To Rinse or not to rinse

Klasse does not need a wax topper. If you put on about 3 coats of SG your car will have very good protection. I tried Blitz, Souveran & Paste Glaz.



Pinnacle gave more depth and was so easy to use. Blitz attracted so much dust it made my car look grey the next day. I like many others use a wax topper just to see how it would look.



A wax topper does not offer the same protection as Klasse.
 
I have a Souveran topper on 1 coat AIO and 3 coats SG. The difference that I see is that the Klasse alone looked like the car has been dipped in glass (very nice). Add the wax and to me, it looks almost buttery....much softer and more depth (nicer).



I did just get some Blitz to try, but am concerned with the dust problem. I live in S. Florida where it stays pretty humid year round and I don't think that it would be much of a problem. Just about everyone that talks about wax, talks about Blitz and Souveran. The Souveran is beautiful, but apparently not as durable as Blitz. I would like to know just how much more durable... It certainly is less expensive!! :eek:



H
 
<blockquote class='ipsBlockquote' >

<em class='bbc'>Originally posted by waxman [/i]
<strong class='bbc'>I am not a Zainoman yet. Just all this debate about Klasse verse Zaino is getting out of hand. I like Klasse personally. I just figured I will join the other side instead of fighting a losing battle with Klasse. [/b]</blockquote>
Hehe. I agree with the K vs. Z debate being silly & out of hand...

How about polymerman! Sounds like a superhero....

:D


blue skies,
Andy
 
I was viewing a DVD that's published by a reputable detail supplier and in the car wash section, he recommended that you wash the entire car before rinsing. His implication was that the water will reactivate the soap and rinse clean. He suggested that this is better than allowing water to dry on the surface and cause spots.

Yesterday was 40 degrees so I decided to wash my vehicle inside the warm (50 degree) garage and try out the soap and his technique.

I wasn't surprised that the soap left spots and streaks and had to be removed using my BF High Gloss Spray.

Needless to say, don't believe everything that's taught, even if they are declared the experts on car care.
 
For a conventional bucket wash, I will usually:

  • wash the top and glass, then rinse
  • hood, front fenders, rinse
  • trunk, rear fenders, rinse
  • doors, rinse
  • wheels, tires, rinse
  • wheelwells, rinse
  • re-rinse the whole car

If I don't rinse intermittently, it will leave dried soap residue. (depends on temp and humidity), but generally I will follow the steps above.

Also, when you rinse, it helps to use the "flooding" method. Reduces water spotting.
 
I just noticed that Bunky had started a thread on this concept too.

Sorry.

Please delete this one if you wish, we don't need two to discover this method doesn't work. At least for me it didn't.
 
Given the low humidity in Denver (75% of the time), everything dries quickly. I find dried soap difficult to remove, especially from the windows so I wash a section, starting with the roof, rinse well then use a blower and finally a MF cloth to dry the section...then on to another section.

It is a given that I need to redry the overspray on completed sections (even when using the flood method), especially the glass, but that's the price I pay to live in Colorado!

Regards,
GEWB
 
i use bill's method of washing and rinsing a section at a time, but i also realized that it was the hard water causing spots. so i purchased a water de-ionizer the solved all my water spot problems....
 
glfahlc said:
i use bill's method of washing and rinsing a section at a time, but i also realized that it was the hard water causing spots. so i purchased a water de-ionizer the solved all my water spot problems....
Click to expand...

I have a whole house water softener and that eliminated 99% of any water spot issues for me.
 
Bunky said:
I have a whole house water softener and that eliminated 99% of any water spot issues for me.
Click to expand...

Which brings up an interesting question... back in the day dear old Dad had a hopped up black VW bug that was his pride and joy. It was the car that taught me the joys of the old paste Simoniz that welded itself to the finish :scared:

Dad was real proud when he plumbed in a whole house water softener. I wasn't wild about it because the water was so soft you couldn't seem to rinse the soap off in the shower. It sure made the soap more effective though!

First time Dad washed the Bug right after a Simoniz job he was flabbergasted. Not a bead to be found! So he rewaxed. Next time he washed same thing, after latherin' it up and rinsing there wasn't a bead to be found. After a little research he announced he'd learned soft water stripped the wax by virtue of increasing the effectiveness of the detergent. (DuPont powdered car wash in the silver canister, IIRC) So he replumbed the outside faucet to bypass the soft water supply and was rewarded with unsoftened water and Simoniz that now stayed put.

This is brought to mind when someone says they use softened water to wash cars. So what's anyone else's experience? Does soft water contribute to stripping wax?


TL
 
Luster said:
Yeah, I used to do it that way, but I found that I was wiping off dried soap with my drying towel, so I switched to intermittent rinsing.
Click to expand...

I'm the same way, I'll rinse after each panel I wash. When I am all done that's when I actually flood rinse. I found the same thing though with just a flood rinse with out rinsing with pressure after each panel. Soap was still everywhere and I was just drying that and I was left with streaking and spots especially the windows if you don't rinse the right after soaping.
 
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