This is going to sound REALLY strange, but....

C. Charles Hahn

C. Charles Hahn

CCH Auto Appearance, LLC
What's the best way to quickly and easily damage/destroy black Ford factory clear coat paint?

I've got a practice panel I got from a local body shop for a presentation/workshop I'm doing next week, and unfortunately it's far too new and in too good of shape to make for much of a demo (Came off a low mileage '04 Ford Ranger). So, I'm trying to create damage that can be corrected with three different methods -- rotary, PC, and by hand. Oh, and keep in mind that I've never worked on Ford clearcoat, only Single Stage red on an older Mustang once.

Also, for those who have taught clinics before, I have a really abbreviated period of time to teach and demonstrate some basics to people who have absolutely zero detailing knowledge. At most I've got ~10 minutes (and even that is a stretch by just a bit.) I want the most dramatic "real world" before/after results that I can get in that time. Any thoughts on what would be the best/easiest way to pull this off and convince the people of the importance of detailing along with seeing what's possible?

Thanks alot; I'm getting slightly overwhelmed by the fact that there's so much I woulud love to cover, but so little time that I know I can't pull it off. Input is REALLY greatly appreciated! :bigups
 
brake fluid
baloney
egg
carb cleaner

All of those will cause some pretty serious damage. I don't know how easy it will be to fix though. The baloney might be the easiest. It puts some nice circles on the paint that don't wash off. I suspect something must leech into the paint or something like that. I've never had to fix it, so I don't know. :naughty The brake fluid and carb cleaner might very well take the paint off, so maybe don't do those.
 
sand a little with fine sand paper
moderate key scratches
Put a (filled) cardboard box on it and slide it. Should put some marks across it, but not too many, if at all, deep scratches
 
I do a spring cleaning clinic every year and it usually takes 4 to 6 hours to go through everything that we do. In 10 minutes the most dramatic demonstration I can think of is to take the oxidation off half the hood or side of a red vehicle. That is always really effective. Either that or just a simple clay demonstration on any car in the parking lot will work too.
 
^I've been looking for an oxidized hood for trade shows and the like. Haven't found it yet, but I will.
 
Jngrbrdman said:
I do a spring cleaning clinic every year and it usually takes 4 to 6 hours to go through everything that we do. In 10 minutes the most dramatic demonstration I can think of is to take the oxidation off half the hood or side of a red vehicle. That is always really effective. Either that or just a simple clay demonstration on any car in the parking lot will work too.
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I agree completely, but unfortunately since this is for a college class, I'm stuck with an in-classroom setting so that it can be graded and videotaped. I'll just have to play around with it a bit, I guess....

Should I just leave out demonstrating the rotary and hand polishing, and focus on PC use? I was thinking I might demo on part of the panel, and then have a volunteer come up and use the polisher to finish the job. I'm thinking for the ease of it, I'll just take #80 or #83 with a W-8006 pad. (Again, unless you folks have other suggestions)
 
i would use steel wool and some strong cleaner such as dish soap. Use the dish soap as a lube and lighly scratch witht he steel wool. Maybe use a stiff brush on it as well. I would find some chemicals still safe to touch that you would not use normaly like dish soap or use tide and a little bit of water. Turn the detergant into a paste and work it in then wipe it off. Im sure you will do fine put a few scratches in. Enjoy it, im sure it will be fun
 
Just do what every other person and thier momma does, wash it with a rag, and dry it with a bath towl a couple times...lmao
 
Use the rotary incorrectly in front of the class to show what *can* happen, then show how to correct it.
Otherwise, I'd go with the above. Treat it like most people would when washing/using the car. :D
 
Big Leegr said:
Use the rotary incorrectly in front of the class to show what *can* happen, then show how to correct it.
Otherwise, I'd go with the above. Treat it like most people would when washing/using the car. :D
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Well, this morning before I came to work, I went ahead and "washed" the panel with Meg's Wheel Brightener and a shop rag... put some nice etching and marring into it :yay I'm probably going to do the steel wool suggestion in a few spots, too.

Actually I also really like the idea about intentionally using the rotary incorrectly and showing how to fix it. I'd just have to make it VERY clear to folks which way is the right way, and which is the wrong way. :stuart:

I never thought I'd have this much fun beating the crap out of nice paint :gun_banda
 
I see you have started to damage your panel, but below are my suggestions. One the easiest way to mar or damage a panel is use the foam brush at the coin-op car wash. Other mechanical methods would be to use a dirty sponge, shop rags, rough cotton towels, green kitchen scruber, low quality wash mitts or other such items. Chemical methods, I would try Undiluted wheel acid, undiluted APC, Undiluted Degreaser, Brake fluid, Brake parts cleaner, soft scrub or other harsh chemical.

Eric
 
Big Leegr said:
How would you correct this afterwards?
Doesn't the brake fluid eat the paint off the car, or is this a myth? :confused:
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Depends how fast you wipe/rinse it off. (Ask me how I know :D) It looks to me almost like something that will require a bit of wetsanding to completely blend. And even then I may be dangerously close to the point of compromising the clear. :stuart:
 
CalgaryDetail said:
we would really love it if you wouldput some pics of the pannel on for us to see you handy work. Thnkx
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Oh believe me, when the destruction is all said and done, pics will be forthcomming :angel_not
 
Shiny Lil Detlr said:
Well, this morning before I came to work, I went ahead and "washed" the panel with Meg's Wheel Brightener and a shop rag... put some nice etching and marring into it :yay I'm probably going to do the steel wool suggestion in a few spots, too.

Actually I also really like the idea about intentionally using the rotary incorrectly and showing how to fix it. I'd just have to make it VERY clear to folks which way is the right way, and which is the wrong way. :stuart:

I never thought I'd have this much fun beating the crap out of nice paint :gun_banda
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Keep in mind that you have 10 minutes for all this. :)
You are creating quite a project for you to take care of in that limited amount of time.

Charles
 
I think you should forgo the chemicals not a good thing for a classroom demonstration. use something that shows the damage from everyday improper washing and drying .
 
CharlesW said:
Keep in mind that you have 10 minutes for all this. :)
You are creating quite a project for you to take care of in that limited amount of time.

Charles
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True; I think what I'm going to do is split the panel into three areas, leave one showing the damage, one showing the worst of the damage removed, and the third area I'll use for showing the final compounding/polishing to bring out the perfect deep, wet shine.

Maybe?
 
Shiny Lil Detlr said:
True; I think what I'm going to do is split the panel into three areas, leave one showing the damage, one showing the worst of the damage removed, and the third area I'll use for showing the final compounding/polishing to bring out the perfect deep, wet shine.

Maybe?
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That will probably be your best bet. At least thats what i would do.
 
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