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Bob Post

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because I can't!! Well, not a HUGE difference anyway. I can't tell the difference in results, but in the application I can really tell the difference. I can tell the difference in lubricity, smells, consistency,

cleaning ability and spray pattern (although that has more to do with the spray-head itself) but not in final results! I can tell the difference in Zaino and Klasse, but not QD's! I've used cheap QD's and expensive ones, and the result seemed the same. Heck, the cheaper QD's seemed to do a better job most of the time! My cheap favs are EO Wipe-N-Shine (1st) then Mequires. I think I am going to get away from the Carnuba-based QD's as they tend to be harder to buff out and don't really seem to extend wax protection, contrary to the labels. Plus, I think after you water-down the carnuba in QD's they become quit ineffective. Can you guys tell the difference and does the ability of Crystal Mist and other more expensive detailers justify the extra price?? (As in, can you tell the difference in quality in the price?)
 
Basically I think of a wax application as bring our paint to it's 100% level, I would think that a QD spray is just effective to remove bird droppings, finger prints and dust, aside from that I don't expect much from it, if a part of my car gets that bad I'd jus re-wax that section.



I think of quick detailing as a "patch" to very very minor issues you would have with the paint, I wouldn't even use it for more than a few water spots.
 
ZV, I agree with you 100%. After I finish my bottle of Show Off and Clear Pearl, its back to EO Wipe and Shine and Meguiars Final Inspection for QD's. Since I only use them after a wash, or in the case of a bird bomb, EO and FI do the best job, easiest to use and smell nice:)
 
I use QD's on a daily basis and can say without question that <strong class='bbc'>I [/b]appreciate the differences between several brands.

I currently have about 10 quick detailers in my cabinet and some are quite close in results/quality. Others aren't.

It's like waxes, if YOU don't appreciate the differences then by all means go with what's cheapest or most convenient for you.

There is no one answer for anything!;)
 
I always use Z6 for QD on Zaino'ed cars. This is because I know that it won't interfere with the next coat of Zaino. It does cost $$$, but gives me a piece of mind that I'm not messing up the system.



I have used some left-over Mother's QD before on a Zaino'ed car and later regretted it. It wasn't even my car! I drove over to my friends house and gave him a bottle of Z6 and took his Mother's. I do use the Mother's QD to clay with. I don't wash after claying (the car is very nice and clean at that point), but I do go directly to Z1 then. It cleans off any Mother's QD residue. Zaino's clay bar and Mother's QD work very well together, FYI.



If I was using a carnuba wax as my sealant, then I would try several inexpensive QD's and stick with the one that gave the biggest bang for the buck. I agree that the QD's that contain trace amounts of carnuba seem a bit dubious in value considering the extra work involved. If a QD doesn't wipe off extremely easily, ditch it.



I just ordered more Z6 yesterday. 6 more bottles ought to get me through the winter months with my three vehicles.
 
Take it from us old time members here. There is a difference between quick detailers in terms of shine, lubrication and slickness. Big difference in some situations. And YES, carnauba quick detailers do prolong the life of your carnauba coat. Don't let anyone tell you differently. This especially holds true if you use them regularly like many of us do. Laters.
 
3 months after my Klasse/Blitz ordeal I decided to get some One Grand Show off and some Pinnacle Bodywork Shampoo. Washing my car once with that awsome stuff and using that awsome revitalizing QD, it made my car look virtually the way it did just after detailing it.



and while I don't know exactly which one it was that did so much, I think it was a little of both. So the answer to your question as far as I am concerned is yes, these products make a difference. And I think not just the QD but the shampoo as well. If you get the chance, try to get samples from some of the fine and generous detailers here, try it out, and you'll see the difference.



GBA-Steve (God Bless America:))
 
Maybe I just haven't been around the block enough, but I haven't encountered any issues or difficulties when using a 'premium' quick detailer. I've found my favorite Clear Pearl just as easy to deal with as the basic over-the-counter Meguiar's products but with noticeably better results (on cars finishes with and without a wax topper).



Of course, I could just be addicted to the smell of peaches :). There are some people running around here that think qd's are one big ol' waste of money...



Steve
 
I did not mean to impune any and all carnuba containing detailers. What I wanted to point out, in a not very eloquant fashion, is that you need to ensure that the QD you are using does no harm. Kind of like the Hippocratic oath of QD's.



First, do no harm....



Carnuba and polymer sealants may not get along, especially in that order.



And just how many posts does it take to get a custom profile status anyway? ;)
 
in terms of shine, small differences in my opinion, but there is a difference. Slickness, a difference but not huge. Now ease of use is a different story. Some QDs are really finiky and can streak making your car look worse...but yes, try a few out, see which one brings back that just detailed look with no streaks. I like griots QD (streaks w. cotton badly though)

and Meguiars FI...never used Clear Pearl but im sure its top notch.
 
Hi Cybercowboy -- I have enjoyed your posts. A comment on your claying procedure.

I would recommend using the Z7 as the lube, as Sal recommends. As it is a shampoo, it really lubricates. PLUS, imagin, not only are you pulling particulate contamination out of the paint with the clay, but if you use the Z7, you are giving the paint the washing of a lifetime! Lastly, any film or oil on the car is going to be seriously mixed in the Z7, so it rinses right off the car.

After claying, I think we are best advised to follow the directions and wash the car before applying Z1. Otherwise, you are applying the Z1 on top of a dirty car . . . yes, I consider the Meguires QD to be "dirt" <em class='bbc'>in this context[/i] because the Z1 is supposed to be applied to <em class='bbc'>clean paint[/i] . The paint needs to be completely clean because the Z1 is supposed to bond with the paint.

Meaning no disrespect, I do not think the Z1 removes all the Meguires QD. What is happening is that you are ending up with a mixture of Meguires and Z1. This is an untested base upon which to build your Z2/5 layers. Hey, maybe it will product superior results! Though, if the QD contains wax, I would fear that it will reduce either the immediate or long-term bonding of the Z1. If you keep following this procedure, let us know how it turns out.
 
I believe there is a difference in quick detailers. I use Crystal Mist or Clear Pearl on my Sport Trac. There is a difference in the shine of qd's. Final Inspection 34 is good to remove bugs and bird bombs. You should match your qd with what you have used as atop coat (synthetic or wax).
 
Their seem to be alot of good QDs out there with adequate performance. My peeve is almost all of them have lousy applicators. Get yourself a good sprayer like those that are in Griots catalog. Not only is the spray pattern more consistant but you will use much less product.
 
Yeah, I thought about that also. Note that I am using the Mother's QD, not Meguiars. Anyway, I have used both Z7 (mixed per instructions) and Mother's QD with both Mother's and Zaino clay. All I know is the clay held up better when I used Mother's QD as the lube. I was able to do my entire Expedition with one clay bar, but when doing an Eclipse with the Z7 method the clay was falling apart toward the end. FWIW.



I haven't had any problem with the several different techniques I've tried so far. Just so you know, when I get my vette in a week or so it is going to be clayed with Z7 and Zaino clay. I am going to ensure that it is done to the letter o' the law. I have had the luxury of being able to experiment on 5 vehicles prior to this, and did each one a tad bit differently. All turned out great! What this told me was that there seems to be a bit of allowance for deviation built into the Zaino system. This, to me, is great because it allows for greater freedom of experimentation and technique.



Peace!
 
Hi Cybercowboy -- Thanks for your post. And thank you for all the info.



Re Z7 falling apart : this is first I have heard of this. I'd suggest you call Sal. Best wishes.





Darbh
 
<blockquote class='ipsBlockquote' >

<em class='bbc'>Originally posted by darbh [/i]
<strong class='bbc'>Hi Cybercowboy -- Thanks for your post. And thank you for all the info.

Re Z7 falling apart : this is first I have heard of this. I'd suggest you call Sal. Best wishes.
[/b]</blockquote>I had a similar problem . . . it was almost as if the clay began to absorb water. Once that happened, the edges of the clay began to "fray" and take on an odd, "doughy" appearance. I was able to minimize the effect by removing excess moisture from the bar before folding (on the theory that the water I was introducing to the <strong class='bbc'>inside[/b] of the bar was causing the breakdown). On subsequent uses of clay (new bar), I was careful to remove excess moisture before folding, and I tried to minimize how much I pulled and stretched (which seemed to open up the surface of the clay). Instead of pulling/stretching, I flattened the piece using my fingers then folded and flattened some more until I had roughly the original shape again. The new bar seems to be holding up fine.
 
Your description is exactly what was happening to me. I was able to clay the car OK but after claying my Expedition with the Mother's clay and lube a few days before I knew something wasn't right. The lube is the thing, IMHO. I know what works for me, and if the car is small enough I will use Z7 for the lube. If it's large (SUV or a minivan for instance) I'll use the Mother's lube.
 
TortoiseAWD - I use your technique, too, and also find it gives better results. Like you, I make the bar longer BEFORE I fold it over, and, like you, I do not so much pull the ends and press the bar. I think the pressing maintains the integrety of the bar, where as the pulling degrades it and starts fissures that lead to freying and seperation.
 
So I'm sitting here watching an episode of SuperCars Exposed and they're featuring three cars from Sharkwerks. In one scene the three cars are pulling out of an industrial complex and as their hitting pavement, there's a guy standing on the sidewalk, taking pictures like a tourist on the Hollywood Walk of Fame. Suddenly I realized that it's not a tourist, but our own NorCalBob!!!:w00t: I guess the cars had just left his shop from being tidied up a bit before close up shots were taken.

All in all, it was a pretty good episode. The best part of it all is that there were finally cars featured on program that were paint defect free!! Nice work, Bob!! :hurray:

One thing that was kind of irritating is that Mother's a huge sponsor of the show. They had a guy demo'ing a glass cleaning product. He sprayed the product on the rear glass, which I'm sure Bob probably polished, and wiped it clean and said something like chessey like "Works great, glass is clean". It's not verbatim, but you get the point. :banghead:

Note: edited because eye kaint spell and had sum typos.
 
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