Swirl Removal By Hand

J

JMV777

New member
Hello Ladies and Gentlemen,





Some of you have seen my Jeep Grand Cherokee Overland and it needs a swirl removal. The thing is that I do not have any of the power buffers that most of you guys have. I do not have the space to keep all this stuff in Manhattan. I tried swirl remover but it didnt work. Is it because of the old wax that is still there, therefore it didnt grab. So would you guys suggest a Dawn Soap Wash, then swirl removal, then polish, then wax? Can someone guide me through all the steps. I am just a rookie to detailing. So please bear with me.





-Joe
 
You would be better off trying to whizz up a rope. Either pay a pro to do the work or buy the equipment and learn to do it yourself. It's just that simple.
 
RTexasF said:
You would be better off trying to whizz up a rope. Either pay a pro to do the work or buy the equipment and learn to do it yourself. It's just that simple.
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Ok. Thanks. I was just trying to see what I can do. I think the problem is that the swirl remover is not grabbing because of the old wax. My bad.
 
BigAl3 said:
megs just came out with some new consumer products and if you plan on doing swirl remover by hand, give the new ultimate compound and swirlx (these both can be used by hand or D/A) a try. some have reported that their local walmart already having them, and they retail for $8.99-$9.99 each...



check this out... Scratch Removed using Ultimate Compound - Car Care Forums: Meguiar's Online



1. wash

2. clay

3. ultimate compound and/or swirlx

4. lsp
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Thank You Sir.
 
man...



unfortunately, despite what megs markets, it's impossible to correct the paint by hand. you might be able, with a SHlT TON of elbow grease, hide some stuff and/or make things appear better but it's just a fact of life- you need a machine to correct.



so, as mentioned...i'd find someone on this forum or, one of the other popular 'boutique' forums, and hire them to correct the vehicle.



it is then at that point, with proper washing techniques and various hand applied products, that you could potentially upkeep the car to a moderate standard.



if you ever travel down to southern nj, i'd be glad to tackle it for you for a fair rate.



good luck.
 
builthatch said:
that piece is the most popular entry level buffer on the market today. that is a decent price, i didn't look at shipping, etc, but i prefer to purchase from autogeek as their customer support is second to none and there are always discounts available (such as free shipping) to help in the $ department.
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Thank You Sir. Now my next problem is to find a extention cord. LOL
 
JMV777 said:
Thank You Sir. Now my next problem is to find a extention cord. LOL
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no prob. just so you know, sites like autogeek have combo packages that would further help you get started.



as far as an extension cord, i have a tip! if you DO get one for the PC, make sure it's a pretty hefty gauge if going any sort of distance, like 25-50 feet or something. they are not cheap, but using the proper gauge cord will prevent melted outlets or fires. i have a Ridgid brand cord from home depot that cost me a fortune, but it's SUPER flexible and my wife can use an electric blower for an hour without any warmth at the outlet, so it's more than safe for using any of my detailing tools for long durations.
 
builthatch said:
no prob. just so you know, sites like autogeek have combo packages that would further help you get started.



as far as an extension cord, i have a tip! if you DO get one for the PC, make sure it's a pretty hefty gauge if going any sort of distance, like 25-50 feet or something. they are not cheap, but using the proper gauge cord will prevent melted outlets or fires. i have a Ridgid brand cord from home depot that cost me a fortune, but it's SUPER flexible and my wife can use an electric blower for an hour without any warmth at the outlet, so it's more than safe for using any of my detailing tools for long durations.
Click to expand...



Yeah. I wont cheap ot on that. All I need on my hands is a lawsuit for causing a fire.
 
builthatch said:
no prob. just so you know, sites like autogeek have combo packages that would further help you get started.



as far as an extension cord, i have a tip! if you DO get one for the PC, make sure it's a pretty hefty gauge if going any sort of distance, like 25-50 feet or something. they are not cheap, but using the proper gauge cord will prevent melted outlets or fires. i have a Ridgid brand cord from home depot that cost me a fortune, but it's SUPER flexible and my wife can use an electric blower for an hour without any warmth at the outlet, so it's more than safe for using any of my detailing tools for long durations.
Click to expand...



I thought it burn out the tool

before it started problems with the outlet:nixweiss
 
If you dont have the space to keep stuff just pay to have the car detailed by a pro.



You really dont need alot of stuff, you could get a starter kit that would fit in a shoe box. You dont need a polisher either, your results will be the same but expect to spend a week on the car.....literally. Without a garage it's tough, I dont have one, I'm always fighting for more sunlight and suitable tempatures.



The PC....man what a love hate relationship. It is an awesome tool on cars in good shape or when your used to detailing by hand. Once you get used to it and see/use other machines like a Cyclo or rotary you'll really want to upgrade. You've got a new truck, if you can keep it nice a PC will be enough. Just dont detail a friends car that needs a decent amount of work, you'll regret it.
 
JMV777- A few sorta-random thoughts:



I've run PCs on quite long, pretty small-gauge extension cords with no problems. The PC doesn't draw all that much. Yeah, thicker is better but in this case it's not mandatory IME.



IME the PC only does significant correction in a timely manner when fitted with 4" pads, and most "PC packages" (scare-quotes intentional as I'd rather put together my own) come with much larger pads. Small pads require a small backing plate, which isn't expensive. Larger pads result in too much friction, causing the PC to bog down and "merely jiggle" when pressure is applied.



You *CAN* do correction by hand, even on hard clear. Just takes a lot of time and effort. With the new Meguiar's stuff (M105 and presumably Ultimate Compound, though I haven't tried the latter) it's not all *that* tough...even easier than with the aggressive stuff from 1Z, which I've used for can't-reach-by-machine areas for years. Just did it on the trunklid of my wife's A8 where somebody brushed against it; using M105 followed by 1Z HG, the job was probably finished quicker than it woulda been using the PC as I didn't have to get out/put away the PC and clean out the pads.
 
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