Starting From Scratch: All Products Needed for Basic Complete Detail?

[ahheck01]

Hey all, it's time to pick up detailing again. I've missed it more than I can describe, and I've been so out-of-the-game since the days of using the original menzerna polishes and topping off with the klasse twins. I've got a PC with the upgraded counterbalance - pretty sure it was for 6.5" pads.



I need new clay and clay lube, compounds, polishes, PC pads, paint cleaner (like Klasse AIO), glazes, sealants, waxes, other LSPs, interior detailer, rubber trim treatment, wheel cleaner, tire cleaner, tire 'shine', glass cleaner, leather cleaner and conditioner (anything better than leatherique these days?), plastic headlight/taillight polish, carpet cleaner, engine bay degreaser, engine bay plastics blackening stuff (WD-40 still popular?), metal polish (for tailpipes), black plastic trim blackener (mid-90's BMW mouldings, anyone?), car wash soap or foam solution, etc. Am I forgetting everything?



If anyone is like I was a few years back, I know you guys stay up to date on the best of everything right now. If I'm going to detail my cars and a few of my friends' cars, but don't want to spend more than I have to (I don't need every single variance of a product line) - what would you make sure you have in your arsenal to make sure you can do a complete detail? Why?



Most helpful poster gets $30 paypalled to them after first paid detail! Thanks to all!



-Evan

 

[schiddy]

I'm a newb here, been researching so I can learn. Just made my first big order, I can point you in the direction of at least some stuff I've noticed is popular. Seems it's hard to get a straight answer on this forum because everyone has a different preference on products and there's just so many available these days.



Companies:

poorboysworld.com

chemical guys

Detailed Image - Premium Auto Detailing Supplies

autogeek



Waterless washing seems so much more common:

Optimum no rinse (also use for clay lube) = Optimum No Rinse Wash & Shine: clay lubricant, optimum rinseless wash, no rinse car wash, optimum detailing products



Most popular orbitals right now are the PC 7424XP, Griot's Garage 6", Megiuars G110v2, and the Flex 3401 being the best/most powerful but also the most expensive.



I've been recommended to use 4" Lake country Hydro-tech pads instead of standard 6" because it provides faster correction and the ability to correct things I might not be able to with 6" because of limits of power on the orbital.



Polishing combos I've seen people mention:

Megiuars M105/m205 (both on foam cutting pads, rarely see wool unless the car is really ****ed up)

Menzerna SIP/Final Polish/PO85RD

M105, IP, PO85RD



Trim cleaning/dressing:

I'd love to know this myself



Engine:

Autoglym’s Engine and parts cleaner

Many people using Megiuars or other brand APC's diluted differently for different jobs, using it for practically everything.



Glazes:

Don't see much on here as seems everyone corrects the paint so well they either don't need it or don't mention it, don't know which. What I have seen some mention are:

Poorboy's black hole

Chemical Guys EXTREME SHINE EZ~CREME GLAZE w/ACRYLIC SHINE II



Sealants:

AutoGlym Super Resin Polish (actually a polish, glaze, and sealant combined)

Klasse AIO (I'm assuming an AIO sealant product)

Blackfire Wet Diamond



Carnuba Waxes:

DoDo Juice Supernatural (Boutique wax brand, supposed to look good)

Collinite 845 (supposed really good protection for low price, looks decent)

Poorboys Natty blue (supposed good wax for money, looks good, but haven't heard about longevity)

 

[Accumulator]

Hey all, it's time to pick up detailing again. ...If anyone is like I was a few years back, I know you guys stay up to date on the best of everything right now. If I'm going to detail my cars and a few of my friends' cars, but don't want to spend more than I have to (I don't need every single variance of a product line) - what would you make sure you have in your arsenal to make sure you can do a complete detail? Why?

I suppose everybody has their favorites and their also-rans, but I'll suggest stuff that works great for me, along with a few products that I've yet to try but were recommended by people I trust 100%.

I've missed it more than I can describe, and I've been so out-of-the-game since the days of using the original menzerna polishes and topping off with the klasse twins. I've got a PC with the upgraded counterbalance - pretty sure it was for 6.5" pads...

Don't worry about the counterweight; it's not really significant (though I prefer the 6" weight with all sizes of plates/pads).



Use 5.5", or IMO *MUCH* better yet, 4" pads for correction.



Noting wrong with Menzerna followed by the Klasse twins. There are a few newer polishes that are worth considering though (mentioned below).

I need new clay and clay lube, compounds, polishes, PC pads, paint cleaner (like Klasse AIO), glazes, sealants, waxes, other LSPs,

Clay- my fave isn't sold in the US any more. I guess I'd just go with ClayMagic Blue for decontamination and I'd definitely go with Sonus Green and Glyde lube for very gentle cleaning that won't strip healthy LSPs.

Look into Meguiar's M105/M205 and/or the new spray-type products from Optimum.

Pads- 4" for correction, larger for AIO/LSP. Check out the new LC HydroTech line.

AIOs- KAIO, Zaion AIO, Autoglym SRP.

Sealants- KSG, FK1000P.

Waxes- Why bother if you use a sealant IMO. Eh, for protection go with Collinite (845 is great on exterior trim too) and for beauty go with whatever you like.

interior detailer, rubber trim treatment,

Meg's Interior QD, 1Z's similar stuff (Cockpit Premium?).

Wurth Rubber Care and/or one of the Gummi Pflege (sp?) sticks from Wurth or 1Z.

I treat exterior plastic with the Klasse twins or Collinite 845.

wheel cleaner, tire cleaner, tire 'shine',

Griot's or P21s or Autoglym Non-Acidic Wheel Cleaner. Meg's Wheel Brightener (be careful with it!!!) on really nasty wheels.

Tires- wheel cleaner or Griot's Rubber Cleaner or their Rubber Prep (expensive miracle product that's amazing).

Z16

glass cleaner,

I use Griot's.

leather cleaner and conditioner (anything better than leatherique these days?)

Dunno if it's "better" than Leatherique, but I like LeatherMasters. Sonus is OK for some situations, but the LM is my overall fave.

plastic headlight/taillight polish,

I just use polishes made for paint.

carpet cleaner,

Stuff from a pro carpet-cleaning supply store.

engine bay degreaser,

Citrus-based engine cleaners, solvents, P21s Total Auto Wash, Optimum PowerClean.

engine bay plastics blackening stuff (WD-40 still popular?),

Yuck, WD-40 film. I use Autoglym Bumper Care and 303.

For matte/satin black metal parts I use Black Fire's Gloss Enhancing Polish topped with their sealant; works like a charm and gives a special look that lasts.

metal polish (for tailpipes),

Polishes for paint or Meguiar's NXT line's Metyl (or however they spell it).

black plastic trim blackener (mid-90's BMW mouldings, anyone?),

I use a AIO/LSP based approach. On my '97 M3 I used KAIO topped with Collinite 845. I *do not* use dressings for stuff like this.

BTW, I used paint polishes, then AIO then 845 on the M3's black plastic "B" pillar surfaces.

car wash soap or foam solution, etc.

Griot's Car Wash.

Am I forgetting everything?

If you get stuff to cover the above categories you should be well-prepared.

 

[P-nut]

303 Aerospace Protectant is fantastic for everything that is rubber, plastic or vinyl. It's probably the most universally praised product and the one that has the most uses.



Just give your $30 to Accumulator.

 

[Chris-]

Thank you accum, thats quite the list!

 

[ahheck01]

Don't worry about the counterweight; it's not really significant (though I prefer the 6" weight with all sizes of plates/pads).



Use 5.5", or IMO *MUCH* better yet, 4" pads for correction.

So you'd keep the 6" counterweight on there when moving to a 4" backing plate and pads? That doesn't seem logical, but I trust you know what you're talking about. Let me know if I'm misunderstanding something, though.

AIOs- KAIO, Zaion AIO, Autoglym SRP.

Sealants- KSG, FK1000P.

KSG is still on top? As I left the scene a few years back it seemed like it was on its way out as something else began to take over the spotlight (something like UPP or something?)



If going the sealant route, what are the best steps here - is it still KAIO -> KSG as the best combo out there? Whatever the best combo is, what is the best topper, if any?

Waxes- Why bother if you use a sealant IMO. Eh, for protection go with Collinite (845 is great on exterior trim too) and for beauty go with whatever you like.

For customers it will be based on preference whether we do sealants or waxes. What would your top pick be for the following scenarios:

Protection only (you already said Collinite - any specifics?)

Best value (price/appearance/durability) on light colored cars

Best value on dark colored cars

Best appearance on dark cars

Best appearance on light cars



Also, do you believe in glazes at all? Red Moose Glaze and Vanilla Moose were hot a few years back, and I found them decent, but not fantastic. Open to suggestions. I know a few cars I'll be working on they'll come in handy - correction isn't worth the effort, so make it look the best it can for a few weeks before doing it again. Win-win if you ask me.

If you get stuff to cover the above categories you should be well-prepared.

One thing I forgot about is tools. In addition to the new PC accessories, what other tools are must-haves in terms of:

Wash Mits/Sponges/Thing you use to wash dirt off a car:

Buckets: (assuming the two-bucket method is still the best around?)

Power Washer (needed?):

Drying Microfibers and other drying-assistance-materials:

Wax-off/Polish-removing microfibers:

Wheel/Tire brushes:

Interior Trim brushes:

Carpet and leather cleaning paraphernalia:

Inexpensive car tent to throw up on a sunny day:





If you were put on a new planet with access to stores but nothing that you possess (other than funds to buy stuff), is there anything else than the above that you'd need to purchase to go out and do your first complete detail?



Just trying to be 100% thorough as I budget this out. Thank you!



-Evan

 

[Setec Astronomy]

KSG is still on top? As I left the scene a few years back it seemed like it was on its way out as something else began to take over the spotlight (something like UPP or something?)

You may be thinking about the "nano" products that superseded Klasse. They are sold in the US at: WERKSTAT: advancing the technology of automotive detailing

 

[Accumulator]

So you'd keep the 6" counterweight on there when moving to a 4" backing plate and pads? That doesn't seem logical, but I trust you know what you're talking about. Let me know if I'm misunderstanding something, though..

I oughta save this explanation to WORD so I won't have to type it so often :chuckle:



The PC was designed as a finish sander, for use with a single sheet of sandpaper stuck to the oe backing plate, and with zero applied pressure. We use often-heavier backing plates (even the little solid rubber ones weigh a bit), foam pads wet with product, and plenty of applied pressure; totally different from the originally-spec'ed application IMO.



I've been using the 6" counterweight with all sizes of pads for years with zero problems. But plenty of people say they can't tell any diff between the two weights and I figure that gets back to the "outside the box" way we're using the PCs. *IMO/IME* you can use whichever weight you like/have with only minimal functional differences that you might *possibly* notice.

KSG is still on top? As I left the scene a few years back it seemed like it was on its way out as something else began to take over the spotlight (something like UPP or something?)

Noting that I haven't tried every LSP out there...yeah, of the stuff that I have (and that includes UPP, which I use on my S8), *layered* KSG is on top for durability and protection...sometimes to an almost unbelievable extent.

If going the sealant route, what are the best steps here - is it still KAIO -> KSG as the best combo out there? Whatever the best combo is, what is the best topper, if any?

KAIO/KSG. Or ZAIO or Autoglym SRP topped with something else like FK1000P (very, *VERY* good sealant, probably the best for single-coat applications IMO).



I don't top sealants with waxes and I question the functional "advantages" of doing so. No, I don't buy the "added protection" argument as I'd rewax as soon as it's needed anyhow instead of relying on the underlying sealant to "keep on protecting". If you want wax-looks with durability/protection, just use Collinite paste wax.



If you *do* want to do a final wax topper, I'd pick the wax based on its general appearance characteristics (which is splitting hairs, most people/customers won't see a diff IMO); Souveran/M26 for depth/jetting, M16/P21s/etc. for brightness and reflections, and so on. Eh, I wouldn't bother myself, though I use SRP topped with Souveran on my Jag.

For customers it will be based on preference whether we do sealants or waxes. What would your top pick be for the following scenarios:

Protection only (you already said Collinite - any specifics?)

Noting again that I don't try all the myriad LSPs the way some here do...I'll take my shot anyhow (listed waxes;sealants)

Best value (price/appearance/durability) on light colored cars

Collinite 845 or Meguiars #16 (if you can find it); FK1000P

Best value on dark colored cars

Collinite 915 or 476S or Meguiar's #26; BlackFire

Best appearance on dark cars

Souveran or something (even more) exotic; BlackFire.

Best appearance on light cars

Meguiar's #16 or P21s, or Collinite 845; UPP, FK1000P.



But FWIW, I have FK1000P, a "light colors" sealant, on my Carbon Metallic GMC and it looks great. I had Collinite on it before and that looked fine too. Hairsplitting like this is 99% BS IMO, though I'll do it with the best (or worst!) of 'em where some vehicles are concerned (but then it's about *my* preferences, which others might not share).



IME UPP doesn't provide much protection against bugs/bird bombs; the paint etches pretty fast, so I'd go with the FK1000P instead.



You could probably just do every vehicle with Collinite and never have a dissatisfied customer.

Also, do you believe in glazes at all? Red Moose Glaze and Vanilla Moose were hot a few years back, and I found them decent, but not fantastic. Open to suggestions. I know a few cars I'll be working on they'll come in handy - correction isn't worth the effort, so make it look the best it can for a few weeks before doing it again. Win-win if you ask me

.



I don't use glazes much, but I only do my own vehicles. VM didn't impress me, never tried RM.



I haven't gotten around to trying it yet (sitting on the shelf), but I'd lean towards whatever the current version of Danase Wet Glaze is. That should cover all the "glaze bases" IMO.



FWIW, the Autoglym SRP does a fair bit of concealing, and SRP topped with Collinite was my "family and friends" combo when I used to do other people's cars.

One thing I forgot about is tools. In addition to the new PC accessories, what other tools are must-haves in terms of:

Wash Mits/Sponges/Thing you use to wash dirt off a car:

Buckets: (assuming the two-bucket method is still the best around?)

MY wash regimen is so off-the-deep-end that it might not be applicable to a commercial situation. I wash with a foamgun, always directing its output at the point where my wash medium touches the paint. First passes with a Boar's Hair Brush ("BHB")/foamgun, subsequent ones with a mitt/foamgun. If *I* were doing this stuff I'd still wash that way unless a vehicle already needed correction in a big way.



Whatever buckets you use (most of mine are the expensive rectangular ones from Griot's got 'em as gifts but others sell 'em cheaper), make sure they have decent casters on the bottom.



I'd consider using a decontamination system like AutoInt ValuGard's "ABC" or the stuff from FinishKare. The FK 1119 is a *great* "super shampoo" but it smells pretty bad; the ValuGard "A" is similar but I somehow sorta prefer the FK stuff.

Power Washer (needed?):

I'd get by without it (never bothered to replace my last one), but some folks would say it's mandatory and I wouldn't argue. Depends on what you're doing and how you want to do it. I *do* use a siphon-feel sprayer that hooks to my air compressor.

Drying Microfibers and other drying-assistance-materials:

My water-supply system won't do the "sheeting rinse", so I get most of the water off with myh AirWand and then dry with WWMFs (Ultra-soft ones from Aloha & Welcome to Our Oasis for All Your Auto Detailing, Auto Detailing Supplies, Auto Detailing Equipment, Auto Detailing Products, & Auto Detailing Accessories for all your Automobile Detailing ).

Wax-off/Polish-removing microfibers:

From Aloha & Welcome to Our Oasis for All Your Auto Detailing, Auto Detailing Supplies, Auto Detailing Equipment, Auto Detailing Products, & Auto Detailing Accessories for all your Automobile Detailing or West Coast Detail Supply Home

Wheel/Tire brushes:

Anybody's tire brushes, but some soft-compound tires are so fragile that you oughta use sponges. For wheels I use BHBs from Car Care, Detail Supplies, Garage Organization, Car Accessories - Griot's Garage 800-345-5789

Interior Trim brushes:

I got mine from, gee, I can't remember (many, many yeas ago). I believe they're horsehair. I also use various BHBs and swabs.

Carpet and leather cleaning paraphernalia:

Carpet- Ninja/Century extractor, Daimer 1500C steamer, chemicals from carpet-cleaning places or from Top of the Line Auto Detailing Supplies

Leather- I just use sponges/cloths and products from Leather Masters and/or Sonus.

Inexpensive car tent to throw up on a sunny day:

A friend of mine was very happy with an EZ-Up (sp?)

If you were put on a new planet with access to stores but nothing that you possess (other than funds to buy stuff), is there anything else than the above that you'd need to purchase to go out and do your first complete detail?

A Flex 3401 polisher.

A zillion swabs of different sizes/types.

Air compressor.

 

[ahheck01]

Noting that I haven't tried every LSP out there...yeah, of the stuff that I have (and that includes UPP, which I use on my S8), *layered* KSG is on top for durability and protection...sometimes to an almost unbelievable extent.

So it sounds like the Klasse twins with layered KSG is the best option if you're able to get correction pretty near perfect, and want the ultimate in durability and have the time to layer the KSG properly. Perhaps an ideal process for my personal car, not so much effective for customers. Agreed?

You could probably just do every vehicle with Collinite and never have a dissatisfied customer.

This caught my attention big-time. This sparked the question - is there a combination of steps/products that you would confidently say is a works-for-every-typical-vehicle combination? Like a safe go-to? You seem quite fond of Collinite as the best balance of durability and appearance - any particular product in their lineup that works the best universally for this? And what should come before it to maximize its appearance and durability?

FWIW, the Autoglym SRP does a fair bit of concealing, and SRP topped with Collinite was my "family and friends" combo when I used to do other people's cars.

This may be the answer to the last question above, depending on which Collinite you're referring to as the family and friends go-to. So wash > clay > correct > SRP > Collinite (#?) is the universally successful detail these days for most friends/family/casual customer?

MY wash regimen is so off-the-deep-end that it might not be applicable to a commercial situation. I wash with a foamgun, always directing its output at the point where my wash medium touches the paint. First passes with a Boar's Hair Brush ("BHB")/foamgun, subsequent ones with a mitt/foamgun. If *I* were doing this stuff I'd still wash that way unless a vehicle already needed correction in a big way.



Whatever buckets you use (most of mine are the expensive rectangular ones from Griot's got 'em as gifts but others sell 'em cheaper), make sure they have decent casters on the bottom.



I'd consider using a decontamination system like AutoInt ValuGard's "ABC" or the stuff from FinishKare. The FK 1119 is a *great* "super shampoo" but it smells pretty bad; the ValuGard "A" is similar but I somehow sorta prefer the FK stuff.

Shoot me straight here - do I need to seriously consider a foamgun system? If so, what's the best value, and are there any threads that would teach me the best process for the above? You gave several wash-related suggestions, and I feel a bit lost still as to what combination of what I need to consider.



Again, thank you very, very much. Your helpfulness is unsurpassed, and I look forward to showing my appreciation with a cut of my first customer



-Evan

 

[Accumulator]

So it sounds like the Klasse twins with layered KSG is the best option if you're able to get correction pretty near perfect, and want the ultimate in durability and have the time to layer the KSG properly. Perhaps an ideal process for my personal car, not so much effective for customers. Agreed?

Agreed, 100%. If you want to use a sealant on a customer's car, I'd go with FK1000P (which I do think you oughta consider having on hand) Note that something like Zaino AIO (or SRP) topped with FK1000P can be great for wheels/chrome/etc. too.

This caught my attention big-time. This sparked the question - is there a combination of steps/products that you would confidently say is a works-for-every-typical-vehicle combination? Like a safe go-to? You seem quite fond of Collinite as the best balance of durability and appearance - any particular product in their lineup that works the best universally for this? And what should come before it to maximize its appearance and durability?...[something along the lines of a].. wash > clay > correct > SRP > Collinite (#?) is the universally successful detail these days for most friends/family/casual customer?

Noting that it's a pretty half-@$$ed approach from the "Autopian perspective"....wash/clay/one-step correction if you have time (something like M80 or M205 on LC tangerine hydrotech or a similar approach with Menzerna stuff or the new Optimum spray-polish)/SRP/Collinite 845 or 476S or FK1000P.

This may be the answer to the last question above, depending on which Collinite you're referring to as the family and friends go-to.

Either 476S paste (very durable) or 845 (pretty durable and *VERY* user-friendly).

Shoot me straight here - do I need to seriously consider a foamgun system? If so, what's the best value, and are there any threads that would teach me the best process for the above? You gave several wash-related suggestions, and I feel a bit lost still as to what combination of what I need to consider.

I honestly don't know what to tell ya :think: SOOOO many other people do OK without the foamgun, and I'm a bit of a nut about wash-induced marring.



I've yet to rewrite my "Accumulator's Non-marring Wash Technique" thread/article, but you might be able to find the old version here somewhere. The relevant stuff would probably be on the second page or so.



The idea is that the foamgun provides constant flushing and lubrication, so abrasive dirt gets knocked loose and flushed away; my rinse water stays very clean even when I do a filthy vehicle.



Sorry if this sounds like a blow-off, but to rehash my wash technique here would just be too big of an undertaking (the short version might take up a whole page or even more).



Some tips (besides using the foamgun): more the wash medium in short, interrupted motions so dirt has a greater chance of getting flushed away and so that any marring that does happen will be short little scratches instead of long, sweeping ones. Ditto for drying- avoid long, sweeping motions. Fill the wash mitt with shampoo solution so it seeps out (more lubrication/flushing), and hold the mitt shut at the cuff. Whisk it across the surface that way instead of wearing it like a glove, and stop to rinse/refill as soon as all the solution has seeped out.



No idea who has the best price on a foamgun (or on anything else...I'm not really a price-conscious shopper), but I guess I'd try We Are Car Care -- Car Wax, Car Polish, Auto Detailing Supplies, Car Buffers & Car Accessories Store

Again, thank you very, very much. Your helpfulness is unsurpassed, and I look forward to showing my appreciation with a cut of my first customer



-Evan

Glad to help. Should you feel compelled to express your appreciation monetarily, please send the $ to either Military Working Dogs - Cooling Vest Project or Protect.org .

 

[ahheck01]

Okay, so I'm developing a textual walk-through of the entire detailing process to identify what products and tools I'll need to purchase, and identify any further questions I have. We'll start with interior. Questions remaining are at the bottom:



Processes



Wash exterior:

1) Spray tires/wheels with cleaner (P21s)

2) Agitate tires/wheels with brush(es)

3) Foam whole car with Foam Gun

4) Let sit for 5 min

5) Rinse

6) Foam whole car again

7) Using Boar's Hair Brush, soaked in wash solution, wipe off entire car, top to bottom, regularly rinsing and again soaking brush in was solution.

7) Rinse



Dry Exterior:

1) Water Blade

2) Waffle Weave Microfiber

3) Separate Waffle-Weave MF for Jambs, etc.



Perfect Paint:

1) Clay w/ClayMagic Blue

(If Needed)

2) M105 via PC with 4" Blue LC Hydro-Tech Pad

(If Needed)

3) M205 via PC with 4" Orange ^ Pad

4) Klasse AIO with 4" Red ^ Pad and by hand where needed

(If Needed)

5) Wet Glaze 2.0 with Red ^ Pad

6) Collinite 845 Insulator Wax with Red Pad and by hand where needed

7) 2nd Layer Collinite 845 after 60 min

8) 3rd Layer Collinite 845 after a full wash a week or so later.



Wheels/Tires:

1) Dress wheel wells

2) Dress tires

3) Wipe down wheels with MF towel

4) KAIO by hand

5) FK1000P



Exterior Windows:

1) Clay Bar (with rest of car)

2) Klasse AIO applied by PC w/ Red LCHT pad





Shopping List



Tools:

Hose: Already have some

Foam Gun: ?

Boar's Hair Brush for Car Wash: ?

Two buckets with grit guards: Wal-Mart specials

Brush for Cleaning Tires: ?

Brush for Cleaning Wheels: ?

Water Blade: California Water Blade

Waffle Weave MicroFiber Drying Towels: ?

Detailing Brush for Door Jambs: ?

Tape: Regular Painters Tape

Halogen Lights: Home Depot specials

Pads: Lake Country Hydro-Tech Pads:

- Medium Cut: Blue Pads (x2)

- Light Cut: Orange Pads (x2)

- Finishing: Red Pads (x3)

Backing Plate: 3.5" Flexible DA Backing Plate



Chemicals/Abrasives:

Car Wash Soap: ?

Foam Gun Soap (if different): ?

Wheel/Tire Cleaner: P21s Wheel Cleaner

ClayBar: ClayMagic Blue

Clay Lube: ?

Medium-Cut Compound: Meguiars M105

Light-Cut Polish: Meguiars M205

Chemical Cleaner: Klasse All-In-One

Glaze: Wet Glaze 2.0

Sealant: FK1000P

Wax: Collinite Insulator Wax (845)

Tire Dressing: ?





Questions:



1) Do you just use the normal car wash solution in the foam gun, same as the wash buckets?

2) Does P21s wheel cleaner work great for tires too?

3) Everything that has a ? means I haven't yet identified what the best solution is at this point. I'd like to spend the least possible without preventing me from doing a great job, or making it exponentially harder on myself to do so. Value is the key word. Recommendations on any of them?

 

[Accumulator]

Okay, so I'm developing a textual walk-through of the entire detailing process to identify what products and tools I'll need to purchase, and identify any further questions I have. We'll start with interior. Questions remaining are at the bottom:



Processes..

Some of my repsonses will be awfully brief as a more complete explanation would be too much to develope/type in at this point...

Wash exterior:

1) Spray tires/wheels with cleaner (P21s)

2) Agitate tires/wheels with brush(es)

3) Foam whole car with Foam Gun

4) Let sit for 5 min

5) Rinse

6) Foam whole car again

7) Using Boar's Hair Brush, soaked in wash solution, wipe off entire car, top to bottom, regularly rinsing and again soaking brush in was solution.

7) Rinse

I wouldn't do a long pre-soak. Spray the foamgun's output on, then start washing. Spray the foamgun while moving the BHB/mitt across the panel, aiming at the point of wash medium-to-paint contact. You'll have to follow the BHB wash with one using a mitt because, *used properly*, the BHB is too gentle for effective/complete cleaning; it just gets the "big stuff" off safely. Again, my wash regimen might not be right for a commercial undertaking.

Dry Exterior:

1) Water Blade

2) Waffle Weave Microfiber

3) Separate Waffle-Weave MF for Jambs, etc.

I wouldn't use a waterblade, too great a risk of instilling a bad scratch (though it took many, many washes before that happened to me). I use (very soft, 100%) cotton towels for the doorjambs.

Perfect Paint:

1) Clay w/ClayMagic Blue

(If Needed)

2) M105 via PC with 4" Blue LC Hydro-Tech Pad

(If Needed)

3) M205 via PC with 4" Orange ^ Pad

4) Klasse AIO with 4" Red ^ Pad and by hand where needed

(If Needed)

5) Wet Glaze 2.0 with Red ^ Pad

6) Collinite 845 Insulator Wax with Red Pad and by hand where needed

7) 2nd Layer Collinite 845 after 60 min

8) 3rd Layer Collinite 845 after a full wash a week or so later.

Rather than use KAIO + glaze, I'd just use Autoglym SRP. KAIO is good to have for trim and other things, but doing all those steps *after* doing the correction is too much IMO. Also, I wouldn't do two coats of 845 the same day; if I wanted to do two coats of LSP I'd do 845 and then 476S or maybe 915. And then I wouldn't bother with the additional coat of 845 until/unless it seems necessary.



The above is for your car; for customers do the SRP/Collinite combo and call it quits. And that's *IF* the SRP/etc. is necessary after the polishing. Only do what really needs to be done, don't waste time/effort/product/money (and IMO that goes for your own car too).

Wheels/Tires:

1) Dress wheel wells

2) Dress tires

3) Wipe down wheels with MF towel

4) KAIO by hand

5) FK1000P

Might want to use something with a bit of cut instead of the KAIO, I'd rather use the ZAIO or SRP.

Exterior Windows:

1) Clay Bar (with rest of car)

2) Klasse AIO applied by PC w/ Red LCHT pad

I don't put anything on glass, but that's just me. Note that some customers might feel the way I do...

Shopping List



Tools:

Again, I have no idea who has the best prices...

Foam Gun: ?

Autogeek

Boar's Hair Brush for Car Wash: ?

Griot's (see my BHB comparison thread).

Brush for Cleaning Tires: ?

Griot's BHB for wheels.

Brush for Cleaning Wheels: ?

Anybody's, I probably got mine from TOL or Griot's.

Waffle Weave MicroFiber Drying Towels: ?

PakShak

Detailing Brush for Door Jambs: ?

Small BHB from Griot's.

Tape: Regular Painters Tape

Buy good 3M stuff, not generic. Yeah, it matters.

Pads: Lake Country Hydro-Tech Pads:

- Medium Cut: Blue Pads (x2)

- Light Cut: Orange Pads (x2)

- Finishing: Red Pads (x3)

You'll need a *LOT more cyan and tangerine pads, especially the former.

Chemicals/Abrasives:

Car Wash Soap: ?

Griot's, Optimum, Duragloss (best-to-worst).

Foam Gun Soap (if different): ?

Mix up a gallon of concentrate at 6 oz. per gallon total, fill foamgun from that, adjust strength via the gun's settings.

Clay Lube: ?

Most people would use shampoo mix.

Tire Dressing: ?

Z16

Questions:



1) Do you just use the normal car wash solution in the foam gun, same as the wash buckets?

As per above.

2) Does P21s wheel cleaner work great for tires too?

So-so. I'd also have some rubber cleaner.

3) Everything that has a ?...

I tried to hit the highpoints of those and whatever else caught my eye. Note that some stuff is personal preference...like M105/M205 vs. the new Optimum Spray products and the KAIO vs. ZAIO/SRP question.

 

[Accumulator]

Something we haven't touched on is experience and other considerations related to the human element. I.e., it took me a *LOT* of washes before I got my foamgun-centric wash technique sorted out, and I don't mean just ten or twelve.



Find a Cliff's Notes version of the Kevin Brown Method and study up on how to polish with M105/M205...there are a lot of things you should *not* do and a few that you really *oughta* do.



I don't consider this stuff rocket science, or some mystical art, but it's not always as simple or straightforward as one might expect.

 

[ahheck01]

Okay, so I've updated the process and the shopping list to reflect your advice and further research. I'll put together something similar for the interior here shortly. Let me know if I missed anything here:



Processes



Wash exterior:

1) Spray tires/wheels with cleaner (P21s)

2) Agitate tires/wheels with brush(es)

3) Foam whole car with Foam Gun

4) Using Boar's Hair Brush, soaked in wash solution, wipe off entire car, top to bottom, regularly rinsing and again soaking brush in was solution. Have foam blasting where brush meets paint

5) Rinse

6) Using Wash Mit, Wash again with same process

7) Rinse



Dry Exterior:

1) Waffle Weave Microfiber

2) Soft Cotton Towel for door jambs, etc.



Perfect Paint:

1) Clay w/ClayMagic Blue

(If Needed)

2) M105 via PC with 4" Blue LC Hydro-Tech Pad

(If Needed)

3) M205 via PC with 4" Orange ^ Pad

4) Autoglym SRP with 4" Red ^ Pad and by hand where needed

(If Needed)

5) Collinite 845 Insulator Wax with Red Pad and by hand where needed

6) 2nd Layer Collinite 845 after a day



Wheels/Tires:

1) Dress wheel wells

2) Dress tires

3) Wipe down wheels with MF towel

4) KAIO by hand

5) FK1000P



Exterior Windows:

1) Clay Bar (with rest of car)

2) Invisible Glass to remove remaining smudges etc.



Shopping List



Tools: $436

Hose: Already have some

Foam Gun: Autogeek Quart Foamaster - $60

Boar's Hair Brush for Car Wash: Griot's - $60

Wash Mit: ? - $10

Two buckets with grit guards: Wal-Mart specials - $15

Brush for Cleaning Tires: (See below)

Brush for Cleaning Wheels: Griot's BHB for Wheels - $23

Waffle Weave MicroFiber Drying Towels: PakShak 24"x36" Waffle Weave MF - $14.50 x 3 = $53.50

Other Microfiber: PaKShak 16"x16" Ultra Micro towels - $3.50 x 9 = $31.50

Detailing Brush for Door Jambs: Set of Two Small BHB's from Griots - $20

Tape: 3M Painters Tape - $10

Halogen Lights: Home Depot specials - $50

Pads: Lake Country Hydro-Tech Pads: $90

- Medium Cut: Cyan Pads (x6)

- Light Cut: Tangerine Pads (x6)

- Finishing: Red Pads (x3)

Backing Plate: 3.5" Flexible DA Backing Plate - $13



Chemicals/Abrasives - $151

Car Wash Soap: Optimum 32 oz Regular Wash - $12 (will upgrade after first few jobs)

Wheel Cleaner: P21s Wheel Cleaning Gel, 1L - $23

Tire Cleaner: Griot's Rubber Cleaner 8oz - $5

ClayBar: ClayMagic Blue, 200g - $25

Clay Lube: (Car Soap)

Medium-Cut Compound: Meguiars M105 8oz - $7

Light-Cut Polish: Meguiars M205 8oz - $7

Chemical Cleaner: Autoglym SRP 16.9oz - $15

Glaze: Wet Glaze 2.0 16oz - $22

Sealant: Finish Kare 1000P 15oz - $16

Wax: Collinite Insulator Wax (845) 1pint - $19

Tire Dressing: Zaino Z-16 16oz - $13



Total Shopping List: $587 + shipping

 

[ahheck01]

Okay, now that we've quantified exterior work, on to the interior. Same process - I welcome a critique of processes, and a heads up where I forgot something, and then product suggestions where there are "?"s.



Processes



Interior Windows:

1) Invisible Glass w/TShirt



Interior Carpets:

1) Shop-Vac everything

2) Brush carpet dry to loosen dirt with Carpet Brush

3) Vacuum again

4) Shampoo + Hot Water worked into carpet with Carpet Brush

5) Shop-Vac to suck up dirt and moisture slowly

6) Use cotton towel to dry further

7) Once dry, apply protectant



Dash board, Clusters, Vents:

1) Wipe loose dirt and dust down with wet MF towel

1b) Use diluted Meguiars APC as needed

2) Use various detailing brushes to clean in seams in dash and in vents

3) Wipe everything down with Meguiars QID



Leather Seats:

1) Shop-Vac

2) Brush crumbs etc. out with small brush/toothbrush

3) Work Leather Cleaner in with sponge

4) Wipe off with damp sponge

5) Dry with dry cotton towel

6) Massage in Leather Conditioner



Misc:

1) GP on rubber seals





Shopping List



Tools:

Old/Clean Lint-Free Tshirts: Got'em

Shop-Vac: ?

Shop-Vac Extensions: ?

Carpet/Upholstry Brush: ?

Cotton Towels: ?

Microfiber Towels: PaKShak 16"x16" Ultra Micro towels

Interior Detailing Brushes: ?

Toothbrush: Have a few extras

Sponge to work in Conditioner: ?



Product:

Carpet Cleaner: ?

Dash/Plastics Cleaner: Meguiars APC

Carpet Protectant:

Leather Cleaner: ?

Leather Conditioner: ?

Rubber Seal Conditioner: Gummi Pfledg



Questions:

1) I see LeatherMasters has various kits. Should I just get a kit, or is it possible to order the individually needed products?

2) Are there any other tools or processes I didn't include to have everything for an interior detail? That is of course assuming I won't be getting an extractor or air compressor.

 

[ahheck01]

Okay, so with interior and exterior, here is the total shopping list - open to critiques and suggestions!!



Shopping List



Exterior



Tools: $436

Hose: Already have some

Foam Gun: Autogeek Quart Foamaster - $60

Boar's Hair Brush for Car Wash: Griot's - $60

Wash Mit: ? - $10

Two buckets with grit guards: Wal-Mart specials - $15

Brush for Cleaning Tires: (See below)

Brush for Cleaning Wheels: Griot's BHB for Wheels - $23

Waffle Weave MicroFiber Drying Towels: PakShak 24"x36" Waffle Weave MF - $14.50 x 3 = $53.50

Other Microfiber: PaKShak 16"x16" Ultra Micro towels - $3.50 x 9 = $31.50

Detailing Brush for Door Jambs: Set of Two Small BHB's from Griots - $20

Tape: 3M Painters Tape - $10

Halogen Lights: Home Depot specials - $50

Pads: Lake Country Hydro-Tech Pads: $90

- Medium Cut: Cyan Pads (x6)

- Light Cut: Tangerine Pads (x6)

- Finishing: Red Pads (x3)

Backing Plate: 3.5" Flexible DA Backing Plate - $13



Chemicals/Abrasives - $151

Car Wash Soap: Optimum 32 oz Regular Wash - $12 (will upgrade after first few jobs)

Wheel Cleaner: P21s Wheel Cleaning Gel, 1L - $23

Tire Cleaner: Griot's Rubber Cleaner 8oz - $5

ClayBar: ClayMagic Blue, 200g - $25

Clay Lube: (Car Soap)

Medium-Cut Compound: Meguiars M105 8oz - $7

Light-Cut Polish: Meguiars M205 8oz - $7

Chemical Cleaner: Autoglym SRP 16.9oz - $15

Glaze: Wet Glaze 2.0 16oz - $22

Sealant: Finish Kare 1000P 15oz - $16

Wax: Collinite Insulator Wax (845) 1pint - $19

Tire Dressing: Zaino Z-16 16oz - $13



Interior



Tools - $53

Old/Clean Lint-Free Tshirts: Got'em

Shop-Vac: ?

Shop-Vac Extensions: ?

Carpet/Upholstry Brush: Griots Nylon Brush - $8

Microfiber Towels: PaKShak 16"x16" Ultra Micro towels - $3.50 x 6 = $21

Interior Detailing Brushes: Set of Two Small BHB's from Griots - $20

Toothbrush: Have a few extras

Sponge to work in Conditioner: Wal-Mart Special - $4



Product - $50

Carpet Cleaner: Folex - $8

Dash/Plastics Cleaner: Meguiars APC 1Gal - $11

Dash/Plastics Topper: Meguiars Quick Interior Detailier 16oz - $5

Carpet Protectant: none for now

Leather Cleaner: Meguiars APC (see above)

Leather Conditioner: Zaino Z-10 8oz - $11

Rubber Seal Conditioner: Wurth Rubber Care Gel Stick - $15



Total: $690 + Shop Vac + Shipping

 

[ahheck01]

Okay, so with interior and exterior, here is the total shopping list - open to critiques and suggestions!!



Shopping List



Exterior



Tools: $436

Hose: Already have some

Foam Gun: Autogeek Quart Foamaster - $60

Boar's Hair Brush for Car Wash: Griot's - $60

Wash Mit: ? - $10

Two buckets with grit guards: Wal-Mart specials - $15

Brush for Cleaning Tires: (See below)

Brush for Cleaning Wheels: Griot's BHB for Wheels - $23

Waffle Weave MicroFiber Drying Towels: PakShak 24"x36" Waffle Weave MF - $14.50 x 3 = $53.50

Other Microfiber: PaKShak 16"x16" Ultra Micro towels - $3.50 x 9 = $31.50

Detailing Brush for Door Jambs: Set of Two Small BHB's from Griots - $20

Tape: 3M Painters Tape - $10

Halogen Lights: Home Depot specials - $50

Pads: Lake Country Hydro-Tech Pads: $90

- Medium Cut: Cyan Pads (x6)

- Light Cut: Tangerine Pads (x6)

- Finishing: Red Pads (x3)

Backing Plate: 3.5" Flexible DA Backing Plate - $13



Chemicals/Abrasives - $151

Car Wash Soap: Optimum 32 oz Regular Wash - $12 (will upgrade after first few jobs)

Wheel Cleaner: P21s Wheel Cleaning Gel, 1L - $23

Tire Cleaner: Griot's Rubber Cleaner 8oz - $5

ClayBar: ClayMagic Blue, 200g - $25

Clay Lube: (Car Soap)

Medium-Cut Compound: Meguiars M105 8oz - $7

Light-Cut Polish: Meguiars M205 8oz - $7

Chemical Cleaner: Autoglym SRP 16.9oz - $15

Glaze: Wet Glaze 2.0 16oz - $22

Sealant: Finish Kare 1000P 15oz - $16

Wax: Collinite Insulator Wax (845) 1pint - $19

Tire Dressing: Zaino Z-16 16oz - $13



Interior



Tools - $173

Old/Clean Lint-Free Tshirts: Got'em

Shop-Vac: Ridgid 4 Gal, 5hp Portable Vac - $80

Shop-Vac Extensions: Ridgid Car Cleaning Kit - $40

Carpet/Upholstry Brush: Griots Nylon Brush - $8

Microfiber Towels: PaKShak 16"x16" Ultra Micro towels - $3.50 x 6 = $21

Interior Detailing Brushes: Set of Two Small BHB's from Griots - $20

Toothbrush: Have a few extras

Sponge to work in Conditioner: Wal-Mart Special - $4



Product - $50

Carpet Cleaner: Folex - $8

Dash/Plastics Cleaner: Meguiars APC 1Gal - $11

Dash/Plastics Topper: Meguiars Quick Interior Detailier 16oz - $5

Carpet Protectant: none for now

Leather Cleaner: Meguiars APC (see above)

Leather Conditioner: Zaino Z-10 8oz - $11

Rubber Seal Conditioner: Wurth Rubber Care Gel Stick - $15



Total: $810 + Shipping

 

[Accumulator]

Ahheck01- I probably won't be of much help here as I never have to do much to my interiors; they just don't get very dirty (even the dog-haulers). I *do* have to do a big cleanup when I buy a used vehicle, so the following is based on that, but I don't buy vehicles that aren't awfully nice. People like David Fermani know a lot more about how to do this stuff than I ever will.



Autopia is *SO SLOW* that I can't do my usual Quote/response type of reply...



I use use my Daimer 1500C steamer and my Century/Ninja extractor. I don't use compressed air all that much because I don't want to blow stuff around and no, I don't clean my dash vents that way (but that's just me), but rather use swabs and even disassemble the ductwork if it's really necessary to clean inside there...but it hardly ever is.



I scrub floormats/carpet with brushes on my Cyclo polisher.



I use Griot's Interior Cleaner for most cleaning. It's quite mild and I dunno what I'd use on something really nasty, probaly Optimum's PowerClean (last time I used P21S TAW and the steamer).



I'd get the LM kit and see how you like it. I hardly *EVER* treat/condition/protect leather. Hardly ever do a real cleaning either, but that's just a matter of how my vehicles get used.



I virtually *NEVER* treat interior plastics/vinyl. Honestly can't remember the last time I did it. I just do a quick wipe with Meguiar's Interior QD or 1Z Cockpit Premium.



I don't use carpet protector products.



I use whatever sponges/etc. I have around, nothing special. I use old horsehair brushes for some leather cleaning, but otherwise just use BHBs or natural-bristle toothbrushes (check out The Vermont Country Store, but their shipping is very expensive).



I do like Wurth Rubber Care on seals/etc. and I like their Gummi stick better than the 1Z one (which isn't bad by any means).



I use MFs for most interior tasks as they're less likely to leave (obvious) lint.



I use Griot's Polypropylene window wipes and Griot's Window Cleaner.



I use very mild polishes made for paint on interior wood and protect same with regular LSPs. Plexus or Plastic-X on scratched plastic lenses. That's when I bother do do stuff like this, usually the wood/lenses don't bother me.