Severe paint contamination

T

TedNugent

New member
My friend is dying of cancer and I have to sell his Chevy truck ASAP which has sat for extended periods of time in carports, covered with soot from the nearby freeway.

I think my wrists would fall off trying to clay bar this stuff. There`s just so much of it. Do you know of a better solution?

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Actually claying is relatively easy.. If you`re sure it`s soot and contamination and not artillery fungus.

But they do make a clay alternative for pc etc.

Sorry about your friend.
 
Welcome to the forum. Sorry to hear about your friend. Are those pics after washing? I agree with JBM. Use the Valuguard system to decontaminate and then clay to remove anything that remains.
 
TedNugent- Welcome to Autopia!

The ValuGard ABC system is my usual recommendation for jobs like that, and I`d get their Bug Pad to scrub with while the products are dwelling.

That`s so nasty that I might go with the FinishKare FK1119 instead of the "A" and a color-indicator acidic product in place of the "B". (The "C" is just a regular ph-neutral shampoo.) But I`d use their Bug Pad no matter which brand of chemical I chose. That`ll make for far less subsequent work, although you might still need to do a little claying anyhow.

Oh man would it be easier to find a member here in your area and pay to have it done, but if you DIY it it`ll be more time than effort with the right chemicals and that pad.
 
eagle1 makes a synthetic clay mitt OTC- never tried it but if you are not close to a place to get something from in a pinch, that might be your best option for non traditional clay


a chemical decontamination prior to the claying will make you have to clay less most likely
 
512detail said:
eagle1 makes a synthetic clay mitt OTC- never tried it but if you are not close to a place to get something from in a pinch, that might be your best option for non traditional clay


a chemical decontamination prior to the claying will make you have to clay less most likely
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thats where i was going with my question... a little Iron-X might prove beneficial on that vehicle
 
Thanks for the responses. My friend`s health is deteriorating fast and I, as his Power of Attorney, don`t have the time to mess with it.

Can you recommend anyone in the Orange County, CA area (near Disneyland) who will charge a fair price to detail the truck using the methods recommended above?
 
I`ve never tried an ABC style decon. I don`t have Bug Pads, or a high pressure washer.

I DO have Poorboy`s Mesh Bug MF, 3Ds BDX (similar to Iron X?), car wash soaps, mitts, etc.

I work down the street from Disney. Harbor and Broadway.

I`m actually in the middle of moving, so don`t really have time on the weekends to do a very thorough detail on it. And given what is shown in the pic, along with what people are suggesting, I may not even have the supplies/skill set to get the job done.

That said, I`d be willing to try during the weekdays. I have roughly 45 min during lunch. And can push maybe 2 hours after I get off my regular job. I`ll do what I can to make it look better.

Feel free to text me at 323.744.0659

-Jesus
 
Thanks JustJesus. I`m actually in Fullerton. The more I think about this, it probably needs to be done (i.e. completed) in the next couple days so I can sell it immediately. Plus, the inside needs a lot of shampooing and other cleaning since he was a smoker.

The truck needs a new rear differential so it can`t be driven far. I`m not planning to fix the differential, just get the truck looking nice again. Still worth a decent amount because it only has 62K miles.

My friend already signed the pink slip, but if he were to die soon, I worry about finding myself in a situation where I have to "sell" or gift the truck to myself in the interim because I dragged my feet too long.
 
TedNugent said:
Thanks for the responses. My friend`s health is deteriorating fast and I, as his Power of Attorney, don`t have the time to mess with it.

Can you recommend anyone in the Orange County, CA area (near Disneyland) who will charge a fair price to detail the truck using the methods recommended above?
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Contact Darren Priest of Auto Fetish Detail. He`s a mobile detailer in the orange county area.

Expert Mobile Car Detailing done right, on time, everytime! 714-624-0804
 
I found Darren`s website and YouTube videos. Seems like a good guy.

How much would you guys spend on a detailing job? (1) this is a truck, and the likely buyer will be a contractor/handyman/landscaping kind of guy who probably doesn`t care much about appearance. (2) because of the rear differential issues and a slightly bent rear bumper, this only qualifies as a "Fair" or less than Fair condition vehicle. KBB says a "Fair" truck of this year, given its low mileage is worth $4,800. I was quoted $1,150 to rebuild the differential.

I`m thinking start the sale price at about $4,000 and shoot for no less than $3,500. Whatever I spend of my friend`s money should at least pay for itself. Thanks in advance.
 
Accumulator said:
That`s so nasty that I might go with the FinishKare FK1119 instead of the "A" and a color-indicator acidic product in place of the "B". (The "C" is just a regular ph-neutral shampoo.) But I`d use their Bug Pad no matter which brand of chemical I chose.
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Hey Accum, curious why in this instance you think Finish Kare 1119 Would do better than Valugards A?
 
Bert said:
Hey Accum, curious why in this instance you think Finish Kare 1119 Would do better than Valugards A?
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I`d pretty much expect FK1119 to be more effective in any instance as IME (which is far from exhaustive...Ron K. could provide a much more informed opinion that I can!) it`s simply a more potent product.

But hey...maybe in some instances the stuff in "A" will just happen to be the *exact* right thing to solve a particular problem whereas the stuff in 1119 is not.

Aw geeze...wish I were more knowledgeable about the two products...both have always done what I expected them to, I just chose the FK for cars that were in especially nasty condition due to it being a nastier product. Hardly scientific huh? :o
 
Accumulator said:
I`d pretty much expect FK1119 to be more effective in any instance as IME (which is far from exhaustive...Ron K. could provide a much more informed opinion that I can!) it`s simply a more potent product.

But hey...maybe in some instances the stuff in "A" will just happen to be the *exact* right thing to solve a particular problem whereas the stuff in 1119 is not.

Aw geeze...wish I were more knowledgeable about the two products...both have always done what I expected them to, I just chose the FK for cars that were in especially nasty condition due to it being a nastier product. Hardly scientific huh? :o
Click to expand...

I wondered about that stuff, now that you explained it so well...... I`m still wonderin` :huh:
 
Heh heh, so much for my ability to "explain it so well"! :o

Whatcha still wonderin` about? (Note I`m about to go offline until tomorrow, so don`t rush to respond...)
 
@ TedNugent - I wish I was closer, I would do my best to help you out in your cause, even though with pics, I still don`t know what I`d be dealing with. God bless you for doing your best to do right by your friend.
 
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