Seeking input on my detailing plan

[eljay]

I would like to detail my 2006 M3 and I'm looking for input on products and steps to use.



The previous owner told me that he has used PC 7424 on this car with great results. I'd say that paint is in a pretty good shape. There are minimal swirl marks here and there and from a quick look around, the paint looks to be well-protected with no gritty spots while washing. That said, it does have a few defects. I have taken pictures of those and would like your opinion on what to do about them as I plan to keep this car for a long time!

The hood has a number of tiny rock chips. None of them have gone deep to the metal, but do expose the prime coat.



As well, I found a 1-inch wide spiderweb/crack of the clearcoat on the hood. I believe, there's no remedy for it besides re-spray, correct? See here:

Since it would take me a million years to properly fill-in all the rock chips and I cannot do anything about the spiderweb, I would like to find the best way to preserve what's there and get the hood respray down the road when I have some cash to throw at it. Or do you think filling in the chips is worth the effort?

Another couple of spots that will need attention are a couple of scratches on the trunk. See here:

Given that the paint overall seems to be OK and knowledge that the previous owner used PC on this car, I don't want to do the standard 3-step process that seems to be so popular since I want to preserve as much of the clearcoat as possible. So, here's my plan:

1. Wash & dry

2. Clay bar the entire car

3. Use scratch remover by hand on the trunk scratches (what product? or should the scratches be filled in with touch-up paint first?)

3. PC with white pad and light polisher/filler product (Klasse All-In-One?) for the entire car

4. PC with finishing pad and Collinite 845 Insulator wax for the entire car



Will this work in protecting my paint properly? Or should I clay and then apply a glaze product to fill-in any swirls and then wax? Also, are there any products that will "fill" the spiderweb on the hood? I don't want it to spread, especially since it's right over the engine heat.



Thank you very much for all the input!

 

[Accumulator]

eljay- My oldest Audi (bought *very* used from a family friend) is in far worse shape than that, but it's holding up just fine. You'd be surprised how well a "all trashed, needs repainted" vehicle of good build-quality can hang on!



While I understand your concerns, I do think you oughta do a "regular polishing". You can just take it a little easy...no, you won't, IMO, take off too much clear. Again, this is based on how I've done with vehicles in similar/worse condition (and I've done a scad of 'em ).



I'd start with a decontamination wash using ValuGard's "ABC" system. That will probably eliminate the need to clay. (Hey, I'd do that on your VW too.)



I wouldn't bother filling in any of the issues with clear as you'd just have to level it anyhow and that's the same can of worms that I cautioned you about in the other thread. If you do want to do it, use the Langka approach.



Do a full compounding and polishing as per my suggestions in the other thread. Again, I *am* considering the "fragile remaining clearcoat" issue.



KAIO, while a very good product, doesn't fill. The minor marring that some products *do* fill will be (safely) removed by your polishing, and the deeper stuff wouldn't really be concealed much anyhow.



You could use an AIO that *does* fill a bit (e.g., HD Speed) for the final polish and then top with your 845.



Get the whole car clean and shiny and well-waxed, and the overall (good) look will make the flaws seem a lot less significant. That old Audi of mine is, cosmetically, a complete POS yet it gets so many compliments that my dealer once called me up to find out what wax I use.."our other customers keep asking how to get their (new) cars looking that nice!". It's the overall effect that counts and your two cars oughta clean up just great.



That cracking on the hood is something you'll just have to live with. The decontamination oughta help slow/arrest the degradation there and as I said, if you keep it well waxed/maintained from now on you might be amazed by how well it'll hold up.

 

[Dan]

I'd recommend using a paint meter/depth gauge before you do anything. Knowing that the PO had done polishing beforehand means there may be areas that are critically thin. While you are probably ok to do a light polishing over the entire car, I would not dare to do any spot corrections without knowing what you have to work with. In fact the hood cracking may be due to thin paint.

 

[eljay]

Dan, I wish I had access to a paint meter. I don't think I'm ready to invest in one for the amount of work I need. But you do raise a good point about how that cracking happened.



Accumulator, thanks for the suggestions. Very helpful!

So, for this car, would I still need to do cutting with something like HD Cut? As you said, the same process as for the VW: HD Cut, HD Polish, 845?

Would HD Speed save me a step on this car?

 

[Dan]

Dan, I wish I had access to a paint meter. I don't think I'm ready to invest in one for the amount of work I need. But you do raise a good point about how that cracking happened.

Post up your location, I'm sure if someone is close, they wouldn't mind taking some readings for you for a six pack or something.

 

[Accumulator]

I wish I had access to a paint meter. I don't think I'm ready to invest in one for the amount of work I need. But you do raise a good point about how that cracking happened...So, for this car, would I still need to do cutting with something like HD Cut?

I'd kinda @$$umed that was gonna be the case. It's a known-risk issue now, right? SO just take it a little easy but *yeah* I'd still use the Cut. I think you'll be surprised how mild the "aggressive product and pad combo" ends up being.

As you said, the same process as for the VW: HD Cut, HD Polish, 845?

Would HD Speed save me a step on this car?

Yeah. The Speed would replace the HD Polish step and would provide some protection, allowing you to just add the 845 later, like after the next wash. That's one reason why I *like* that kind of approach (using an AIO-wih-cut for the final polish). BUT...the HD Polish will leave a nicer finish. Would it matter on silver? Eh...I myself would do the Polish approach on my S8 and probably use the Speed approach on my other vehicles. So hint hint...maybe just get the Speed.



Potential issue is that I don't know how well the Cut finishes out, never used it. But I bet the Speed will be an OK follow-up.