Tape Edges?
- Thread starter Imatk
- Start date
SVR
Dream Machines
I always tape each side of the bonnet, cover any badges completely and any gaps in the body. Makes polish dust removal in gaps much quicker as most areas are covered
It is really easy to burn the edges of doors so they are always taped.
It is really easy to burn the edges of doors so they are always taped.
SVR
Dream Machines
Got both but use the rotary mostly. Have done for about three years. Highly skilled with it but humble and always listen to the true masters.
Remember a rotary can slice through and take a slice off a door edge in seconds.
That's why I tape. I've worked on too many cars that have been buffed before that have both front doors edges not just down to the primer but 1mm cut off.
Remember a rotary can slice through and take a slice off a door edge in seconds.
That's why I tape. I've worked on too many cars that have been buffed before that have both front doors edges not just down to the primer but 1mm cut off.
David Fermani
Forza Auto Salon
SVR said:
That's about the only real thing taping is good for for me. That and really soft moldings. I've never come accross a detailer that's burned the edge of a panel rubbing it out and I've trained several dozen beginners. I've seen some people here get really carried away with taping up a vehicle. To each is own. Even if you sling a little polish on your moldings or into the cracks, it's nothing that a detail brush and a towel can't fix really easy.
Changeling
New member
SVR said:
SVR, can you please post a picture of the things you are talking about! I understand the term and process but I and 1000 others would like to see the actual treatment you describe.
Thanks a lot, Changeling
I burnt/wrecked the edge of a hood on a Buick Allure, the part closest to the windsheild about 1mm by 4cm. It was a former rental and had a huge scratch on the hood that I had to wetsand out. Scratch came out, a little touch up paint on the edge and it ended up looking pretty good but I was embarassed and definetly learnt my lesson. :nervous2:
Some of the guys I work with don't ever use tape, IMO never a good idea.
Some of the guys I work with don't ever use tape, IMO never a good idea.
Accumulator
Well-known member
I've cut through (old, thin) single stage with the PC, had to tape after that lest I make it worse.
I tape a lot when using the rotary. If something's safely covered by the tape I simply don't have to think about it and the fewer worries the better.
And yeah, it can be a real pain to clean product out of deep recesses between panels; since I keep the doorjambs/etc. as well-detailed as the rest of the car I don't want to waste time cleaning some mess out of those areas (it's hard enough to polish/seal them as it is).
I tape a lot when using the rotary. If something's safely covered by the tape I simply don't have to think about it and the fewer worries the better.
And yeah, it can be a real pain to clean product out of deep recesses between panels; since I keep the doorjambs/etc. as well-detailed as the rest of the car I don't want to waste time cleaning some mess out of those areas (it's hard enough to polish/seal them as it is).
Changeling
New member
Accumulator said:
As usual the master arrives in time to save the Shilen Temple from being exploited by the westerners with there strange wax's and concoctions!
Excuse the sensationalism, I am just in a good mood, but it is the truth!
Accumulator if one does get a mess in all those areas, can it be removed easily with something like Megs34 and Q-tips? I am more interested in the clean up process problem, since one mess up will teach me not to do that again, hopefully.
Change
To me taping provides a bit of a cushion on the edges so oyu don't burn through it as quickly. It also makes cleanup a lot easier as you won't get polish caked into the crevices. Cleaning off polish residue from the rubber trim is a major PIA too. I still pay for the times when I'm to lazy to tape off, yet spend an hour or so trying to clean up all the hardened polish...
SVR
Dream Machines
Changeling said:
I cant atm.
The tape is applied on the inside and outside of the door so there is no chance of removing all the paint or grinding into the metal a fraction.
Accumulator
Well-known member
Danforz- The PC/Cyclo doesn't seem to get excess polish everywhere nearly as much as the rotary does (probably my lack of skill with the rotary at play here). I only tape with the PC if I forsee a product-staining-trim issue or if I'm concerned about thin paint.
Changeling- Example where the polish residue would be a big PIA: Back/trailing side of front fenders, accessible only by opening the doors and reaching down inside there. I have to use long sticks wrapped with MF to polish/etc. these areas and I sure wouldn't want to try cleaning splattered polish out of there. While #34 will help soften polish residue, it won't always just wipe off without any real effort. And stuff can get into areas that you won't reach with a swab.
Changeling- Example where the polish residue would be a big PIA: Back/trailing side of front fenders, accessible only by opening the doors and reaching down inside there. I have to use long sticks wrapped with MF to polish/etc. these areas and I sure wouldn't want to try cleaning splattered polish out of there. While #34 will help soften polish residue, it won't always just wipe off without any real effort. And stuff can get into areas that you won't reach with a swab.
As far as what needs to be taped if using a PC, anything you do not want polish ground into (rubber, plastic, etc.). Again the action of the PC dosn't allow you to get right up to edges of moldings etc. so you should tape them if you need to polish up to them. If using a rotary you don't need to tape these off because you "can" polish up to them with control, so taping is not needed. I don't have a problem with rotary sling any more because I find if you work the polish in at a low rpm then increase the rpms there is little to no sling and no need for taping. Hope this helps.
Accumulator
Well-known member
Danforz said:
Of the products you've mentioned I've only used the KAIO and (just a tiny bit of experimenting with) the ZAIO. Neither is an issue on trim staining wise but the ZAIO is pretty abrasive and it really scoured up some plastic trim on the Audi; I had to get out some "real" polishes to smooth things out. So I'd sure be careful with that one. Can't remember *ever* having a problem with getting KAIO on anything, but be careful with rubber, don't rub hard or it'll mess with the texture (e.g. the rubber bumper covers on my XJS).
IMO the big issues with edges and the PC are: 1) already thin paint, including crappy paintjobs where it was sprayed on these areas thinner than you might expect and 2) badly aligned panels where your pad ends up constantly bumping the "higher" adjacent panel (e.g., the trailing edge of a door when said door sticks out a little from the quarter panel- if you polish the quarter and the pad keeps hitting the edge of the door it might take off more paint than you'd want).
i wanted to bump this back to the top to ask a more detailed question.
I'm reading about the fears/concerns of burning paint at the edges as the typical thickness towards the end of a panel is on average thinner.
That being said, most say to tape seams between panels (ie. Hood to fender, Fender to door, trunk to quarter panel etc etc)
when i tape these areas, do i simply run a 1" wide section of tape over the seam? or is it best to open the hood, and wrap the tape from the top of the hood to the underside and close the hood. I'm looking for more detail on the proper way to tape off.
Lastly, if i've got a 1" section of tape over my seam, when i remove that tape, won't it be noticable that the entire panel (or hood) is polished, save for a 1/2" section all the way around the border where i had my tape?
I'm reading about the fears/concerns of burning paint at the edges as the typical thickness towards the end of a panel is on average thinner.
That being said, most say to tape seams between panels (ie. Hood to fender, Fender to door, trunk to quarter panel etc etc)
when i tape these areas, do i simply run a 1" wide section of tape over the seam? or is it best to open the hood, and wrap the tape from the top of the hood to the underside and close the hood. I'm looking for more detail on the proper way to tape off.
Lastly, if i've got a 1" section of tape over my seam, when i remove that tape, won't it be noticable that the entire panel (or hood) is polished, save for a 1/2" section all the way around the border where i had my tape?
imported_Ivan Rajic
New member
Mr. Vapor said:
If I was to do this (I don't tape off edges, only trim, moldings and badges) I'd definitely open the doors, hood, etc. and tape as little of the edge as possible so that hand polishing is at a minimum later... and that answers your second question... you would hand polish the taped up section after machine polishing and lifting the tape.