Scratches aren't deep but won't come out...

T

thedarksyde

New member
I just used PIIIRC with the PC on these scratches and they won't come out, they are not deep (you can not feel them at all) but they don't seem to come up. Any suggestions?



They came up a little but still very visable! These were from a tree that was low hanging and scratched the roof of the civic...



My pics host is down right now, so I can not show you the pics.
 
Yep, that's the infamous hard Audi clear for ya. That's why I got the Cyclo. Accumulator is a big fan of PI III and can fill you in on the tricks to using it. You might also want to try Menzerna and 1z. Along with 3m,these 2 are my primarly polishing brands
 
First a few questions:

1. What pad were you using?

2. How large an area were you working at a time and many applications did you make?

3. PC speed?

4. How fast was your arm speed?

5. How long did you work it?
 
A little ScratchX by hand with foam applicator pad would knock it down a bit before your 3M RC. For extra bite, use a mf applicator instead of foam, but only as a last resort.
 
I'm not sure Scratch X on an Audi paint is going to do much. I tried it once a while ago, my paint could've literally laughed at it. It might be better suited for mild etching that a QD or wash couldn't handle. Just my experience
 
Hmm, then I don't know what else he can do short of getting a rotary. :nixweiss



I suggested ScratchX because I used it on my mother's black Mercedes which has very hard clear too, and it did an awesome job. Now, with the foam applicator it was fairly mild but with a terry applicator it became extremely aggressive and required 3M RC to buff off the marring left behind. I figured a mf pad would be somewhere between the foam and terry.



Another option would be to just use a little RC on a terry pad. I find everything becomes more aggressive when used by hand and a terry pad.
 
I find ScratchX to be pretty mild...even in the MOL primer Mike Phillips did, he said you really need to work it for a while. I think as a consumer product, they didn't want it to be too aggressive, lest people wind up with a big hazed area around all their scratches.
 
This is on a civic not the audi...



I am using a Sonus Orange Pad.



I use speed2.5 to apply it and up it to 5.5 to work it in.



I am working it until it dusts up.



About 1/3 of the roof, around the 2X2 area I should be.
 
All I can say is just keep at it and move extremely slow to allow the polish to do it's job. The PC isn't the most aggressive method in the world so it's going to take time. Stick to speed 5 so you're not drying the RC too fast, and just let it do its magic.
 
Ive used 3m Perfect it III RC and find its a very good scratch remover in my tests and a very good product overall, but I had to do them by hand, not with PC. Scratches I could not get with Menzerna IP came right out with 3m, allbeit by hand
 
this is why my PC got put on the back burner for the rotary. i would say jump up and do it the right way with a rotary.



Vernon
 
Yep , sorry about the confusion. FWIW Scratch X didn't much on my gf's Accord via foam pad, terry, mf, you name it :nixweiss Didn't want to get carpal tunnel syndrome from it.



It did seem to do well on the family beater Maxima though.
 
To get more bite out of PI-III RC try using it with a 4" pad. The PC doesn't bog down as much with those as it does with the "regular" pads people usually use.



Try a yellow cutting pad instead of the orange one.



Or do the "worst" of it by hand with terry.



Or use 1z Ultra or Hi-Temp Medium Cut.



Or use a Cyclo or a rotary.
 
This will sound evasive, but I'm in the Akron/Canton area. I keep personal info *very* general when it comes to the 'net. That's why there hasn't been a "Meet the Accumulator" post. Paranoid? Possibly, but I'm just not taking chances. For the same reason, I generally shy away from meeting people that I only know online.



FWIW, the people who've advised me on security issues generally wanted me to be *more* careful about this sort of thing than I already am. Sorry if all this makes me sound like a jerk :o
 
I understand. I saw your location and thought I would ask. I grew up in Canton. Most of my family lives up in North Canton (Jackson township) right near Belden Village mall. Went to school in Massillon.
 
Thanks for understanding. The BV area has sure exploded recently, I hope your family has some breathing room.



Heh heh, sorry for taking this so far ot, folks :o
 
I finally had a chance to use the PC and the pads that I got from CMA. I tried to detail the hood of my friend's 92 LeBaron convertible using a yellow pad with Menzerna IP and an orange pad with 3M PI-II rubbing compound.



I varied the speeds, anywhere from 3.5 - 5.



While the car looked a lot nicer (removed the oxidization) after the work, the scratches and swirls are still there and didn't look like they went anywhere. I can't feel them, but they're still there.



Any suggestions on removing those? I was thinking I might need to move up to a more abrasive compound. Thoughts?
 
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