Simple care maintenance and protection

[Kpage89]

Hi all, Im looking for some advice on a simple plan to maintain and protect my cars. I`ve spent countless hours and many late nights this past week going through the wealth of information on this site and have so many products and ideas I`m interested in, I cant sort it all out.
My main goal is protection and easy maintenance. Im not really concerned with the appearance of the cars in regards to scratches or depth of shine. I have a 1yr old car, in decent condition, and a 2012 impreza that needs lots of paint correction. My main goal is to keep the new car in good shape so its easy to wash every week and prevent it from needing much correction in the future. So far, my plan is to start with valugard abc on the new car to strip contamination and prepare it for an easy to use sealant. Then, do a weekly wash followed by spray on sealant. Some of my top picks for sealants are FK1000p, optiseal, or maybe meguires fast finish. My first question; If I wash and follow up with a spray sealant every week, do I even need a base sealant of something like FK1000p, or can i just use optiseal for everything? Less products is preferable to more. Will road grime wash off easily with a PH neutral soap if I go this route?

Again, my main goals are ease of use, efficiency and protection: if its easy enough, its more likely that i will follow through maintaining it.
So many more questions, but thats a start. Hopefully someone can help me sort this out because I feel lost! Thanks!

 

[tom p.]

K, welcome to the forums! Do you want to talk about what you already own and what equipment you have so as to minimize duplication, etc.?

 

[quebert]

If you want to keep it simple, don`t get a spray sealant that you gotta use every week. I`ve never used Optiseal, but they claim up to 4 months, which means probably closer to 2. If you`re going to wash every week, especially with a sealant on it. Washing will be super easy. But, if you`ll be washing every week, you might want to look into a SIO2 infused soap. I use Gyeon Bathe+ which has SIO2 in it. Not much, but with a weekly wash it would be more than good. It`s not cheap, but it`s an awesome soap. It couldn`t get much more simple than just having to wash. There are other soaps with SIO2 in them, haven`t used any but I know the bunch here, so some of then absolutely have.

I`ve never used Valugard ABC, I do know about it. I just read the instructions. Solid product, but not something I would put in the simple category lol. That would definitely be a great starting point. You should Google reviews of Bathe+, really amazing stuff.

 

[Stokdgs]

Even easier for the new vehicle would be a good cleaning of the paint, carefully dry it to not scratch it, and then apply this Finish Kare Product -- https://www.autopia-carcare.com/finish-kare-hi-temp.html#.XaaFiZKpH3g

From one of the most senior posters on here alone, (Accumulator), this is what he uses on many of his vehicles, and it is ALL he needs.. He also lives in snow country area so this product has been more than battle-tested, for many years.. He is also a Valugard ABC expert..

Yes, you can use all kinds of sprays, sealers, etc., and be out there all winter long doing it over and over, but you said you wanted "protection and easy maintenance"...

You also mention "prevent it from needing much correction in the future." there are only some Coatings that can barely even approach that. It will be much better long-term, to learn how to wash and dry the vehicles very carefully, so as to not introduce things that need to be corrected later.. And of course, counsel with the family to help you by not accidently doing things to the paint by accident, etc...

There was a period of time in the distant past, when everyone wanted show-car-perfect-paint-corrections- and not much talk or care about how much clear-coat that removed from the paint work, and then what happens if you do this and the very next day, some yahoo puts a cardboard box, a binder, purse, shoes, butts, dogs, cats, rabbits, etc., on that pristine paintwork, and now, its all scratched up again??? How much clear coat would be left to re-do this before you ran through it all and it required a very expensive repaint???

I recently applied this F/Kare product to a new Client`s gigantic Chevy Tahoe in Brilliant White that never had anything on it before.. He did not want any paint correction, just wash it, prepare it, for a protection product, and that`s it.. I did wipe it down with CarPro Eraser after washing it and drying it with a Master Blaster..

I did just that, and several months later, he cannot put a towel on the hood after washing, because it will just slide off.. He is very pleased with the results to say the least..

You can apply this in thin coats, to all your vehicles and I am sure you will be happy with the results, for a long time, with no weekly, etc., maintenance necessary..
Dan F

 

[Coatings=crack]

I’m a sio2 guy and would recommend laying down a good sio2 sealant like CP Reload, Gyeon Cure or one of the popular PBMG sio2, sealant (folks seem to like black fire).

No need to apply a sealant weekly. Look into a waterless that leaves something behind (polymers or wax) or better yet check CP Elixir out. From what I’ve read like a waterless on steroids. Works well with standard sealants too


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Accumulator]

Hi all, Im looking for some advice on a simple plan to maintain and protect my cars. I`ve spent countless hours and many late nights this past week going through the wealth of information on this site and have so many products and ideas I`m interested in, I cant sort it all out...

Welcome to Autopia!

After all your research I bet you already know what I`ll suggest, but here goes anyhow

..My main goal is protection and easy maintenance. Im not really concerned with the appearance of the cars in regards to scratches or depth of shine. I have a 1yr old car, in decent condition, and a 2012 impreza that needs lots of paint correction. My main goal is to keep the new car in good shape so its easy to wash every week and prevent it from needing much correction in the future...

That sounds good and sensible. As I like to say, "Life is not a Car Show". Fortunately, it`s not all *that* hard to achieve what I think you`re after.

So far, my plan is to start with valugard abc on the new car to strip contamination and prepare it for an easy to use sealant.

If you do`nt mind buiying those big gallon jugs, then that`s a good starting point. And it`s *easy*, if just a little time-consuming (hey, you`re basically just doing three washes- no big challenge, but it takes a bit of time).

Then, do a weekly wash followed by spray on sealant.

Woah there...that sounds like overkill. I sure don`t do that (except maybe in the Winter if a daily driver is getting really nasty every day). A LSP (Last Step Product, i.e., wax/sealant) like FK1000P will keep dirt from sticking well enough that I doubt a weekly wash will be necessary. And IME you sure won`t need any kind of SpraySealant that often as the FK will do fine by itself (although I would use something that "leaves stuff behind" as a Drying Aid, more on that later..).

.Some of my top picks for sealants are FK1000p..

I`d stop right there and just use that

.. My first question; If I wash and follow up with a spray sealant every week, do I even need a base sealant of something like FK1000p, or can i just use optiseal for everything? Less products is preferable to more. Will road grime wash off easily with a PH neutral soap if I go this route?

Just use the FK, which will protect against etching/etc. better than you`d believe and it sheds dirt/contamination incredibly well. Then see if you need to wash that often.

I use either FK425 (a *very* good Quick Detailer) or Garry Dean`s Infinite Use Detail Juice (a Rinseless Wash Concentrate) mixed to QD-strength as a Drying Aid, spritzing a little on the panels as I dry them. That`s more than sufficient on top of the FK1000P.

Then reapply the FK1000P as soon as you notice some change that you don`t like (e.g., the beading looks different). That won`t need done very often after you get two-three coats build up (apply one, then another after the next wash, then the last maybe a month later).

Again, my main goals are ease of use, efficiency and protection: if its easy enough...

Seriously, you won`t believe how well the FK fulfills your wish list.

So many more questions, but thats a start. Hopefully someone can help me sort this out because I feel lost! Thanks!

Keep asking Some of us love responding to this kind of inquiry.

 

[Accumulator]

Stokdgs- Hey, I appreciate your kind words when you referenced me. And for some reason (I guess based on your being a highly-experienced Pro with lots of products/ideas to choose from) I`m pleasantly surprised that you recommended the FK to a client (but not at all surprised that it`s working so well for him).

And I bet that Tahoe looked great, and will continue to for a good long time with very little upkeep

 

[Stokdgs]

Stokdgs- Hey, I appreciate your kind words when you referenced me. And for some reason (I guess based on your being a highly-experienced Pro with lots of products/ideas to choose from) I`m pleasantly surprised that you recommended the FK to a client (but not at all surprised that it`s working so well for him).

And I bet that Tahoe looked great, and will continue to for a good long time with very little upkeep

Mi Hermano !
It`s almost Fall here, I hope you guys are not much past that and into really bad weather yet..

It just made perfect sense, based on the OP`s own words of what he needed, to refer your name and one of your favorites !

Yes, I just got some FK1000 in recently, based on my new Client`s wishes, and I am so glad I did !!

It was exactly everything you have ever said about it - very easy to apply, easier to remove, and boy did it amp up the gloss ! In the sun, it was too blinding to look at it even with great Maui Jim`s on..
And as I said, it`s been a few months now, and he just told me the towel slipping off the hood story, which makes him a very happy Client..

That is one Big Can of FK1000 ! Will probably outlast this guy !

I think based on of course, on future Client`s wishes, I will keep using this FK1000 on the next round of vehicles, and see how it goes..
Thanks again, for all those years of time you put into this yourself - I would not have known about it !
Dan F

 

[Accumulator]

Stokdgs- Heh heh, I`m gonna pat myself on the back for a week for having contributed something of value to you. Not like you weren`t doing fine by your clients beforehand

And "heh heh, yeah..." about that "blinding in the sun". Whenever somebody says that it`s tough to get white/silver/etc. to look impressive, well....

 

[Kpage89]

Thanks for all the helpful feedback. I`m looking back on this post wondering if I wasn`t just looking for more encouragement to use FK1000 lol. I think the only thing that has made me hesitant is that I have to keep it off plastic trim, and the Ascent has LOTS of exterior plastic. I`m drawn to optiseal because it can be used to seal all surfaces, including the interior and glass. However I think your right that durability and protection wont be what I`m looking for and I`ll have to reapply often. I like the idea of being able to protect the car twice a year and still have the bugs rinse off with the pressure washer.
I also like using the blower to dry the car; if I`m not using a QD like IUDJ that leaves a polymer, will I still get these great results?
Also thinking I might be better off using iron x and tar x rather than the value guard system, which indicates that one of the chemicals is supposed to be kept off trim.... If I wash the car and apply iron x followed by tar x, is that sufficient prep before applying my sealant? Overkill?
What do you guys do to protect plastic and trim?
Thanks for all the help and expert suggestions!

 

[TheMeanGreen]

FK1000P kept up by some mix of a rinseless/waterless wash and a universal topper or spray wax. So far, in all the combinations that I have tried, Mckee`s 37 Rinse Free Wash & Wax at QD ratio mixed with Optimum Car Wax is almost the slickest quick detailer/drying aid that I have used to date, also it is the easiest drying to clean out of towels (DPC Revive/Reflect is the slickest that I have used to date). I have recently received my bottle of M`s37 Trademark Extender Spray Wax, mixed one ounce into the M`s37 at QD strength, not quite as slick as the RFWW/OCW, however I think it will help with dust repellency. I would love to try the Ultima Acrylic Waterless Wash mixed with the Acrylic Wax, maybe for Christmas.

I think a highly dilute-able, super slick waterless wash mixed with a super slick spray wax is the way to go on top of FK1000P. Maintaing the FK1000P with Meg`s Gold Class excellent, when diluted properly Gold Class has the bite to cut through minor road film, or be diluted to preserve the sealant. It would be good to have a more aggressive shampoo like Purple Power Boat & RV to cut through heavy road film, when needed.

A product that may also fit your bill appears to be TW Hybrid Solutions Ceramic Coating, looks to be extremely durable and is certainly trim friendly. However, I am not sure how well it does in protecting against bird poop etching, something that only FK1000P has been able to do.

 

[Accumulator]

The recent thread about the TW Ceramic Polish & Wax (think that`s the right name..) sure did impress me. I wonder if you could top it (after a while, like after the next wash) with the FK1000P. Hmm... anyhow..

Thanks for all the helpful feedback. I`m looking back on this post wondering if I wasn`t just looking for more encouragement to use FK1000 lol. I think the only thing that has made me hesitant is that I have to keep it off plastic trim, and the Ascent has LOTS of exterior plastic..

IME FK1000P isn`t *THAT* trim-unfriendly. There are LSPs that will *instantly* cause huge headaches if they get on trim, but IME the FK isn`t like that. I`ve even used it, yes deliberately on trim with OK results (no, no..."don`t try this at home kids!"). Just try to keep it off as best you can (not as hard as you might think once you give the whole process some thought..really) and wipe it off right away if it does get on the trim. As long as you do the thin *thin* *THIN* applications I`m confident you`ll do OK.

I`m drawn to optiseal because it can be used to seal all surfaces, including the interior and glass. However I think your right that durability and protection wont be what I`m looking for and I`ll have to reapply often. I like the idea of being able to protect the car twice a year and still have the bugs rinse off with the pressure washer..

You could do the FK and then use the OptiSeal too. I`ve never used OptiSeal, but I`m awfully confident that`ll work OK even if you get a little bit of one product on surfaces protected by the other.

I use a synthetic SprayWax on my exterior trim, so I sure do get the appeal of that approach. (Although I`d seal the trim first with Ultima Tire & Trim Guard Plus..if you want to get all Autopian about it).

But yeah..the way the FK protects and releases dirt with just a pressure washing is really something.

..I also like using the blower to dry the car; if I`m not using a QD like IUDJ that leaves a polymer, will I still get these great results?

Yes. I used the FK without any Drying Aids for years and often still do it that way if I`m reapplying it. But I do encourage you to use some kind of Drying Aid and the IUDJ is awfully cheap compared to, say...FK425 (a really, *really* good QD).

]quote]..Also thinking I might be better off using iron x and tar x rather than the value guard system, which indicates that one of the chemicals is supposed to be kept off trim....[/quote]

I`d ust use the ABC. I`ve never had any issues whatsoever from getting a little on surfaces I was trying to avoid. There`s *ZERO* way I`d subsitute another approach, but that`s just me.

If I wash the car and apply iron x followed by tar x, is that sufficient prep before applying my sealant? Overkill?

No idea as I`ve never used either of those, but I question whether you`d want to use the Ferrous Contamination product before removing the tar and whether a Tar Remover will get things as clean as a product like "A". Unless Tar is a big part of what you`re dealing with, I wouldn`t reach for a Tar Remover.

]quote]..What do you guys do to protect plastic and trim?[/quote]

On my wife`s Daily and my Tahoe (both old enough that I gotta take good care of `em) I just use some SprayWax at every wash, more or less like a Drying Aid but with a bit of, uhm...deliberation. That works OK as long as I do it every time but it`s not as good as what I do on good cars:


-Prep with Griot`s Rubber Care (even if the trim isn`t rubber)
-Seal with Ultima T&TG+
-Maintain with whatever Drying Aid I`m using

IME the Ultima T&TG+ is utterly Accumulator-proof and no biggie if you get a bit on surrounding areas. It does last long enough that I can easily justify its use and, sigh...I`ll probably end up using it on the Tahoe and A8 some day too when I get motivated.

I guess I`ll spare you (and TheMeanGreen) my usual rant about how mediocre I find Gold Class shampoo Eh, it`s better than Westleys at least. FWIW, the shampoos I`m using (Griot`s Car Wash and 3D Pink Car Soap) do *NOT* seem to degrade the FK1000P no matter how strong a mix. I use my Foamgun Concentrate (~3.5 oz of each + water to make a gallon) to clean my wheels and other stuff wearing FK1000P with no issues. APPARENTLY (famous last words..) some shampoos simply don`t have a discernable effect on the FK.

 

[Accumulator]

TheMeanGreen- Despite it`s supposedly containing Carnauba, I wonder whether OCW would cause issues with subsequently applied FK1000P...like "no sealants over wax!"-type issues. I kinda doubt it as I`ve used both on some of my headlights and never had an experience like "oh [snap] the FK isn`t bonding to that OCW I used last time" or anything like that.

ZERO question that you can use OCW on top of the FK, that works fine just like most anything else probably will.

And I still find it surprising that the FK bonds to [some leave-stuff-behind products], but then again those products are, AFAIK, leaving *synthetic* stuff behind and not natural waxes like carnauba.

 

[Accumulator]

Heh heh, I really like this thread! I hope Kpage89 gets exactly the kind of results he`s aiming for, it just sounds so *sensible* on all fronts.

 

[TheMeanGreen]

TheMeanGreen- Despite it`s supposedly containing Carnauba, I wonder whether OCW would cause issues with subsequently applied FK1000P...like "no sealants over wax!"-type issues. I kinda doubt it as I`ve used both on some of my headlights and never had an experience like "oh [snap] the FK isn`t bonding to that OCW I used last time" or anything like that.

ZERO question that you can use OCW on top of the FK, that works fine just like most anything else probably will.

And I still find it surprising that the FK bonds to [some leave-stuff-behind products], but then again those products are, AFAIK, leaving *synthetic* stuff behind and not natural waxes like carnauba.

I question whether or not the concentration of OCW is high enough to cause any problems. Quick question, do you think FK will bond to DG #601?

 

[Accumulator]

I question whether or not the concentration of OCW is high enough to cause any problems. Quick question, do you think FK will bond to DG #601?

Yeah, the whole "contains carnauba!" thing spikes my cynicism meter Might be a trace amount that means nothing functionally-speaking.

Noting that I`ve never used DG#601, I`d be *astounded* if it doesn`t work fine as a base for FK1000P. Just let it "cure" or whatever it does first, like...apply the FK after a day or so (not that I think there`s anything magical about a 24hr wait-time, IMO probably just a convenient rule-of-thumb that people take too seriously). IF/when you try it, I hope you post back, maybe on the big FK1000P thread (forget the actual title ).

 

[Fishroes]

Don’t forget to clay it
Like somebody on here said 90% of detailing is cleaning the paint
The cleaner the paint is the better your lsp will adhere to it

 

[Accumulator]

..Like somebody on here said 90% of detailing is cleaning the paint..

I didn`t see that, which probably saved some bandwidth as I`d take issue with it, at least without some kind of YMMV disclaimer, as it has not been my experience.

Don’t forget to clay it
The cleaner the paint is the better your lsp will adhere to it

Not to be argumentative, but IME that`s not always true.

For ages I used something like Pinnacle Paintwork Cleansing Lotion/etc. before rewaxing. And when Clay came out I jumped on that bandwagon in a huge way (never really jumped all the way off either ). But in hindsight, a whole lot of that prep work was undoubtedly unnecessary.

Now-a-days, I hardly *EVER* do any paint-cleaning/claying/etc. other then the quickie spot-claying when I wash (just obvious stuff that I notice didn`t come off with the regular washing). Like...I`ll reapply my LSPs for *years* without doing any prep at all and it works fine; just consider how my FK1000p durability claims sound so impossibly great!

I`ve simply never discerned any durability diffs related to this, not once, and figured it was basically an Urban Legend based on extreme cases. It was exactly the same as those claims that "regular MF pulls the LSP off your paint when buffing, so you need to use a special kind that`s made for LSPing". Interesting arguments that lead to some kinda-interesting experiments, and/but the results were pretty conclusive *for me under my conditions*.

Sure, if the vehicle is genuinely contaminated/neglected/etc. that`s different. And some LSPs die cleaner than others (IME you do need to paint-clean now and then with Souveran, it does *not* always die cleanly). But gee, I let our vehicles get *filthy* between washes; everything just washes right off and the paint is nice and clean (enough) without any of the "mandatory" (scare-quotes intentional ) claying/etc.

IMO the whole "you gotta clay/paint-clean/etc. before LSPing!" is mostly just a ploy to sell clay and PaintCleaners. If it were *really* mandatory I would`ve noticed by now.

Heh heh, I`d say that if the paint doesn`t come clean with regular washing, the problem is probably with either the LSP or the wash.

I also think that part of it might be people waiting until the LSP is really *dead* before reapplying, or otherwise letting contamination build up to where it`s an issue. IME while a LSP is still OK it`ll shed dirt well enough that you can just do another coat after a regular wash.

But OK, YMMV and all that, just trying to save people unnecessary work.