Sonus trim andmotor kote

H

h22accordex

New member
David, how do i remove this product safely and easily. I applied just as directions said( I also made a post in detailing product discussion a few days back hoping you would respond) and this product im sorry just really sucks. Its leaves a very uneven finish, and was supposed to dry hard, but instead never dried and is very gooey and tacky. I would like to remove it completly from all surfaces in my engine bay. I only did the left side to test the product and im glad i did and not the whole engine bay. I took off a few individual pieces and it came off with some work but i cant do that with everything in the bay. Whats a safe product that can be purchased locally to use to take it all off in on shot? I would take a look at this product and maybe go back to the drawing board on it!
 
I'm sorry you had a bad experience with T&MK. I'd like to understand why it didn't work for you, as it is one of our better selling products. I have had one other case where the person reported the same condition. I'd like to understand why.



You can remove the product with any good engine degreaser. The product I use is Autoglym Engine Cleaner, because it is very gentle, but any degreaser will work.
 
DavidB- Hope this isn't a threadjack, but any tips on using the Motorkote? I ordered some from you back when it first came out but I've yet to use it because I'm too leery of having the problem(s) that h22accordex mentioned.



I guess it's the "don't wipe" it that gives me pause; I'm worried that it won't go on evenly and that I won't be able to do anything about it (except complain ;) ).



I'm also wondering about how I'll keep it off surfaces that I don't want it on (visions of extensive masking/etc.) and/or how to clean it off such surfaces without disturbing the stuff that's already on them :nixweiss



Seems silly to have it sitting on the shelf unused, but I sure don't want to mess up my engine compartments and have to redo them over a "finishing touch product" like this.
 
Accumulator said:
DavidB- Hope this isn't a threadjack, but any tips on using the Motorkote?
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Not a threadjack at all... good discussion.



I documented how I use this product in this article. Basically, the engine compartment needs to be clean and dry. If the engine compartment is slightly warm, I find that it works better (warmed to 110-120 degrees is great).



I do mask off. Laying towels on the fenders is enough. Wiping off overspray is fine. The "no wipe" comment refers to the parts being coated. If you create puddles, the puddles should be soaked up using a small sponge.



This product has been around for a long time. Meguiar's sold it under the name EngineKote. They dropped it when they brought chemical manufacturing in-house. So, anyone who has used EngineKote in the past knows exactly how this product works.



I use this product a lot on the engine and in wheel wells. It is very tollerant to normal wear and easily last 6 months on an engine the is well protected with a splash pan.



I'm in the process of testing it will Polycharger, which seems to make it apply more evenly and dry faster. We'll see if it lasts longer.



db
 
David B.- Thanks for the reply, and I'll reread the original how-to.



I hadn't realized it was the same as the old Meg's EngineKote...
 
boxcartommie22 said:
i bought this product too and it put white spots all over my engine!!! what a waste of money for garbage.
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If you don't like something, why don't you call and ask for help, a refund or a different solution?
 
I didn't follow directions exactly, and I liked the results.

I saturated the engine. I didn't like the way it seemed to be spotting on the black plastic engine cover, so I wiped it down to ensure coverage over all areas. I then resprayed and let it dry. Results are fantastic.
 
How does this product compare to CD-2 engine detailer? The CD-2 is difficult or impossible to find. Maybe this would be a good substitute.
 
I have use it a few times and it has work great and it lasted for about 9 months on my wife's Toyota engine compartment. I follow the directions and have not have any problems at all......just my 2 cents
 
I find that most people that have an issue with this product are not saturating the area completely. It’s not a mist lightly product, the area needs to be completely saturated and wet.



I have used it on my 59 Caddy engine compartment for years and have never had a problem. :cool:



Lynn
 
Glad this thread got revived...maybe I'll finally get the stuff off the shelf and try it on something :o



Utterly off-topic- Hey Lynn, did you ever get the '59 painted or is it still in primer (which I kinda liked)?
 
Accumulator said:
Utterly off-topic- Hey Lynn, did you ever get the '59 painted or is it still in primer (which I kinda liked)?
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Hey Accumulator, was waiting for you to send the check to the painter. ;) Sorry to say it is still in primer. :(



Lynn
 
Lynn Phillips said:
Hey Accumulator, was waiting for you to send the check to the painter. ;) Sorry to say it is still in primer. :(



Lynn
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Heh heh, you'd be waiting a long time, I used to add flattening additive to gray enamel to (deliberately) get that look with a less-porous finish than regular primer/sealer. The styling (and brightwork) of your car, combined with the primer, looks just swell to me as-is :D



Thanks for the reply.
 
wannafbody said:
Just get it clearcoated.
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With all the brightwork that might be a huge undertaking (assuming Lynn wouldn't want to go the masking tape route). By the time all that trim came off it'd be silly not to just (really) paint it. Remember, it's a *'59 Caddy* ;)
 
David,



How did this work out with the polycharger? I think I'm about to order some. I just pressure-cleaned my 4.5 year old engine with degreaser/cleaner for the first time and I need to recoat it.
 
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