Time to clay?

pogo123 said:
Well, this question got me thinking, and I suspected that the small amount of soap used would not be enough to change the PH, so I tried an experiment. Although I didn't have any Dawn, I had three different car washes and two different dish soaps.

The Products:
My Tap Water - PH = 7.2
Poorboys SSS - Says is PH neutral on bottle - mixed per directions PH = 7.0
Optimum Car Wash - Doesn't mention PH - mixed per directions PH = 6.7
Finish Kare Wash/Wax - Doesn't mention PH - mixed per directions PH = 7.0
Palmolive Dish Soap - Doesn't mention PH - no directions 1oz/gal PH = 6.6
Cascade Dishwasher Soap-Doesn't mention PH-no directions 1oz/gal PH = 8.0

So it appears that the soap does change the PH of the water but it's hard to tell by how much since my water is close to neutral to start with. I wish I had some Dawn to try just to see if it is as caustic as the Cascade is. Besides the PH thing, another disadvantage to dish soap is it's grease and oil cutting ability which will tend to dry out rubber door seals and trim.

This experiment proves two things:
1 - I have too much time on my hands!
2 - My wife now thinks I'm craizer then she thought before!

LOL, 1 & 2.

Thank's pogo123.
 
Ok, so after all of that discussion, I guess I should Wash, then clay, then wash again? then polish, then wax. Does that sound right?
 
Don't need to wash twice.
If there are streaks, you need to polish by hand (KAIO or a similar chemical polish or paint cleaner), or by machine.

Two ways to clay:
1. While washing. Soap a panel, clay while soapy. Keep the car wet and move quickly. NOt recommended for a first time.
2. a. Wash car.
b. Dry car.
c. Use a Quick Detail Spray (I cut by half with water), spray an area (1/4 hood; half panel, etc., not too big), move the clay back and forth across the surface. Add extra spray if it grabs at all.
d. Wipe the panel with a mf--try not to let the clay lube drip down the side of the car.
e. Only use one side of the clay. Turn the clay dirty side in by folding it and keep one clean side under your hand.
f. Repeat or spot clay if necessary.


PS: It's always time to clay.
 
yup you could go
1wash with NXT wash
2clay
3wash with NXt Wash again
4. Dry the car
5. Deep crystal step #1
6.Deep Crystal Step #2
7. I guess you use PBs stuff which i am not familiar with
or you could do a 1 step like Meguiar's colourX or A12/Cleaner Wax
 
PEI Detail said:
I just don't see the need to wash again.


Neither do I. As long as you wipe up the majority of the excess spray the polishing will take care of the rest.
 
Elmacho said:
I have never used a clay bar on my current car or any previous cars, only because I never knew about it. Anyway, I just bought a brand new car and have had it for a week. I just washed it, polished it, then waxed it today. My question is, since it's a new car is it necessary to use a clay bar on it yet? And if not, how long would you wait until you clayed a new car?

You COULD clay the car -- but yeah, if time and effort are important, then you could get away with it. If you've been driving it only a few weeks, very little grime/particles should be in the paint and clearcoat.

But seal it up right away. The longer you go, the more you want to clay the car.

Remember: claying a new car is pretty easy. You're not gonna pick up lots of dirt and tar. When I clayed my car when it was new, took like 30 minutes, tops. Today, it takes me well over an hour.

In short, it's not NECESSARY but it won't hurt. But the important thing is to get some sealant layers on the car.

Also, if you use KLASSE AIO that would do alot of the cleaning action that claying would do. So use AIO if you don't clay.
 
HondaMan said:
In short, it's not NECESSARY but it won't hurt. But the important thing is to get some sealant layers on the car.

Also, if you use KLASSE AIO that would do alot of the cleaning action that claying would do. So use AIO if you don't clay.

I disagree with these 2 statements. Claying a new car is very important so the 'stuff' on the paint from rail dust and etc. needs to come off before it causes damage to the paint.

I don't think that any product, other than clay, does the same cleaning action of it. AIO won't pick up the contaniments that will damage the paint in the future. I clay everything that I work on, regardless if they want me to because it leaves the paint smooth and clean.
 
budman3 said:
I clay everything that I work on, regardless if they want me to because it leaves the paint smooth and clean.

Agreed. For the short time it takes and the minimal amount of effort involved, I wouldn't skip it.
 
JaredPointer said:
Agreed. For the short time it takes and the minimal amount of effort involved, I wouldn't skip it.

I'll be doing my first clay job on my 5 week old VW GTI-Red-----it's sounds like it's well worth it, even though the paint "looks" pristine. I'm not gonna skimp to save an hour. I haven't decided if I'm going to use Klasse AIO after the clay, or PB PWC Blue. Same for the sealant----can't decide if I'll use Klasse sealant or PB EX.
 
FreeBIZZ said:
I'll be doing my first clay job on my 5 week old VW GTI-Red-----it's sounds like it's well worth it, even though the paint "looks" pristine. I'm not gonna skimp to save an hour. I haven't decided if I'm going to use Klasse AIO after the clay, or PB PWC Blue. Same for the sealant----can't decide if I'll use Klasse sealant or PB EX.

I think a misconception with clay is that you probably won't SEE a difference. Sure there are some small black marks on the paint that will be removed but claying makes the paint surface smooth and it is hard to SEE smooth paint :). Run the back of your hand on the paint before you clay and then do it after, the results will be very noticable.
 
budman3 said:
I think a misconception with clay is that you probably won't SEE a difference. Sure there are some small black marks on the paint that will be removed but claying makes the paint surface smooth and it is hard to SEE smooth paint :). Run the back of your hand on the paint before you clay and then do it after, the results will be very noticable.

He done broke out the smart on us.


Seriously budman, good post.
 
budman3 said:
I think a misconception with clay is that you probably won't SEE a difference. Sure there are some small black marks on the paint that will be removed but claying makes the paint surface smooth and it is hard to SEE smooth paint :). Run the back of your hand on the paint before you clay and then do it after, the results will be very noticable.

That's true, but again, I'm assuming time was precious and he asked if he could get away with it. I said YES, but didn't say there were no lost benefits.
 
Run the back of your hand on the paint before you clay and then do it after, the results will be very noticable.

And if you *really* want to feel a difference, put your fingers in a plastic baggie. It makes it easier to feel the small bumps or grit in the paint - feels kind of like grains of sand stuck to the paint. Once you've clayed a small section, do it again and you'll feel it's completely smooth.

I use the baggie on my fingers to spot check my car after I've washed/dried it to see if I need to clay following the next wash....

Andrew
 
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