Time to clay?

Elmacho

New member
I have never used a clay bar on my current car or any previous cars, only because I never knew about it. Anyway, I just bought a brand new car and have had it for a week. I just washed it, polished it, then waxed it today. My question is, since it's a new car is it necessary to use a clay bar on it yet? And if not, how long would you wait until you clayed a new car?
 
You must must must must must clay a new car.. I'm working on an 06 Chevy and i could hear the crap coming off the paint while i clayed. .


Yes clay it. you will be very happy
 
Clay it right off the lot. Vehicles get delivered by train sometimes and the rail dust gets on the car and if not removed, will cause little rust spots on your paint. If you run your hand across the paint and feel any bumps, then its time to clay. Welcome to DC
 
Even since its new its probally been sitting outside, and maybe around rail tracks, or by other factories. So yes, clay it.
 
Well, I just waxed it two days ago now without claying it. I have heard that you shouldnt wax your car too much because its not good for the paint. Should I wait until my next wax to clay it? Or should I just go ahead and wash, clay, wash, polish, wax again soon?
 
Elmacho said:
Well, I just waxed it two days ago now without claying it. I have heard that you shouldnt wax your car too much because its not good for the paint. Should I wait until my next wax to clay it? Or should I just go ahead and wash, clay, wash, polish, wax again soon?


It is never a bad thing to wax your car. I'd go ahead and clay it as soon as you can. You don't want any of the contaminents on your paint to stay there for too long.

By the way, make sure you stop by the New Members Forum to introduce yourself.
 
Elmacho said:
Well, I just waxed it two days ago now without claying it. I have heard that you shouldnt wax your car too much because its not good for the paint. Should I wait until my next wax to clay it? Or should I just go ahead and wash, clay, wash, polish, wax again soon?
Ok, just rewash your vehicle with "Dawn". Then clay it.

"I heard that you shouldnt wax your car too much because it's not good for the paint". Not true, however if the prep is done correctly, a sealer, and 2 coats of a quality carnuba is all you really need.

IMHO, anymore than that is really just for "bragging rights".
 
Solo Cali said:
Ok, just rewash your vehicle with "Dawn". Then clay it.


DO NOT wash your car with dish soap!!! It is not PH balanced to be used as car wash soap. If you don't believe me, call Dawn @ 1-800-725-3296 and ask them for yourself. Please, take the time and do it correctly. A good wash, clay, and polish will remove any of the old product to give you a brand new starting point.
 
audiboy said:
DO NOT wash your car with dish soap!!! It is not PH balanced to be used as car wash soap. If you don't believe me, call Dawn @ 1-800-725-3296 and ask them for yourself. Please, take the time and do it correctly. A good wash, clay, and polish will remove any of the old product to give you a brand new starting point.

audiboy, could you please explain the whole "PH" concept. I dont want to get into another pissing contest here on this forum, but what type of water are you using, hard water, DI water, or just soft water? It's relevent to the whole PH idea I would think.

DI water PH?
Soft water PH?
Hard water PH?

My point is depending on what water you use determins the PH balance, right?
 
I'm using hard water, but in any case, Dawn or any other dish soap is not formulated for automotive paint. It is made to take the grease and grime off of your kitchenware. Automotive soap is made for your paint and is all I suggest any detailer use on any vehicle. I just like to keep dish soap in the kitchen and auto soap in the garage.
 
audiboy said:
I'm using hard water, but in any case, Dawn or any other dish soap is not formulated for automotive paint. It is made to take the grease and grime off of your kitchenware. Automotive soap is made for your paint and is all I suggest any detailer use on any vehicle. I just like to keep dish soap in the kitchen and auto soap in the garage.

Makes sence.

audiboy are you familiar with ppm(parts per million)? This is the level of toxins in water. I highly dout that "any" "Automotive Soap" has the ability to completly balance the PH levels in "hard water". I have used "Dawn" on paint finishes before without a issue. I follow that with a good clay bar bath. Then the AIO is applied via PC 7424 at speed #4 with Meg's polishing pad. I then will apply PB EX-P by PC with lake country black finishing pad for a nice even coat. Let stand for 30 to 60 minutes and remove with PC on speed #5 with MF bonnet. Finally I would go over the detroyed "Dawn" washed paint with either Natty's or P21s(2x) if needed.

Now I would "bet the farm" that if you didnt know It was washed with "Dawn" you couldnt, and wouldnt be able to see/feel the differnce.
 
Solo Cali said:
Makes sence.

audiboy are you familiar with ppm(parts per million)? This is the level of toxins in water. I highly dout that "any" "Automotive Soap" has the ability to completly balance the PH levels in "hard water".


I realize that automotive soap cannot perfectly balance the PH levels in any random water sample. It will however, get it close to being the correct balance for automotive paint. This PH level will be a lot closer than a dish soap mixture.

Solo Cali said:
Now I would "bet the farm" that if you didnt know It was washed with "Dawn" you couldnt, and wouldnt be able to see/feel the differnce.

You're probably right, but I can't say for sure since I have never seen or felt a vehicle after a dish soap wash and no other work.
 
audiboy said:
I realize that automotive soap cannot perfectly balance the PH levels in any random water sample. It will however, get it close to being the correct balance for automotive paint. This PH level will be a lot closer than a dish soap mixture.



You're probably right, but I can't say for sure since I have never seen or felt a vehicle after a dish soap wash and no other work.

"This PH level will be a lot closer than dish soap". I dont know, have you used some of these OTC "automotive soaps"? Most are junk.(Kit/Blue coral/Zip Wax just to name a few.

Now I'll tell you my prefered water/soap selection.

Soft water from my home, sent through my DI set up right in to my 90 gallon tank. My soap well I use a brand call "AutoSmart". Wich I might add "claims" to balance the PH levels in "hard water".

Any real detailer will tell you, DI water is the right way, and the only way to wash cars/trucks correctly. Especially in the direct sun. Oh how sweet it is........ DI water is the tickect, hard water you've got to be kiding me, right?
 
Solo Cali said:
"This PH level will be a lot closer than dish soap". I dont know, have you used some of these OTC "automotive soaps"? Most are junk.(Kit/Blue coral/Zip Wax just to name a few.

Now I'll tell you my prefered water/soap selection.

Soft water from my home, sent through my DI set up right in to my 90 gallon tank. My soap well I use a brand call "AutoSmart". Wich I might add "claims" to balance the PH levels in "hard water".

Any real detailer will tell you, DI water is the right way, and the only way to wash cars/trucks correctly. Especially in the direct sun. Oh how sweet it is........ DI water is the tickect, hard water you've got to be kiding me, right?

Well, IMO, a "real detailer" wouldn't ever suggest using dish soap on vehicles. But hey, detailing is all about what works for you. Since there isn't any new content being discussed, let's get back to the original subject.
 
audiboy said:
Well, IMO, a "real detailer" wouldn't ever suggest using dish soap on vehicles. But hey, detailing is all about what works for you. Since there isn't any new content being discussed, let's get back to the original subject.
Dish soup is a method of stripping wax, and IMHO it works just fine. Infact there are polishes out there that would damage the paint faster than any dish soap would......

I beleieve the O.G topic here was elmacho starting from scratch with his vehicles paint. So "elmacho" what you should do is rewash you car/truck with NXT or PB's car wash. Then hit it with the clay bar. I would use the two bucket method as lube. Soapy water in one and clean water in the other(DI) that is. Hard water is for the birds. Next you should choose a good polish. I recomend Color "X" or PB's Polish. After that its up to you, sealer under carnuba, or sealer alone. EX-P under Natty's, or #21 under #26 paste. I know for a fact that either of these combo's work great over a properly preped surface.

Ofcorse the "PH" balanced water would make all the differece in the world........ NOT!
 
Solo Cali You seem to be a bit confused regarding what PH is. PH is the measurement of the hydrogen ion concentration in water and is measured on a scale of 0-14 with 0 being very acidic and 14 being very alkaline. Obviously it follows that a PH of 7 would be neutral. This has nothing to do with wether the water is hard of soft, which is a measure of the mineral concentration in water, and as you stated is measured in PPM or parts per million. They are two different things. Most Municipal water systems control both PH and hardness to some extent in an effort to improve water quality, improve the ease of maintenance to their system, and to meet State and Federal regulations.
 
pogo123 said:
Solo Cali You seem to be a bit confused regarding what PH is. PH is the measurement of the hydrogen ion concentration in water and is measured on a scale of 0-14 with 0 being very acidic and 14 being very alkaline. Obviously it follows that a PH of 7 would be neutral. This has nothing to do with wether the water is hard of soft, which is a measure of the mineral concentration in water, and as you stated is measured in PPM or parts per million. They are two different things. Most Municipal water systems control both PH and hardness to some extent in an effort to improve water quality, improve the ease of maintenance to their system, and to meet State and Federal regulations.
pogo123, thanks for the insite. As I stated in post #11, it would appier I was a bit confused as I ened the post with a question mark.

So is it your belief that a "car soap" could bring water to a PH of 7 as you state in your post? If so, how is this accomplished with in the chemicals that make up the soap.
 
Solo Cali said:
pogo123, thanks for the insite. As I stated in post #11, it would appier I was a bit confused as I ened the post with a question mark.

So is it your belief that a "car soap" could bring water to a PH of 7 as you state in your post? If so, how is this accomplished with in the chemicals that make up the soap.

Well, this question got me thinking, and I suspected that the small amount of soap used would not be enough to change the PH, so I tried an experiment. Although I didn't have any Dawn, I had three different car washes and two different dish soaps.

The Products:
My Tap Water - PH = 7.2
Poorboys SSS - Says is PH neutral on bottle - mixed per directions PH = 7.0
Optimum Car Wash - Doesn't mention PH - mixed per directions PH = 6.7
Finish Kare Wash/Wax - Doesn't mention PH - mixed per directions PH = 7.0
Palmolive Dish Soap - Doesn't mention PH - no directions 1oz/gal PH = 6.6
Cascade Dishwasher Soap-Doesn't mention PH-no directions 1oz/gal PH = 8.0

So it appears that the soap does change the PH of the water but it's hard to tell by how much since my water is close to neutral to start with. I wish I had some Dawn to try just to see if it is as caustic as the Cascade is. Besides the PH thing, another disadvantage to dish soap is it's grease and oil cutting ability which will tend to dry out rubber door seals and trim.

This experiment proves two things:
1 - I have too much time on my hands!
2 - My wife now thinks I'm craizer then she thought before!
 
Back
Top