Thoughts on Dr. ColorChip Paint Chip repair kit

JJH- Welcome to Autopia!



The Dr Colorchips stuff is certainly worth trying, if only because it's a nice safe way to approach touchups. Whether it'll really wow your or not, well.... :nixweiss



I haven't tried my metallic Pewter on the Tahoe yet, but I just did a *LOT* of touchups on the white Crown Vic with the stuff.



Doesn't always stick to e-coat or existing paint. Like the Langka, you gotta watch that the solvent doesn't just take it all off. I ended up letting it dry for a few hours and that seemed to work well.



I had mixed feelings about their application brush and the "smear it around and make a mess" instructions, so I finally switched to appling it thinly with a tiny brush (the excess on the surrounding area wasn't any thicker than the "smear" would've been) with better results.
 
Accumulator said:
JJH- Welcome to Autopia!



The Dr Colorchips stuff is certainly worth trying, if only because it's a nice safe way to approach touchups. Whether it'll really wow your or not, well.... :nixweiss



I haven't tried my metallic Pewter on the Tahoe yet, but I just did a *LOT* of touchups on the white Crown Vic with the stuff.



Doesn't always stick to e-coat or existing paint. Like the Langka, you gotta watch that the solvent doesn't just take it all off. I ended up letting it dry for a few hours and that seemed to work well.



I had mixed feelings about their application brush and the "smear it around and make a mess" instructions, so I finally switched to appling it thinly with a tiny brush (the excess on the surrounding area wasn't any thicker than the "smear" would've been) with better results.
Click to expand...



I had the same results on the hood of my miata.... I was not overly happy with the smear it around application, and it seemed to take of much of the paint in the chip as well as surrounding over-smudge when I went back over it with the solvent. Frankly, I got pretty frustrated with it.



Jeff
 
Thanks for all of the helps guys.



Accumulator, where are you located in Northeast Ohio? I live in NE Ohio myself. In the Jackson/Canton area.
 
JJH- We're not all that far apart, I know "NE Ohio" is awfully vague :o



Black99miata- Did you try letting it set up for a bit longer than they suggest and/or layering the paint before trying to level it? I was pleasantly surprised by how "conventional touchup techniques" seemed to help improve things. It was almost like..uhm, using the Dr. Colorchips as if it were a single stage paint verson of Langka.



And to tell the truth, after using the Dr Colorchips (for hours and hours on end) I'm kinda leaning towards revisiting the Langka. My Blob Eliminator dried out..
 
Accumulator said:
JJH- We're not all that far apart, I know "NE Ohio" is awfully vague :o



Black99miata- Did you try letting it set up for a bit longer than they suggest and/or layering the paint before trying to level it? I was pleasantly surprised by how "conventional touchup techniques" seemed to help improve things. It was almost like..uhm, using the Dr. Colorchips as if it were a single stage paint verson of Langka.



And to tell the truth, after using the Dr Colorchips (for hours and hours on end) I'm kinda leaning towards revisiting the Langka. My Blob Eliminator dried out..
Click to expand...



Not really - the last I used it was the beginning of last summer. At that time, I decided to perform a bit of a rust-ectomy on my rocker panels (a relatively common ailment for those miatas that are diven 365 like mine is), and decided to have them spray the hood and fron tfenders that had taken some abuse from some extended highway driving over the winters. Came out really well, but surpise, some have started to pop up again. I'll have to break out the Dr Colochip and try my hand with it again. Thanks for the suggestions.



Jeff
 
What do you guys think of the toothpick method of applying it over the "smear" technique? I feel the smearing, like you guys say, is just messy and counterintuitive... :think:
 
DR Colorchip seams to "set" a little fast for the toothpick unless you're good/practiced with it. But yes, the "smear it around" doesn't work very well. I also let it set up for about an hour before blending and I only do a section at a time. If I have a car riddled with chips I do a 4 x 4 section at a time and then go to the next. Darker metal flake turns out well as long as the chip isn't too big. When you get 4 to 6 inches away you can see a variation in the consistency but at 2 feet it looks great. Some of the bigger chips sometime need a second app to get the level right and I have had mixed luck with small scratches. As for polishing a DR'ed paint job...WAIT AT LEAST 45 DAYS! I did a black Escalade and then a fine finish polish and wax a week later.....it all came right back out 2 days later....OOPS! Ate my hat on that one but I had only used it a few times at that point.
 
Nopstnz8- I find the toothpick/matchstick approach to be pretty inferior to using actual paintbrushes. Maybe I'm just not all that talented, but the better the application medium the better my results are likely to be. I have a selection of brushes from maybe size 2 down to muloti-zero (smallest is a 20/0, and that's *small*) and I use 'em with a magnifying visor so I can really see what I'm doing.



TheConnection- Good to hear somebody else is doing OK with the approach I'm using, didn't know if it was just me or what.



Sorry to hear I really have to wait 45 days before I polish though. Yeah, I'm the guy who waits months before LSPing most paintwork, but I simply *gotta* do the Crown Vic in another week or so and that's gonna include at least a light polishing. Maybe something like PO85RD won't be too aggressive, guess I'm gonna find out. Oh man, if I [muck] this up I'm gonna be highly displeased :o Maybe I oughta wait on the polish, the car's a complete POS anyhow (cosmetically ;) ), but, but....well, you know.
 
Accumulator said:
Nopstnz8- I find the toothpick/matchstick approach to be pretty inferior to using actual paintbrushes. Maybe I'm just not all that talented, but the better the application medium the better my results are likely to be. I have a selection of brushes from maybe size 2 down to muloti-zero (smallest is a 20/0, and that's *small*) and I use 'em with a magnifying visor so I can really see what I'm doing.



TheConnection- Good to hear somebody else is doing OK with the approach I'm using, didn't know if it was just me or what.



Sorry to hear I really have to wait 45 days before I polish though. Yeah, I'm the guy who waits months before LSPing most paintwork, but I simply *gotta* do the Crown Vic in another week or so and that's gonna include at least a light polishing. Maybe something like PO85RD won't be too aggressive, guess I'm gonna find out. Oh man, if I [muck] this up I'm gonna be highly displeased :o Maybe I oughta wait on the polish, the car's a complete POS anyhow (cosmetically ;) ), but, but....well, you know.
Click to expand...



Great to know. Oh and I agree that a "proper" paint brush probably would be more ideal than a toothpick now that I think about it.



Oh and I'm the same way with paint work... My friend got his car repainted in a few sections, and we're waiting the full 90 days before touching it in regards to sealants or polishing
 
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