SSR 3.0 Hazing -- ID it and solution ?

HondaMan

HondaMan

2004 Civic EX magnesium
I tried some SSR 3 on a scratch on a 2004 Honda Accord (grey color). I did 2 passes for about 20-30 seconds each time at speeds 5 & 6.

Well, it faded the scratch somewhat but when I went back to detailing, after using some AIO I noticed a 2" x 3" faded area right above the scratch. Well, I am a bit nervous as I was under the impression that a PC, Orange Cutting Pad and SSR 3 didn't pose any danger to the car's finish. Now I'm not so sure.

Is it possible the SSR 3.0 + the PC were too much? I may have not been too motionful on the first pass -- the PC may have been stationary for the remainder of the 1st pass. But I didn't use a rotary which I know must be kept in motion.

Am I overreacting to what is hazing? I never saw this before with SSR 2.5 or the others, what should I do next? Do I strip the sealants and use the PC with SSR 2.5, then 2.0, then 1 -- go down the scales -- to get rid of this hazing (assuming it is hazing).

:mad:
 
SSR3 and a cutting pad will definitely haze the paint. SSR2 and a polishing pad should do the trick. SSR1 may not be enough to remove it.
 
:yeah
SSR 3 is pretty agressive stuff ...
When you work the paint with more agressive compounds/polishes hazing will occur.
SSR 2 will definitely restore the shine ... If you want an even better shine hit with SSR 1 after that.
 
kimwallace said:
:yeah SSR 3 is pretty agressive stuff ...
When you work the paint with more agressive compounds/polishes hazing will occur. SSR 2 will definitely restore the shine ... If you want an even better shine hit with SSR 1 after that.
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Thanks guys, I nearly had a heart attack!

OK, here's the deal: the PC and SSR's were put away and with light fast-fading, I couldn't do more work anyway. Did the rest of the car with SG in his garage and had trouble just seeing that in the lousy lighting.

I'm going back tomorrow to put on a 2nd coat of SG. Assuming the hazing is still there (all I did was go over it with some AIO/SG), what's my game plan? Remember, the hazing is "sealed in" (accidentally) so I'm thinking:

(1) Use AIO on the rear passenger door with the scratches (hit just part of the door or the whole door?)

(2) SSR 2.5 (and maybe SSR 2 ? SSR 1?) with the PC 7424. I'm assuming speed of 4 or 5 ?

(3) Assuming hazing is now gone, AIO it back up and then a coat of SG. Rest of car and/or door will have 2 coats but shouldn't be too noticeable.

Reasonable game plan?
 
MattZ28 said:
SSR3 and a cutting pad will definitely haze the paint. SSR2 and a polishing pad should do the trick. SSR1 may not be enough to remove it.
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I used a SONUS Orange Cutting pad with the 3.0 (after trying it with 2.5)....if I go back to SSR 2.5 tomorrow, should I use my Edge Blue Polishing pad or stick with the cutting pad ?
 
Do not use a cutting pad. You need a less abrasive combination to remove the hazing created by the cutting pad/SSR3 combo. Do you have the entire Sonus DAS pad line? If so, I would use SSR2.5 with the Sonus Blue pad, apply pressure at first and work your way to little or no pressure. If done right, you will be able to go straight to AIO from 2.5. If 2.5 does not get rid of all hazing, a follow up with SSR1 and Sonus green pad will finish the job.
 
TW85 said:
Do not use a cutting pad. You need a less abrasive combination to remove the hazing created by the cutting pad/SSR3 combo. Do you have the entire Sonus DAS pad line? If so, I would use SSR2.5 with the Sonus Blue pad, apply pressure at first and work your way to little or no pressure. If done right, you will be able to go straight to AIO from 2.5. If 2.5 does not get rid of all hazing, a follow up with SSR1 and Sonus green pad will finish the job.
Click to expand...

Thanks, I do have the blue pad, was saving it, but will use it if need be. I used the Edge Blue (polishing) pad once a few weeks ago and was using that for "other" cars and the SONUS line for mine but I can use the SONUS line on my brothers.

Thanks a bunch guys. Will let you know how it turns out.
 
Yeah, don't bother using AIO + polishing + AIO again. Just get straight to polishing..... SSR2.5 w/a polishing pad, then AIO+SG.
 
From my experience with the PC/DACP: I am a begginer but these may be helpful, Its basicly what I have learned after hours of working with the above products.

-When I first started I was moving the PC a little to fast, Move Slooowly! Give the PC and polish a chance to do there job.
-Products take much longer to break down using a PC, Work the product for several minutes.. stopping to soon will leave you with more micro marring or hazing.
-Spread the polish evenly on setting 3, you could move your arms a bit faster here.
-After product is spread, move up to setting 4-5 and add about 5-6 pounds of pressure (not to much) Enough to secure the machine to the finish, and Move Slooowly. Let up on pressure during your last 2-3 passes moving your arms a tad faster.When adding and removing pressure you will hear the machine sound change slightly. The machine shouldn't BOG and strain to hard, just a slight difference. (hope this makes some sense)
-I found the longer I worked DACP, the less hazing I got, Although my experiences tell me that PC/DACP no matter how long worked will leave some micro marring, not necessarily a haze.

Hope This Helps!

The guys have given you great advice. Remember always use the least aggressive method to get the job done. I don't know how abbrasive SSR3 is or the pad you used, and how much you have removed from your clear coat. But I would think SSR2 would remove the hazing.
 
MattZ28 said:
Yeah, don't bother using AIO + polishing + AIO again. Just get straight to polishing..... SSR2.5 w/a polishing pad, then AIO+SG.
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Gotcha...actually, it would be kinda dumb to strip the layers with AIO since it puts down a layer itself....I would think PB PP would be the better choice.
 
No...you don't need to strip the layers. SSR2 will do that for you.

DACP = Meguiar's #83 Dual Action Cleaner Polish
 
I have never use the SSR's But I will be ordering a kit soon.:D I have only tried Poorboy's Polish with Carnuba and EXP and I am very Pleased.

Many have described DACP and SSR 2.5 to be very equal in Abbrasiveness. What I posted above is what I learned, and could be used as general tips for polishing, I wish I knew this before I started.
 
MattZ28 said:
No...you don't need to strip the layers. SSR2 will do that for you.
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Yup, another brain-lock...I was thinking I wanted the SSR 2.0 to hit the haze directly and have something else cut through the sealant. Bullseye, it can do both. Thanks !
 
One more question...if I decide to hit the scratches again, how many passes with the PC and SSR3.0 would you think should be enough to determine if the scratch is removable and/or how many times can I hit it without risking damage to the paint/clearcoat? (remember: when I hit the little scratches with the PC, I'm hitting a much larger surface area with the PC and my 6" pads when I go back and forth)

So far, I did 2 passes with the PC, an Orange SONUS cutting pad, and SSR 3.0 at speeds of 5 & 6 for about 20 seconds each time. I also rubbed some SSR 3.0 by hand for a few seconds and also tried Scratch-X (by hand).

I also presume that using a polishing pad and/or slower speeds defeats the purpose of using SSR 3.0.
 
ok..well here are some of my thoughts...first if you are going to use SSR3 then 20 seconds at warp speed will do nothing but leave a haze...the product needs to be fully worked in and broken down. Second use a polising pad not a cutting pad unless the finish is totallly trashed or has really bad swirls everywhere.
Third , definitely follow up with SSR2.5 or SSR2 with a polishing pad for best results, and then SSR1 if this is your own personal car...
Let me know how it works out:)
 
Thanks Poorboy...the car is a 9-month old garaged Honda Accord 2004....only 7,000 miles, one of their grey or off-grey colors, kept in good condition (due to garaging) but not detailed (maybe water washed once or twice).

Am I to understand that you don't think 20-30 seconds is LONG ENOUGH to hit the scratch with PC/Orange/SSR 3.0 ?? How long to break the abrasives down (I did feel them in my hand coming out of the bottle, but I didn't check to see if it had "broken down" on the door when I finished. I just assumed it had). Again, I was probably being cautious because this is a new/good car and the PC/Orange/SSR 3.0 were the most aggressive I had ever used this before. Other times were 10-year old black Camry with PC/Orange/SSR 2.0 and 3-year old silver Mitsubishi Galant PC/Orange/SSR 1.0. This car is a step-up in quality and my brother's keeping it a long time. That's why the whole thing with the hazing freaked me out before I remembered the posts on hazing (thank god). :)
 
I have worked every polish I have used until it is just about transparent with pretty good results. Minimal hazing and very little marring.
 
TW85 said:
I have worked every polish I have used until it is just about transparent with pretty good results. Minimal hazing and very little marring.
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Very little marring? Could you elaborate? Sounds like there's a tradeoff....
 
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