Steps and products needed? Water spot

kappax1

New member
Hello, this is my second time asking about water spot removal from paint and window.

Can anyone with experience with this problem give me some detail advice to remove it.

What step should I do and what product do i have to order and where is the best deal on getting these product from. And what process did you do to remove it. my car has rough spot on windows and in sunlight you can see on paint. Thank you
 
For the windows, your more than likely going to have to get the glass professionally polished. For the paint though, QD will remove fresh water spots. For ones that have been left on the paint for an extended period of time, and have etched into the clearcoat, your going to have to use an abrasive polish on it to remove it. treat the etching as you would any other marring. If you want temporary results, you could always use products that have fillers, but these would only last a few washes before you would have to reapply. I personally use Optimum polish and compound as my go-to abrasive polishes. I got them from pakshak. I use 4" Lake Country Manufacturing pads for defect removal on my PC7336 (porter cable model #7336, got it at lowe's).
 
For the glass, the best I have used is Duragloss Nu-Glass (#755 I think). You can do a search for it. The stuff is amazing for removing water spots on glass. Takes a little work and time, but the results are definitely worth it. It is used just like any other polish. And I've found my PC makes it so much easier.

Once you have your glass perfectly spotless, I'd suggest using RainX to help keep them that way. And very frequent cleaning is much easier than getting rid of water spots. My glass gets cleaned daily to prevent spots.

For paint, there are many good polishes out there. My favorites are Meguiar's DACP (#83) and Speed Glaze (#80). DACP is stronger, so I don't always need it. The Speed Glaze leaves a finish very glossy and ready for wax (or sealant). Both are much easier and produce better results if applied with a PC. there is much info on her about their use and effectiveness.



Dave
 
From what I gather on the forums around here about water spot, should I order these item for my task?

Clay bar - never clayed before

AIO - heard good outcome of use

PC - got to learn how to use one

Glass Polish

SSR2.5

PC pad don't know which one but i guess orange cutting pad



I don't know if my paint is consider new but the vechicle is only 1yr.

Is there any item that i am missing that I should include
 
clay you can get at an auto store locally. Meg's, mothers, and clay magic all put out OTC clay bar kits.

PC's u can get at lowe's. Recently there was a sale on them for 70 bucks, I don't know if that's still going on but normally they're just over $100.

lake country, propel, meguiar's, edge, all these are nice pads. I'd go with the propel pads you can get at exceldetail. Though i haven't used them, they are highly spoken of here and the price for them is hard to beat. I'd suggest that you pick up a 4" yellow, orange, and green pad for defect removal and an assorted number of green, blue, and gray 7" pads for other jobs. Don't forget your backing plates.

The SSR series of polishes by poorboy's are great. In addition to SSR2.5, I'd get SSR1 as a finishing polish.

AIO is a paint cleaner. It's not really going to remove etching caused by waterspots. But, it will leave a great base for additional LSP type products.
 
When i obtain these items, what do i do first as in,

1. wash

2. clay

3. ...........



I don't know if this help but the spot had been on there for at least 1yr.



What pad do i use first to try if it work before going to the next one?

On the windows, do i use a pc with glass polish, is that it for the windows?

If once i succefully remove the spot, is the rest of the item for protective purpose?



Thank you for the replies!
 
I know nothing about glass polishing, sorry.



But for the other stuff-

1. wash the car

2. clay the car. Some people do this with the car still wet. I dry it and then us a QD as lube

3. you can wash again, I just QD to get rid of residue instead.

4. this is your polishing step(s). start off with ssr2.5 on a 4" green pad. work the area and see if the marks are being removed. If not, step up to a higher agressiveness pad. afterwards, use ssr1 on a green pad to get rid of any haze or leftover marks.

5. using a blue pad, go over the area with AIO.

6-X. after this, you can apply your LSP's. These include your favorite waxes, sealants, glazes, etc.



I know your supposed to move up in agressiveness when polishing rather than starting at an agressive polish but I highly doubt that SSR1 is going to take out these old waterspots. Keep in mind, you need to work the area for a while so that the polishes have an ample amount of time to break down. Also, try not to use too much polish because the effectiveness of the polishes plumment if u use too much. I prime the pad with a ring of polish on the outside for the first 2x2 area I work on and then 4 small dots of polish for each additional area afterwards. good luck.
 
For the glass, a PC with a cutting pad (aggressive pad) makes the job soooo much easier. The glass polish I mentioned earlier (Duragloss Nu Glass) is used just like a paint polish, but only on the glass. Basically, you work it in eaither by hand or PC, then buff it off. I have used paint polishes on glass (such as DACP) with a PC to remove light water spots, and they were effective. But on heavy or deep water spots, the Duragloss Nu Glass wins hands down. Not only is it more effective, but it is easier to use on glass. The "problem" with paint polishes on glass is that they typically contain higher levels of lubricating oils, which makes for smearing when buffing it off. A work-around for this problem is to simply wash the car after polishing the glass to ensure you get all of the polish residue off of the glass. Washing after polishing the glass will also remove the polish dust that will inevitably get in every nook and cranny around your windshield, cowl, and door seams.



There are several glass "protection" type products on the market, such as RainX and AccuVision. I have used both with great results, but the RainX seems to last much longer on my car (over a year compared to 1 month for the AccuVision). On the other hand, AccuVision is so much easier to use, that monthly application isn't really much more work. Both create a nice beading effect of water on the exterior glass, and will help prevent water spots from becoming permanent. I highly suggest either of these products on ALL exterior glass, including mirrors. Not only do they help prevent waterspots, but they increase safety while driving. I actually very rarely even use my windshield wipers.



Another thing I can't stress enough for glass maintenance is being very diligent about keeping the glass clean. I clean mine daily, whether by simply using a squeegee to remove morning dew or a glass cleaner and rag. This really helps prevent water spots from returning, or bugs from etching the windshield. It also greatly improves the effectiveness of my RainX, as it isn't as effective beading water off the windows if they're dirty (same principle as waxed, but dirty paint doesn't bead water as well as waxed and clean paint).



For the paint, you've gotten some pretty sound advice above. There is also more than enough info on this board to keep someone entertained for days on end.



I know this all sounds like a bunch of work, but the end result is worth it. As for the glass maintenance, it's just part of my routine that I don't even think about anymore. Even my wife and kids understand that Daddy's going to clean the windows before we go anywhere. They just accept it....



This disease will sneak you when you least expect it.....



Dave
 
I recently reconditioned a Mercedes C. class for sale. It has some pretty bad water spots from where the windshield wipers weren't able to get. I picked up some 0000 steel wool from Home Depot and with the help of some quick detailing spray for lubrication I proceeded to wipe out the water spots on the glass. As normal, I started in a small inconspicuous area, and to my surprise it worked very, very well. He removed the water spots and left no visible scratches on a glass.



Good luck
 
recently did a neon (my moms) with bad waterspotting. used OCC via PC at speed 6 with meg's cutting pad. Followed by OCP/OCC 2 to 1 mix via PC speed 6 with LC polishing pad. Turned out really nice and water spots were gone. I was happy with it she was too.
 
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