Topping Menzerna FMJ with a carnuba?

David Fermani

David Fermani

Forza Auto Salon
Has anyone ever had luck topping Menzerna FMJ sealant with a carnuba? Would there be a benefit in regards to improving the looks by layering a carnuba over it?
 
Ah C'mon Grouse! Share the knowledge, I'm on the fence - looking at getting FMJ, especially since CMA has it on sale and cheap shipping. I have plenty of waxes, but from what some folks say, 2 coats of FMJ looks fine enough.
 
All the items mentioned were fully used at least a 16 oz bottle over as many cars as that would cover. Most ranging from 3/4 -1.5 oz per application depending on the product and how it was used.



Lets see i may have more exposure than most.

On and off 1-5 1 being a pain 5 being super easy or no wiping off

Durability 1-5 is 1 month to 5 months of daily driver use in seattles winter.

Correction rated 1-3. 1 can remove wipe marring, 2 can remove light buffer trails, 3 would be a final polish correction ability.



Klasse twins. Used together , The on is easy the off is a biatch 1 out of 5 comparatively. durability is a 3 out of 5 correction 1



FMJ On and off is 4 out of 5 durability is a 2.5 out 5 correction 0



PB ex-p On and off is a 3.5 out of 5, Durability is a 2.5 out of 5 correction 0



Pb ex on and off is 3.5 out of 5 durability is a 2.5 out of 5 correction is 0



CG jet seal on and off is 3.5, durability is 2.5 out of 5 correction 0



Opti-seal on and off is a 5 out of 5, durability is a 2.5-3 (still testing) correction 0



JW prime/jett combo. On and off is a 2 out of 5 durability is a 4 out of 5 correction 1



CG 50/50 on is a 3.5 out of 5 and durability is 2.5-3 out of 5 correction 0



Natty's blue red white on and off is a 2.5 out of 5 and durability is a 2.5-3 out of 5 correction 0



Swiss wax on is a 1.5 and durability is a 1.5-2 Correction 0



Apo 60 on and off is a 2.5 (rotary lots of sling with correction capabilities) durability is 2 Correction capabilities is a 2 out of 3



Einszet Metalic polish and wax on and off is a 3.5 out of 5 (machine, rotary, pc, flex) Durability is a 2 correction is a 1.5



Einszett glanz wax On and off is a 3.5 (have to work in smaller sections not whole car) Durability is about a 4, correction is 0
 
My personal favorite sealant is 1z glanz wax. it is the easiest on and off when factored into cost, durability, looks and single layer.



It beat out my previous favorite of fmj x2 cg 50/50, and jw prime and acryllic jett topped with cg 50/50 or swiss wax concourso.
 
they say you can top fmj with a wax, but can't top a wax with fmj. :\



So I usually put on a few layers of FMJ on, then wax it a few times...then when the time comes I clay it all, strip it and start fresh...I only do that once a year in the fall to get rid of all the summertime goo that seems to accumulate...tar and sap, etc.
 
D&D Auto Detail said:
I dont like to top a sealant with any wax, nor do I see any benefit.
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To me it seems that fmj gives a shimmer efect and not a deep glow.I have switched over to pinnacle souveran paste wax as it def gives the extra pop that i like to see.
 
D&D Auto Detail said:
I dont like to top a sealant with any wax, nor do I see any benefit.
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For 1, wax makes the finish feel softer. 2nd, it adds a different look. 3rd, it beads water differently. If those things don't make much of a difference to you, keep doing the thing you normally do.
 
Thanks to Brandon1, I have a can of pinnacle souveran - and after years of saying "I don't see how it could make that much difference - I ain't spending yada yada.." I tried it and I was WRONG! It really does look that good. Even my wife , who never gets excited about any product I've used, came out and took pictures. Then she asked me to do her van with PS. It's so easy to use, I'd rather buy another can than get Natty's free for life. Yeah, not a fan of the Natty.
 
David Fermani said:
For 1, wax makes the finish feel softer. 2nd, it adds a different look. 3rd, it beads water differently. If those things don't make much of a difference to you, keep doing the thing you normally do.
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Geez, that was a little harsh. I was just expressing an opinion. From what Ive seen, applying a wax over a sealant greatly reduces the slickness of the paint, and Ive had instances where it actually dulls the paint. Ive tried applying different waxes over Wolfgang and JS. One of which was applying Oro over JS where it actually dulled the paint. Im also confused as to how a wax can give paint more depth when its applied over a sealant which is creating a barrier between the paint and the environment?



Therefore, Ive found it better to use only a sealant or wax.
 
D&D Auto Detail said:
Geez, that was a little harsh. I was just expressing an opinion. From what Ive seen, applying a wax over a sealant greatly reduces the slickness of the paint, and Ive had instances where it actually dulls the paint. Ive tried applying different waxes over Wolfgang and JS. One of which was applying Oro over JS where it actually dulled the paint. Im also confused as to how a wax can give paint more depth when its applied over a sealant which is creating a barrier between the paint and the environment?



Therefore, Ive found it better to use only a sealant or wax.
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Seems like a simple opinion to me. Not harsh at all. I am not into nubas anymore at all, but the reply seems pretty normal. He may be wrong in yours and my opinion this time, but it was a reasonable and fair reply in my book.



IMO several modern sealants have aproached and surpased nubas soft feel, beading abilities, and most especially durability. However the depth and pop of a really nice nuba on a really well prepped and sealed paint job is hard to beat.
 
SpoiledMan said:
It needs to be topped with something so that it'll last more than 4 weeks..........:)
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Polycharge it. I put it on a M6 not to long ago. After about 6 weeks it was still beading nicely.
 
D&D Auto Detail said:
Geez, that was a little harsh. I was just expressing an opinion.
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Sorry. I must have come across wrong. I meant no harm or offense. I was just being direct without an long explanation. :sadpace:



Basically, if you don't see value in changing your routine, thats totally fine. Going with just a sealant is helping too. I've used nothing buy nubas until I moved to Florida. Here, they don't last (heat), but I like their look (wet). That's why I strickly use atleast a sealant. But, I also see greater benefits when I layer a cuba over it. That's all really. :xyxthumbs
 
agree with Spoiledman, after 3-4 weeks FMJ water beads look more like broken egg yokes than beads. FMJ goes on easy, comes off even easier but, IMHO, it just doesn\'t deliver the durability I expected. For those reasons I\'ll continue to use it until it\'s gone but I\'ll spend my sealant $$$ elsewhere in the future.



I usually use Klasse AIO, then a couple layers of FMJ or SG (which ever catches my eye first), and then top it with 2-3 layers of 476S and I know I\'m good for the winter. It\'s been months since I did my winter prep & I still have water beading that looks like I used Vaseline for an LSP.
 
David..I've used FMJ topped with collinite 476s with good results. Great durability and good look..here's a 7 year old 7 series that was finished with that combo:

06-09-200737.jpg
 
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