IntrstlarOvrdrv
New member
do you have to get a new clay bar everytime you use one? or can yo use the same one over and over?
So with clay bars..
- Thread starter IntrstlarOvrdrv
- Start date
Quickstrike
New member
Look on the packaging.. Generally one clay bar can be used to clay 3-4 average sized cars. It also depends on how oxidized your cars are.
You break it off and use pieces of it not the whole thing at once. Everything else deoends on the the size of the car and oxidation, tar, brake dust. Just fold it and knead it when it gets dirty and continue to use until it it doesn't have a smooth feel after folding or you drop on the ground, whichever happens first
I personally cut the bar into equal pieces and use each piece for one section. Once I'm done, I throw the piece out. I'd rather not take the chance of using an already contaminated piece of clay on my paint. The chances of marring the finish increase with every re-use of the bar.
If you're interested, here is my claying technique that I posted over on another board:
How to: Properly Clay your Car
Make sure you have thoroughly washed and dried your car prior to claying.
My clay of choice is the one made by 3M. They give you a very generous amount. Cut the bar in half. Take the half and cut it into 15 equal pieces:
2 for the hood
2 for the roof
1 for the trunk lid
1 for the trunk rear and rear bumper
2 for the rear quarter panels (1 per side)
4 for the doors (1 per door)(if you have a sedan)
2 for the front fenders (1 per side)
1 for the front of the car
Take the piece and roll it in to a sphere. Take the sphere and flatten it out into a circle so that it covers the top third of your first two fingers. Spray the first section of the roof with quick detailer. Glide the clay across the area in a front to back motion applying some pressure. Work in 2x2 areas. If you feel your fingers going through the clay, then you are pushing too hard. If the clay is streaking on the paint, then you need more QD. While gliding, you should hear a slight noise and feel some resistance. This is the grit being lifted from the paint. When the resistance and noise stops, dry the QD off with a quality towel. Move onto the next 2x2 section and do the same thing. Once half the section is done, flip the clay over and do the other half of the section. Once the section has been completed throw the piece of clay away. It is too contaminated to use on another section. If you do use it, you will most likely put micro scratches in your clear.
Keep working your way down using each dedicated piece for its area. Flip the clay over when you have completed half a section. Throw the clay away when the section is done.
When complete your car should be as smooth as glass.
This method works for me like a charm. It also gives me some piece of mind knowing that I have minimized the possibility of putting microscratches in my clear.
If you're interested, here is my claying technique that I posted over on another board:
How to: Properly Clay your Car
Make sure you have thoroughly washed and dried your car prior to claying.
My clay of choice is the one made by 3M. They give you a very generous amount. Cut the bar in half. Take the half and cut it into 15 equal pieces:
2 for the hood
2 for the roof
1 for the trunk lid
1 for the trunk rear and rear bumper
2 for the rear quarter panels (1 per side)
4 for the doors (1 per door)(if you have a sedan)
2 for the front fenders (1 per side)
1 for the front of the car
Take the piece and roll it in to a sphere. Take the sphere and flatten it out into a circle so that it covers the top third of your first two fingers. Spray the first section of the roof with quick detailer. Glide the clay across the area in a front to back motion applying some pressure. Work in 2x2 areas. If you feel your fingers going through the clay, then you are pushing too hard. If the clay is streaking on the paint, then you need more QD. While gliding, you should hear a slight noise and feel some resistance. This is the grit being lifted from the paint. When the resistance and noise stops, dry the QD off with a quality towel. Move onto the next 2x2 section and do the same thing. Once half the section is done, flip the clay over and do the other half of the section. Once the section has been completed throw the piece of clay away. It is too contaminated to use on another section. If you do use it, you will most likely put micro scratches in your clear.
Keep working your way down using each dedicated piece for its area. Flip the clay over when you have completed half a section. Throw the clay away when the section is done.
When complete your car should be as smooth as glass.
This method works for me like a charm. It also gives me some piece of mind knowing that I have minimized the possibility of putting microscratches in my clear.
imported_The Uncle
New member
Are you guys aware how helpful you are to us newbies? This is really valuable information.
TortoiseAWD
New member
Bill's method would be the absolute safest route, as it minimizes any chance of scratching from picking up grit in the clay. However, I rarely clay a car without following it up with a polish, so I'm comfortable folding the clay to expose a new side, and then continuing to use the same piece. I figure as long as I'm cautious, any minor marring I might introduce will be eliminated by my trusty PC and polish du jour.
After claying a section, I fold the pancake of clay (like a book) so that the dirt is on the inside, exposing two clean sides of clay. Then, I flatten the folded clay to the desired shape before moving to the next section. It's important to keep in mind that you should never flip the clay over and use both sides before folding; you always want to keep one side clean (against your fingers), as that becomes the new outer surface of the clay when you fold.
I've noticed that some clays can become "water-logged" if using this folding method. Certain clays in combination with certain QDs or car wash solutions seem more prone to this than others, but I've been able to avoid the problem completely (after a couple of "what the hell?" experiences) since I started dabbing any excess lube from the clay before folding. A clean MF is handy for that purpose, or I will usually just tap the wet clay against my shirt a couple of times to dry it before folding and re-shaping.
Tort
After claying a section, I fold the pancake of clay (like a book) so that the dirt is on the inside, exposing two clean sides of clay. Then, I flatten the folded clay to the desired shape before moving to the next section. It's important to keep in mind that you should never flip the clay over and use both sides before folding; you always want to keep one side clean (against your fingers), as that becomes the new outer surface of the clay when you fold.
I've noticed that some clays can become "water-logged" if using this folding method. Certain clays in combination with certain QDs or car wash solutions seem more prone to this than others, but I've been able to avoid the problem completely (after a couple of "what the hell?" experiences) since I started dabbing any excess lube from the clay before folding. A clean MF is handy for that purpose, or I will usually just tap the wet clay against my shirt a couple of times to dry it before folding and re-shaping.
Tort
BillNorth....I would like to say :bigups THANK YOU :bigups for the great write up. I have still to do my first claying yet and will read this again before I do.
mrbean......re-read paragraph 5 of bills write up........'cut the bar in half'......but note he's talking about the 3m bar.
mrbean......re-read paragraph 5 of bills write up........'cut the bar in half'......but note he's talking about the 3m bar.
IntrstlarOvrdrv
New member
The Uncle said:
This is by far the best message board I've ever been on, for help, and freindliness. I would really like to thank everyone who has answered my not so good questions, and who has put up with me so far. Thanks so much.