some touch-up paint that was weeks old and it worked great but man it was a chore for sure!!



So it's best to wait about 15 or 20 minutes then remove excess. There should be no problem with polish and wax as long as the wax has no solvents.



Anthony
 
Anthony that is amazing! How deep of a scratch could you repair with that method? What about a key mark? I have key marks that go through my clear coat, but I think there is some base coat still underneath.
 
Reflections said:
Anthony that is amazing! How deep of a scratch could you repair with that method? What about a key mark? I have key marks that go through my clear coat, but I think there is some base coat still underneath.



This particular scratch went thru the clear down to primer. I would guess that with patience you could build a scratch up from bare metal and then finish out. As long as it's not a lage scratch as then it may be best to get it repainted.



Thanks :)



Anthony
 
They sold this stuff at the parts counter @ my MB dealership. From what I was told, it's about the same thing as Langka-just a toned down thinner.
 
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