Shopping List for first Paint Correction and OC2

V

Van G

New member
Filling my cart with products to correct paint and apply OC2 to our 14 X1 and '10 Edge.

Nanoskin Glide Instant Detail Spray Lubricant Concentrate 16 oz.
Nanoskin AutoScrub Fine Grade Wash Mitt

Porter Cable 7424XP & CCS Pad Kit (2 Orange, 3 White Pads)
Optimum Compound II 8 oz.
Optimum Polish II

Optimum Opti-Coat 2.0 Permanent Paint Coating
Optimum Opti Dual Pro Applicator

I've already got a good setup for washing, plenty of MF, and IPA for wipe down.

Do I have the type/qty of pads?
Anything else I should be thinking about? (Iron X, ?)
Can OC2 be applied to windshield?
Can I do 2 cars with what I have?

Cheers,

Van G
 
Van G said:
Filling my cart with products to correct paint and apply OC2 to our 14 X1 and '10 Edge.

Nanoskin Glide Instant Detail Spray Lubricant Concentrate 16 oz.
Nanoskin AutoScrub Fine Grade Wash Mitt

Porter Cable 7424XP & CCS Pad Kit (2 Orange, 3 White Pads)
Optimum Compound II 8 oz.
Optimum Polish II

Optimum Opti-Coat 2.0 Permanent Paint Coating
Optimum Opti Dual Pro Applicator

I've already got a good setup for washing, plenty of MF, and IPA for wipe down.

Do I have the type/qty of pads?
Anything else I should be thinking about? (Iron X, ?)
Can OC2 be applied to windshield?
Can I do 2 cars with what I have?

Cheers,

Van G
Click to expand...

While it is not my place to tell you what to do, your post implies that you are relatively new to serious detailing. I would recommend that you start with a sealant rather than a coating. It takes experience to install these products properly. If you screw up a sealant, it is pretty easy to remove it and redo the panel. Coatings are permanent, though, so if you screw up a panel (or the whole car) you may do damage to the paint underneath while trying to get the coating off.

There are loads of good sealants on the market that you can use to learn the techniques involved.

Just my $.02 worth.

:welcome:
 
tedj101 said:
While it is not my place to tell you what to do, your post implies that you are relatively new to serious detailing. I would recommend that you start with a sealant rather than a coating. It takes experience to install these products properly. If you screw up a sealant, it is pretty easy to remove it and redo the panel. Coatings are permanent, though, so if you screw up a panel (or the whole car) you may do damage to the paint underneath while trying to get the coating off.

There are loads of good sealants on the market that you can use to learn the techniques involved.

Just my $.02 worth.

:welcome:
Click to expand...

Appreciate the input. I've got an older Jetta that we are selling which I'll do a paint correction on and then seal. Figured this would be a good introduction to paint correction.

I'm confident that I can get the vehicles prepp'd properly for OC2 and its application seems fairly straight forward - put it on thin and even, check your work.
 
Van G said:
Appreciate the input. I've got an older Jetta that we are selling which I'll do a paint correction on and then seal. Figured this would be a good introduction to paint correction.

I'm confident that I can get the vehicles prepp'd properly for OC2 and its application seems fairly straight forward - put it on thin and even, check your work.
Click to expand...

Van,

While it sounds simple, and it is when you know how to do it, getting it wrong (which is easy) can create a very difficult situation. Go to the Paint Correction forum here on Autopia and read the recent thread "anyone seen this kind of streaking?" You will see the trauma of a professional detaler trying to get an apparently improperly applied coating off (he didn't apply it). Note that he is working with a paint gauge as he takes the old layer off to ensure that he doesn't get through the clearcoat.

Given that you are going to sell the Jetta, why not just use a sealant. It will look as good (Blackfire CS is easy to apply and looks awesome), and if you make mistake, you can correct it right away with some quick detailer and an MF towel.

Just my advice, mind...
 
I'll take another read through the thread. Plan for the Jetta was to correct, polish, and seal. Thanks for the Black Ice suggestion.


Cheers,

Van G
 
Van G said:
Filling my cart with products to correct paint and apply OC2 to our 14 X1 and '10 Edge.

Nanoskin Glide Instant Detail Spray Lubricant Concentrate 16 oz.
Nanoskin AutoScrub Fine Grade Wash Mitt

Porter Cable 7424XP & CCS Pad Kit (2 Orange, 3 White Pads)
Optimum Compound II 8 oz.
Optimum Polish II

Optimum Opti-Coat 2.0 Permanent Paint Coating
Optimum Opti Dual Pro Applicator

I've already got a good setup for washing, plenty of MF, and IPA for wipe down.

Do I have the type/qty of pads?
Anything else I should be thinking about? (Iron X, ?)
Can OC2 be applied to windshield?
Can I do 2 cars with what I have?

Cheers,

Van G
Click to expand...


If you do choose to use Compound II & Polish II it is my understanding you will need to do and Eraser / IPa wipe down. Due to this I would suggest the Hyper "Spray" Compound & Polish. With these you can simply do an ONR wipe-down before OC2.0.


I would do a full decon and use IronX as well just to make sure you have everything covered. I would hate to seal in iron that could rust down the road.



I do agree that doing your first application on an older car is a great idea. OC is not all that hard to apply and simply takes some practice. And you won't know until you try.


Ideally you should use 8-10cc on a regular sedan including paint & wheels. Opti doesn't suggest apply OC to glass. I personally agree and would suggest using Opti-Glass. It is made for that application and works well.





At some point everyone was new to coatings before they began testing and applying them. That is why we are here to encourage and share our knowledge.
 
TroyScherer said:
If you do choose to use Compound II & Polish II it is my understanding you will need to do and Eraser / IPa wipe down. Due to this I would suggest the Hyper "Spray" Compound & Polish. With these you can simply do an ONR wipe-down before OC2.0.


I would do a full decon and use IronX as well just to make sure you have everything covered. I would hate to seal in iron that could rust down the road.



I do agree that doing your first application on an older car is a great idea. OC is not all that hard to apply and simply takes some practice. And you won't know until you try.


Ideally you should use 8-10cc on a regular sedan including paint & wheels. Opti doesn't suggest apply OC to glass. I personally agree and would suggest using Opti-Glass. It is made for that application and works well.





At some point everyone was new to coatings before they began testing and applying them. That is why we are here to encourage and share our knowledge.
Click to expand...

^^ I Couldnt have said it better.

Van,
I started out the same way. My brother had an older vehicle that he was going to sell so he let me practice and perfect my skills. There is only so much reading and watching videos you can do before you actually have to jump in and get your feet wet. It's much better to practice this way rather than doing work for a customer or friend where you might make a mistake and have a hard time explaining that the issue has to be repaired by a professional. Or even worse, never attempting to gain the experience at all...
My first coating application, I did a small test area near the rear lower half of the car. Once I built my confidence, I continued to apply from there. If you have the patience and passion to learn and grow, I think you'll do fine. Troy also made some great suggestions.
 
My take on this is:

1. ALL Optimum polishes are compatible with OC 2.0. You can do an IPA wipe down after polishing - but you will be fine.

2. IMHO you are picking all the right products by going the Optimum route for polishes and the correct applicator.

3. It seems like you have what you will need on that list.

4. If there is an area that can not be polished due to location, size, or whatever reason - and it has "wax" on it - polish it by hand with the Optimum polishes to remove the "wax".

5. OC isn't really that hard to apply IME. You just need to work slowly and carefully and check your work.

Some tips:

1. Use more product opposed to less product, but don't use so much you get high spots.

2. To level any high spots wipe as light as possible, don't do a lot of wiping with a towel all over the panel. Wipe lightly - only where needed.

To answer your previous questions:

1. I'd get more cutting pads (orange) than polishing pads (white).

2. People have applied OC to glass, although I don't think Optimum recommends it.

3. You may or may not get enough OC to do 2 cars in one syringe. It depends how big the cars are, how heavy you apply it, and how many areas of the cars you are coating. If your just doing paint on normal cars, my guess is you will have enough.
 
Regarding your list, a Waterless Wash to use as clay lube, to wipe the panels just prior to putting the DA down (as you move around the car, the panels waiting to be processed will be getting dusty and maybe splattered with polish, and will need a wipe down), and to spit shine afterwards.

Waterless Wash: Poorboy's Spray & Wipe or ONR diluted or Ultimate Waterless Wash diluted.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top