Step up from Megs 105 & LC Orange

dschribs

dschribs

Active member
Worked on my friends Lincoln Aviator today (black) and I really think I could have benefited from just one more step up the agression scale from the Megs 105 and LC orange pad I was using. That combo did knock down about 85% of the defects but there were some random scratches and what not I just couldn't get out - not deep enough for wet sanding and couldn't be felt with a finger nail.



Can anyone give me a combo that would be a little more aggressive?? Say just one more step up...



I'm not concerned with how it finishes because I always go over the "compounding" step with a less agressive polish (like 205) and a polishing pad anyway.



FYI - I'm using a Griot's DA. Speed 6.



Thanks!
 
HD White pad, although I find the Black lambs wool is a little more aggresive than the white yet finishes down much better

(with UNO anyway havnt used M105 with either)
 
dfazekas said:
^ What he said
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I agree, surbuff pads and m105, try the kb method, Don't go overboard on the m105 though. Start off on a slower speed and go up until you are comfortable with it. I've never had problems with it and always get very good results...I do wonder if the flex 3401 with an orange pad and m105 would be the same.. I just dont have the 3401 to find out.
 
it's been said a few times already, but definitely try 105 on a surbuf pad. I haven't used 105 on a MF pad yet but that's supposed to cut similar to 105/Surbuf.
 
Thanks!



If I do go the Surbuf route - anything different I need to do with the Surbuf pads that I wouldn't do with a normal LC pad?? In other words, all rules for the KBM would apply?
 
dschribs said:
Thanks!



If I do go the Surbuf route - anything different I need to do with the Surbuf pads that I wouldn't do with a normal LC pad?? In other words, all rules for the KBM would apply?
Click to expand...



Totally different from standard kbm. No priming or pressure with surbuf. 3 dots of 105 and 1 dot of 300. Spritz water as you go.



Evo 3d
 
jose206 said:
I agree, surbuff pads and m105, try the kb method, Don't go overboard on the m105 though. Start off on a slower speed and go up until you are comfortable with it. I've never had problems with it and always get very good results...I do wonder if the flex 3401 with an orange pad and m105 would be the same.. I just dont have the 3401 to find out.
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Both the Flex and Makita BO6040 have different actions from the random orbital of the Porter Cable and other random orbitals. The Makita is the more aggressive of the two and is naturally better balanced - Try running the Flex with that heavy handle/vibration dampener off and you'll see what I mean.



Since they have an orbit and forced, not random, rotation they put more movement between the pad and the paint, more like a rotary polisher but at slower speeds. The Makita spins around 650 rpms. That's enough to get some work done but not enough to get someone who's paying attention in trouble.



The way I see it, the random orbitals are the least aggressive - which means they need more aggressive materials to work faster.



The forced rotation with orbit, what I call true dual action machines, the Flex, Makita, etc. are somewhere in the middle so they need less aggressive materials and the rotary polishers are the most aggressive so they need the least aggressive/finest abrasives to get things done in the same amount of time.



As far as final outcome goes, people can get great results with any of these machines using the right combinations of pads and polish. The difference that matters is how long it will take you to get there.



I use a rotary for scratch removal, then use the dual action makita to remove my swirls, but if I had to live with just one machine, it would be the dual action.
 
jose206 said:
I agree, surbuff pads and m105,... I've never had problems with it and always get very good results...I do wonder if the flex 3401 with an orange pad and m105 would be the same...
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Two thoughts come to mind:



-I never got the same great results with SurBuffs that others have. User-error I'm sure, but I'm not gonna slog up that particular learing curve. MF cutting pads do everything I'd ever want a RO/DA machine to do so no big loss IMO. Just something to consider if the SurBuffs don't work out

- The Flex with M105/orange isn't all *that* aggressive, and for serious work with that machine I'd rather use a more aggressive pad (I really like the Meguiar's Burgundy foam cutting pads, both the new version and the old 7006 work well for me via Flex)



WhyteWizard said:
Try running the Flex with that heavy handle/vibration dampener off and you'll see what I mean.
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You're referring to the Flex 3401, right? What "heavy handle/vibration damper" do you mean?



I've removed the plastic grip that's mounted on top of the housing; no problems other than the housing heating up pretty fast.



But I cans sure imagine why plenty of people don't really care for the Flex; it has a particular type of, uhm...."recoil" that somebody might object to.
 
I have yet to use it with UNO, but it finishes down amazing. With M105 or D300 pretty much LSP ready.



Surbuff with 105 is a defect killer, but it needs at least 2 steps of refinement after IMO.
 
pwaug said:
How does the B&S yellow finish down?? Have you ever used it with UNO?
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I have yet to use it with UNO, but it finishes down amazing. With M105 or D300 pretty much LSP ready.



Surbuff with 105 is a defect killer, but it needs at least 2 steps of refinement after IMO.
 
Accumulator,



Yes, I mean the handle on the Flex. I took it off because I wanted to see if it would be easier to use without it, but it was, pun intended, a real handful.



Robert
 
Thanks whytewizard and accumulator for your feedback on the flex. I actually bought one a couple years back and sold it after a month because I couldn't see what all the talk was about on that machine. What's the quickest one step combo you guys can suggest if I picked up that machine again? Something that would make the majority of people happy and save me time. I hardly ever get a request for a full on paint correction...I'll have to try the meguiars pads on my next correction though accumulator
 
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