Simple Fuchs Wheel detailing

mhackney

New member
The Fuchs wheels on my 83 Porsche 911 SC Cabriolet have been faded and blasé for the eight years I`ve owned her. Over the years I`ve sorted a myriad of mechanical issues (all simple mostly basic maintenance) and I`m now working on the exterior and interior. This weekend I decided to tackle the wheels since I was "in there" replacing brake pads on the rear. Here`s a before photo:
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This is a typical "tired" Fuchs as you can see in the added black petals. Also, the shine cap is not correct. Porsche typically match the cap to the spoke color. And my car is a fairly rare first year cab/last year SC that was outfitted from the factory with a lot of options, one of which was the Fuchs with black petals and background and black caps. The Porsche crew recommend Rustoleum 7777 satin black as a very good match to the original satin on these wheels. I started by bead blasting, prepping and painting the caps. Here`s a before and after of a cap:
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Quite a difference. Next I moved on to the wheel itself. I removed the wheel and cleaned inside and out with Maguiar`s APC. They were filthy! Next I hand polished with Noxol Metal Polish. I cleaned the wheel with dilute APC and let it dry. The final step was to apply a liberal coating of Vaseline (petroleum jelly), allowing it to sit in the sun for and hour, and then hand buffing it off. Petroleum jelly is Porsche`s recommendation in my owner`s manual. Here`s the after photo:
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Now I need to figure out what to do about the faded anodized aluminum lug nuts! I`m thinking about bead blasting them and painting with the satin Rustoleum too. I came across a tip to use a thin plastic bag over the lug nut and then placing a socket on it to minimize/prevent marring painted lugs. Worth a shot I think.
 

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Didn`t take that long actually, maybe 2 hrs total. I`d almost classify it a a "quick & dirty" detail! I do intend to repaint the Fuchs but not until after the driving season here in MA.
 
Seriously! Under normal conditions but this year has been very odd weather wise. I usually do get to drive well into Nov though. I don`t drive when the roads are wet, slushy or salty in the winter though. Cold temps are not an issue, I just where my leather flight helmet with the top down and I`m good to go.
 
Before you paint them try this, Gyeon trim or Kamakaze ISM. Both will restore faded black paint. I do a lot of Porsche with those wheels and it works great and won`t cause the brake dust to stick to them like the Vaseline
 
Thanks for your post, MHackney, and welcome to the Forum !
Loved the work on the wheel caps - they look great !

Are those particular wheels clear coated?
If not, they did not really come out that great.. :)

If you get black residue off the application cloth, then they are not clear coated..
If they are not clear coated, I would be trying Wenol (red tube) on them and see if they can be improved..

And Im with Mike Lambert - why would you want to put something that attracts and holds massive brake dust on the wheels (Vaseline) after cleaning and polishing them up ?
Perhaps in Germany, where its frozen in winter and salt on the roads, this is to help prevent salt attacking the metal surfaces??

A good polishing to get them really even and shiny, then followed by a good coating, the entire wheel, front and back will do a way better job of protecting the wheels and preventing all that brake dust, etc., from sticking to them..

A good, inexpensive sealant that also works great on wheels and that leaves a nice coating for a little while is Rejex -- Rejex Paint Sealant, wheel sealant, plastic sealant, durable paint protection
Dan F
 
My thoughts exactly with the Vasoline. Sounds like something to protect the wheels from road salt, but today there are better solutions. CarPro Hydro2lite would be a quick and easy protectant. For more protection go with McKees Wheel Coating or PBL Wheel Coating. Seems like the Vasoline residue would attract brake dust and other road dirt. Great work on restoring those wheels!
 
Thanks all. Firstly, a lot of the Porsche crowd with these older cars use the Vaseline treatment. After you wipe and buff it off, there really isn`t anything sticky left behind. But I agree that there are probably better modern solutions.

The wheels are not clear coated and they are meant to be a satin, not gloss black. The bright rims are anodized. The lugs are anodized and I actually do small scale anodizing for my fly fishing reel business and know that black is really difficult to get "right".

Finally, the wheels do have a number of chips - especially around the edge where the center cap fits - and some surface defects.That`s really the reason I would want to repaint them, otherwise, as they are now they look pretty much exactly the way they should. I put 10K+ miles/year on this car so I don`t want it to be a garage queen but I would like to preserve and protect it as best I can.

@Mike Lambert - I think it would be worth trying either Gyeon trim or Kamikaze ISM so I`ll track some down.

@Stokdgs - not sure what you mean about they could be improved? They are not clear coated. After I polished them with the Noxol, the black had a nice even satiny color. The Vaseline treatment really didn`t do much to change the sheen, it really is just for "protection" but I will try one of the modern alternatives you and Mike reference. One thing about the Vaseline treatment, water just beads up and rolls off it like nothing else!
 
Hmm, now I`m wondering if I could/should clean the wheels to remove the Vaseline and touch up the nicks the way I touched up color chips on the paint. I`m really happy with the way the paint work came out - although it was a very long and laborious process. This might be a good approach to taking these wheels to the next level.

How do folks recommend polishing these wheels? The silver rims are actually anodized and the black is paint (not clear coated).
 
mhackney- I`m the last guy to advise you regarding the proper finishes for those wheels (I know that PCA Concours judging is *VERY* strict about such stuff), but I do think that you oughta stick to "OE level" results. Don`t make things "nicer than they`re supposed to be".

I`d find the right black for the centers, clean off the Vaseline, and touch up the nicks. Let that new paint cure for a while and then see if a bit of polishing and then some subsequent product (coating/sealant/wax...whatever) gives you the look you want. IME most any good Last Step Product ("LSP") like that will give you the hydrophobic properties like shedding water, and will also be a lot less work over time.

Anodized lugs, huh? See, I learn something here every day! Never paid close attention to my Porsches of that vintage I guess :o If it were mine, I`d track down a set of new ones that have the correct finish and have those around for the times when it might matter, and then DIY the current ones (since you have the products and know-how). When I need nice-looking lugs, I *always* get the best satisfaction from brand new ones. (Use the plastic bag/etc. method to prevent edge wear on the new ones. Seldom 100% perfect forever IME, but awfully close most of the time.)
 
I`m not at all into PCA Concours - been there, done that. This car is a driver but I do like to preserve it`s originality and keep it nice looking. I do prefer to OE level results or OE level with a bit of patina. So for instance, rather than replace the broken rear view mirror with a NOS unit, I found one that had been gently used to match the rest of the interior.

The Rustoleum 7777 Satin black is pretty darned close. I do think at least trying the touch up route makes sense. There aren`t that many chips and the the aluminum rims are actually not too bad either, certainly fine for a presentable driver. The magic of the Vaseline is that it imparts just the right sheen/gloss to the black, not too glossy.

New lugs are $7 to $15/each depending on if after market vs OEM! 20 of them add up fast. I think a light coat of the black paint should suffice for now until I win the lug nut lottery.

cheers,
Michael
 
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