Spit Shining and with what product
- Thread starter DM101
- Start date
Bill D
Hooked For Life
A low solvent carnauba wax ( P21s, S100, Souveran, etc), MF applicators, ( per the original posted technique) distilled water or for more enhancement, a carnauba QD ( Crystal Mist, Speed Shine, Sonus carnauba spritz) Make sure the wax and the water/QD is chilled in the fridge. ( that's how it says to do it, anyway)
Miami_vice
New member
you can use any QD i prefer Adams Detal Spray. All you do is spray the surface (fine mist) and buff away. Works good with wax that has dried to the surface.
imported_Adamah1
New member
Miami_vice said:
Theres a difference between spit shining and using a QD or water to aid removal of a product. Makes me wonder how many people claim to spit shine a product but in actuality dont even know what "spit shine" means.
Bill D
Hooked For Life
Yeah, I agree, there is a thread by Nick T. on this forum somewhere that describes the process in detail. If you want to be extreme, it can be tedious.
imported_Neothin
New member
I'm still clueless as to what it is/how to do it exactly....
imported_Bence
New member
Spit shining is for building heavy coats, deepening the look, by preventing the solvents to re-liquify and remove the previous wax layers.
If you remove a hazed wax with QD, nothing special happens. You’ll just see a shiny, waxed/QDd surface - but it's not spit shining.
Usually, a wax with higher solvent content can/will remove the previous layer. Heavy carnaubas don’t have high solvent contents, so they can build pretty thick layers with this method. You need distilled water (eventually QD; as it is up to 95% water - but preferably carnauba QD, without alcohol) to neutralize the solvents in the newly applied layer; and the spritz has to be cold, to let the new wax to almost freeze onto the finish. Then you working it until the water/QD/wax disappears. First, you have a prepped-waxed surface. When you want to put on the second/third/etc. layer, you spritz a fine, light mist on the panel. Begin to wipe the wax on. While waxing, mist water/QD a few times. Work until your wax is disappeared. Go over with an ultrafine MF. Wait a bit (half an hour or an hour) then you can apply the next layer.
It is wise to follow the 'divided panels' method. If dust appears, the application was too thick. You can always remove haze with QD; there is nothing unusual in it. But better to have no dust/haze.
Theoretically, each carnauba paste will work good, but it can depend on the solvents, oils, application method (chilled water or QD). Remember, just removing the haze of a wax with QD is NOT spit shining yet! Only a holistic approach makes it perfect. So, mist, wax, mist, continue waxing, mist, wax disappeared, buff lightly with MF. And again... and again...
The golden rule with heavy carnaubas is that you never allow them to dry fully. For example, the dried Victorias are horrendous to remove...
Some feel that a thick, heavy initial application of wax gives a softer, richer touch. It is a good base to start with. However, ALWAYS apply extremely thin layers when spit shining!
The reason to use a damp applicator/towel/cotton balls etc., is to neutralize the solvents as much as possible, and to stop the fine coats of wax sticking to the applicator, thereby encouraging the wax to build thin, fine layers.
Usually a spit shined surface is slicker, smoother, and it has different beading characteristics; with even smaller beads, which have far bigger contact angles. The durability is about the same, but the improved, beautiful, mile-deep appearance is worth it.
If you remove a hazed wax with QD, nothing special happens. You’ll just see a shiny, waxed/QDd surface - but it's not spit shining.
Usually, a wax with higher solvent content can/will remove the previous layer. Heavy carnaubas don’t have high solvent contents, so they can build pretty thick layers with this method. You need distilled water (eventually QD; as it is up to 95% water - but preferably carnauba QD, without alcohol) to neutralize the solvents in the newly applied layer; and the spritz has to be cold, to let the new wax to almost freeze onto the finish. Then you working it until the water/QD/wax disappears. First, you have a prepped-waxed surface. When you want to put on the second/third/etc. layer, you spritz a fine, light mist on the panel. Begin to wipe the wax on. While waxing, mist water/QD a few times. Work until your wax is disappeared. Go over with an ultrafine MF. Wait a bit (half an hour or an hour) then you can apply the next layer.
It is wise to follow the 'divided panels' method. If dust appears, the application was too thick. You can always remove haze with QD; there is nothing unusual in it. But better to have no dust/haze.
Theoretically, each carnauba paste will work good, but it can depend on the solvents, oils, application method (chilled water or QD). Remember, just removing the haze of a wax with QD is NOT spit shining yet! Only a holistic approach makes it perfect. So, mist, wax, mist, continue waxing, mist, wax disappeared, buff lightly with MF. And again... and again...
The golden rule with heavy carnaubas is that you never allow them to dry fully. For example, the dried Victorias are horrendous to remove...
Some feel that a thick, heavy initial application of wax gives a softer, richer touch. It is a good base to start with. However, ALWAYS apply extremely thin layers when spit shining!
The reason to use a damp applicator/towel/cotton balls etc., is to neutralize the solvents as much as possible, and to stop the fine coats of wax sticking to the applicator, thereby encouraging the wax to build thin, fine layers.
Usually a spit shined surface is slicker, smoother, and it has different beading characteristics; with even smaller beads, which have far bigger contact angles. The durability is about the same, but the improved, beautiful, mile-deep appearance is worth it.
Accumulator
Well-known member
Adamah said:
Heh heh, yeah, doesn't anybody get their shoes shined by old-timers any more?
Oh, and you *can* do it without chilling the water/QD (at least you can with Crystal Mist and Griot's Speed Shine) but it does work a lot better if the QD/water is chilled. I'd done it many times *without* chilling but got even better results once Nick T. convinced me to try chilling it.
Sometimes the appearance difference is pretty subtle, but one thing you *will* notice is a change in the beading characteristics. Water beads appear more sherical after spitshining, at least for me. It's like they don't flatten out as much where they contact the paint.
Miami_vice
New member
Adamah said:
:think: Let me make it clear. You can use any QD or carnauba QD except for Spray & wipe. SPit shine is used to remove wax easier. It's not like spit shine has been around for decades. It is no big deal. all you need is a Quick detailer and your set. Stop making things complicated you will get nowhere or get better results. Just use a QD spritz it and buff !!! :furious:
cwcad
New Normal
I thought that Bence made it very clear that there is a difference in spit shining and spritz/buff. One is for building up a wax and the other is for removing wax.
I did the latter a few time with the impression that I was spit shining. Have learned thru several forums that I was sadly mistaken. Having used the spit shining method correctly there was improvement in shine(albeit modest) but not durability. Since I enjoyed it so much it was worth it. It is a lot more work.
I did the latter a few time with the impression that I was spit shining. Have learned thru several forums that I was sadly mistaken. Having used the spit shining method correctly there was improvement in shine(albeit modest) but not durability. Since I enjoyed it so much it was worth it. It is a lot more work.
Bill D
Hooked For Life
cwcad said:
You hit the nail on the head. That's what it all boils down to.
imported_Bence
New member
percynjpn said:
WOW! Percy, that is great! Our country is beautiful! You'll see...
Can we arrange a meet?
imported_Bence
New member
Miami_vice said:
Just don't be furious; your methodology is flawed and it is NOT spit shining.
When you spit shine, you spritz water onto the surface BEFORE waxing, and WHILE you wax. The coats must be so thin and the application must be so thorough that you'll have NO haze/residue. If haze appears, the application was either too thick or too short. With the water you switch the solvents off and this allows the wax to build very heavy layers. That's why you should avoid QDs with alcohol, because it compromises the wax buildup. As Accumulator said, even the beading characteristics is different. Jetting is better, and the beads have smaller contact angles. Just do 5 layers with 30 minute breaks, and you'll see what spit shining is about...
Bill D
Hooked For Life
Bence is correct .As always though, use a technique that is most fun and works for you.
imported_Adamah1
New member
Miami_vice said:
Thanks, I think you've made it perfectly clear to everyone....that you dont know how to spit shine! :sign
cwcad
New Normal
Bill D said:
Thank you for the link. Very informative! Very interesting to read from members that I personally do not recognize. But there were some that I knew from posts. I guess that Bence was very well informed because it sounded as if Nick T and Bence used similiar mehtods. As the saying goes..History repeats itself.