Sonax Net Shield and Brilliant Shine Detailer

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tonosity

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[FONT=&quot][FONT=&quot]Hello everyone!

I have questions regarding the use of Sonax PNS with Sonax BSD. There’s a definite lack of information from Sonax, and what I’ve been able to find on the ‘Net.

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[FONT=&quot][FONT=&quot]1. Do both products use the same base solvent? For example, is BSD water-based?

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[FONT=&quot][FONT=&quot]2. After PNS has been applied, and cured for 24 hours, will the solvent in either product remove this cured coat of PNS?

[/FONT][/FONT]
[FONT=&quot][FONT=&quot]Thank you![/FONT][/FONT]
 
They are designed to work with each other. The Sonax rep told me that PNS, BSD and CC36 share similar chemistry amongst them when I was at a demo for the CC36 coating.
 
The Guz said:
They are designed to work with each other. The Sonax rep told me that PNS, BSD and CC36 share similar chemistry amongst them when I was at a demo for the CC36 coating.
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Good info Mike. This explains why BSD is such a monster QD. In fact, calling it a QD was a strange call because it`s better than most spray "waxes"
 
Yes, I’ve heard or read this before. How PNS and BSD (not CC36, though) are designed to work together.

But my question is essentially about layering. If the primary coat of PSN, when fully cured, is *not* removed by the solvent of a second coat, then layering is possible. (Even if not necessary.). So, that’s why I’m interested in the robustness/resistance of a cured coat of PNS, and how in interacts with whatever solvent is used in either product.

Further, if BSD uses the same base solvent, then finishing off, or touching up, an application of PNS with BSD doesn’t seem productive—might as well just use BSD as your sealant.

Thanks!
 
I think it’s hard to know for sure unless you can get it straight from the manufacturer. But even with these sealants I think we are looking at the “law of diminishing returns”.

Basically once the first layer is on and cured a second layer can be applied but while that is happening some of the first layer is effected by the solvent in the second application and thus your second application mixes with the first giving you a net gain of 1.5 or 1.75. But not a full 2 layers. That is why they say to do 1 layer and a second to insure proper coverage.

PNS is most definitely a stronger version of BSD. So I would use PNS as a base and then BSD for regular maintenance and upkeep. That way you are maintaining the same polymers protection.

 
tonosity said:
[FONT=&quot][FONT=&quot]Hello everyone!

I have questions regarding the use of Sonax PNS with Sonax BSD. There’s a definite lack of information from Sonax, and what I’ve been able to find on the ‘Net.

[/FONT][/FONT]
[FONT=&quot][FONT=&quot]1. Do both products use the same base solvent? For example, is BSD water-based?

[/FONT][/FONT]
[FONT=&quot][FONT=&quot]2. After PNS has been applied, and cured for 24 hours, will the solvent in either product remove this cured coat of PNS?

[/FONT][/FONT]
[FONT=&quot][FONT=&quot]Thank you![/FONT][/FONT]
Click to expand...

I`ve actually cheated sometimes and dabbed a small amount of BSD to an applicator, to apply PNS. I`ve never had any issues.

I`ve also topped PNS with BSD 24 hour after with no I`ll effects.

I think this is one of the most underrated combos out there. I apply them to all Paint, trim and glass.

I just sold my car but the current PNS was beading well past a year! This included only doing rinseless and waterless washes and using the "touchless" auto washes.
 
392hemi said:
I think this is one of the most underrated combos out there.
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This is the combo that`s made me hesitant to jump into the "Lite Coating" world that`s currently a hot topic. I`m not in a hurry to try some of the latest and greatest Lite Coatings at least until I run out of PNS.

Gyeon CanCoat is probably what I`ll try when I do.
 
Strong combo. I got Collinite on my cars for this winter but planned on topping with BSD prior to any large snowstorms, the first of which is slated for this Saturday! Can’t wait to watch the impenetrable paint armor vs. snow/ice/salt.
 
I have 2 coats of PSD and after wash a spritz of 50 /50 mixture BM and PSD, REALLY impressed. We have had some crappy weather rain / snow and the self cleaning abilities have been impressive.
 
SGM2008 said:
This is the combo that`s made me hesitant to jump into the "Lite Coating" world that`s currently a hot topic. I`m not in a hurry to try some of the latest and greatest Lite Coatings at least until I run out of PNS.

Gyeon CanCoat is probably what I`ll try when I do.
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I`ve actually pondered going the other direction.

I`m using CanCoat now and am quite happy with it, but all favorable mentions make me want to see if I`ll get a similar experience for less money. The fact a single use can is now available makes it REALLY tempting, but for now I`ll hold out until the CanCoat is gone.

I used PNS one time, but I never saw the vehicle again to see how it held up. Sitting in the garage with a fresh coat of PNS made the vehicle look fantastic.
 
Off the OP’s topic, but instead of making a new thread -

Picked up a bottle of each during the recent 25% off sale; not because I need them, but because I’ve been curious about them too long and 25% is hard to say no to. I was regretting placing my order immediately though; not for having second thoughts about the products, but realizing what poor timing it was weather wise - it was 5 degrees here when the box showed up. Thankfully neither bottle sounded like slush. Of course both bottles have warnings about “prevent from freezing” - *facepalm*

What are people’s go-to towels for PNS and BSD? I’ve got a bunch of the basic default towels - Eagle Edgeless 450’s, Gold plush Jr’s, Supreme 530’s, some black edgeless towels that were a free add in here or at AG, PFMs (normal, speed shine, and wax removal), Shine and Buff waterless wash towels, plus some other basic ~300/350gsm 80/20 TRC towels.

Do I need to worry about immediately laundering whatever towels I use to keep them from getting sealed up like some products, or are they pretty forgiving?

Any reason using BSD as a drying aid is a bad idea?
 
I haven’t noticed any problems from washing towels that I used with BSD or heard of any problems. I just use a normal 350-400 gsm towel for application and wipeoff.

I don’t use BSD as a drying aide. BSD is not the slickest product that I have so it can be a tad grabby. I cut my BSD 50/50 with V07 so it’s slicker. BSD is very close to a sealant rather than a QD as it will last 2-3 months and by last I mean bead. It’s one of the best beading products on the market.
 
rlmccarty2000 said:
BSD is very close to a sealant rather than a QD as it will last 2-3 months
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Wow. I’ve never tested BSD for longevity but always figured it was a 2-4 weeks thing (before I top with something else or new BSD). I had never realized heard that BSD lasts in the “months” range.

Thanks for the info!
 
If you want a good experience with applying BSD I keep going to recommend to get a Flairosol spray bottle. With this fine mist spray bottle and it`s building up a little pressure as you spray it. It`s the one I use if spray it on the paint directly and when used as a drying aid. Cause it`s a very thick liquid and when used with the original spray bottle it kind of spray out a narrow mist and gets a little hard to spread it out evenly. You could use it in another spray bottle that you can set to a very fine mist. Otherwise if used with the original spray bottle I would only spray it in a mf application towel and spread it out. When useing the second mf towel to get excess product off the paint I use a mf towel with a long nap. To being able to soak up as much as possible and it`s useally also increase the slickness feeling which is not high to begin with as noted above. Flip to a dry side of the mf towel often and switch to a clean one when it`s used all sides of it. Maybe 3-4 second mf towel is needed for me and 1 for spreading the BSD as it`s good if that is primed and gets a little saturated so you leave enough product behind. Think like when you apply Bead Maker to work it in the paint with both spray it on the paint and when you spray it in the mf towel to spread it out and in the paint. I think it`s good to let it sit for 15-25 seconds after wiped it in. So the polymers or what magic sauce it has to be able to cross linking for longer longevity from it. It`s important to get all of the residue off as IME it`s gets very grabby until the next wash if not. So it`s not wrong to test if you can buff it up at some places and you feel a difference in the slickness feel to a little better. If it`s not difference to that feel it`s not necessary to do a extra buffing step.

If used as a drying aid you can cut it 50/50 with distilled water to get a better spread mist out of the spray bottle to cover more surface. Or if not cutting it spray it in the drying towel and just 2 spritz is needed for a panel and you can use less as dry on.
 
acuRAS82 said:
Wow. I’ve never tested BSD for longevity but always figured it was a 2-4 weeks thing (before I top with something else or new BSD). I had never realized heard that BSD lasts in the “months” range.

Thanks for the info!
Click to expand...

On unprepped cars BSD has been 1 to 4 weeks for me. When I have polished and applied it, it has lasted at least 2 months! Its more a spray sealant than a QD. A little goes a long way.

I`ve read of the BSD and V7 combo. I read someone else tried it with beadmaker and liked it
 
SWETM said:
If you want a good experience with applying BSD I keep going to recommend to get a Flairosol spray bottle. With this fine mist spray bottle and it`s building up a little pressure as you spray it. It`s the one I use if spray it on the paint directly and when used as a drying aid. Cause it`s a very thick liquid and when used with the original spray bottle it kind of spray out a narrow mist and gets a little hard to spread it out evenly. You could use it in another spray bottle that you can set to a very fine mist. Otherwise if used with the original spray bottle I would only spray it in a mf application towel and spread it out. When useing the second mf towel to get excess product off the paint I use a mf towel with a long nap. To being able to soak up as much as possible and it`s useally also increase the slickness feeling which is not high to begin with as noted above. Flip to a dry side of the mf towel often and switch to a clean one when it`s used all sides of it. Maybe 3-4 second mf towel is needed for me and 1 for spreading the BSD as it`s good if that is primed and gets a little saturated so you leave enough product behind. Think like when you apply Bead Maker to work it in the paint with both spray it on the paint and when you spray it in the mf towel to spread it out and in the paint. I think it`s good to let it sit for 15-25 seconds after wiped it in. So the polymers or what magic sauce it has to be able to cross linking for longer longevity from it. It`s important to get all of the residue off as IME it`s gets very grabby until the next wash if not. So it`s not wrong to test if you can buff it up at some places and you feel a difference in the slickness feel to a little better. If it`s not difference to that feel it`s not necessary to do a extra buffing step.

If used as a drying aid you can cut it 50/50 with distilled water to get a better spread mist out of the spray bottle to cover more surface. Or if not cutting it spray it in the drying towel and just 2 spritz is needed for a panel and you can use less as dry on.
Click to expand...

Amazing advice on the spray bottle. I will try it! How do you remove the BSD sprayer?

Just to add, PNS and BSD do NOT stain trim. Rather they darken and make it hydrophobic!

I will do half my car with PNS and half with Mothers CMX to see how it holds up.
 
392hemi said:
Amazing advice on the spray bottle. I will try it! How do you remove the BSD sprayer?

Just to add, PNS and BSD do NOT stain trim. Rather they darken and make it hydrophobic!

I will do half my car with PNS and half with Mothers CMX to see how it holds up.
Click to expand...

The BSD bottle I have I just unscrewed the sprayer. It was long threaded so almost just one turn and it was loose. So no problem to do.

And it`s also great on the outside glass but not on the windshield or if you have a wiper on back window.

Don`t know why I don`t use it more. But it`s fun to switch between different LSP. On white paints it looks amazing for some reason.
 
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