School me please.........

Polish Angel engine is a waterless way to clean your engine. It's a supper effective cleaner ever for very soiled areas. Spray on adjatate and wipe off. Use throw away MF or rags the first round. I used a combo of uber lug brushes and a tips the first time and a ton of throw away MF. After that maintenance is easy. Just a quick spray and wipe.

Ronkh said:
Gotta look into it
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JSFM35X said:
Polish Angel engine is a waterless way to clean your engine. It's a supper effective cleaner ever for very soiled areas. Spray on adjatate and wipe off. Use throw away MF or rags the first round. I used a combo of uber lug brushes and a tips the first time and a ton of throw away MF. After that maintenance is easy. Just a quick spray and wipe.
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Sounds a lot like Blackfire AIO.
 
tropicsteve said:
gunk has been around forever and is still my favorite. brake/parts cleaner is a more solvent based, but can really cut through the heavier grease. definitely avoid the more harsh carb cleaners.
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Only problem with brake cleaner is that it is very harsh on plastic, rubber, vinyl, paint, pretty much anything that's not bare metal. I prefer a good degreaser over brake clean for most things.
 
Im with Troy Sherer - "I aint scared of no wires"...

It it was me, it would be Meguiars Super Degreaser, sprayed over entire compartment, under hood, not on any hood insulation, fenderwells, everything, let it sit for a few mins and then pressure wash it all off...
An amazing amount of dirt and grease will come off easily.. This product is low foaming and rinses off really well..

Just because its a pressure washer doesnt mean you have to hold it right up against the parts... You can hold it farther back and still get good results, experiment with this...
I have never hurt an engine, compartment, wiring, anything, doing it this way, for decades...

Of course old school engines, need to put a plastic bag or something over the air cleaner and try to fit something over the distributor as best you can..

Worst thing that can happen - you get some condensation in the inside of the distributor cap and have to pop the 2 holders out, lift it up and wipe it dry with a towel and it will be fine...
If the engine is overnight cool to begin with, there is less chance of getting any condensation under the cap..
All Ford engines were notorious for getting wet under the cap - Chevrolet, not so much, but if it doesnt start up, I would look there first...

All engines get wet in the rain under the hood from water coming in through the radiator and from underneath and through the openings below the fenderwells...

I would also do it and then leave the hood open while you wash off the rest of the car, then come back and blow out the entire compartment, especially the engine as best you can, and then start it up and let it dry some places you cant get to ....
A little ride down the freeway will also help if you think you need it..
Good luck !
Dan F
 
Stokdgs said:
Just because its a pressure washer doesnt mean you have to hold it right up against the parts... You can hold it farther back and still get good results, experiment with this... I have never hurt an engine, compartment, wiring, anything, doing it this way, for decades...
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Ron, Dan is saying pretty much what we were talking about earlier. He's one of those "Old Dogs" you can bank on.
 
Ronkh said:
Used to use brake cleaner to clean my guns, till I got plastic......
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Simple Green on Glocks and AR's, it gets metal that squeaky clean you can feel with your finger. I have a friend that told me when he went through basic training they'd send them to the showers with their M16's, a brush and a bottle of Simple Green. Thought that was funny.
 
GearHead_1 said:
Simple Green on Glocks and AR's, it gets metal that squeaky clean you can feel with your finger. I have a friend that told me when he went through basic training they'd send them to the showers with their M16's, a brush and a bottle of Simple Green. Thought that was funny.
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I took my M4 to the shower every day in Iraq. Rinsed all the dirt/sand off broke it open overnight and let it dry while I slept. They go together fast enough for those short nights. I don't know that I'd use simple green on my guns... I love Simple Green but things have their place. Plus, to my knowledge, Simple Green doesn't break down the copper an carbon deposits. I don't really clean my Glock anyway, brush it off and a couple smudges of FrogLube on the slide and that's all. Just my $0.02.
 
Simple Green and a Bore Snake works very well for regular maintanence cleanings in both the applications I've mentioned. I'm speaking from the mindeset that says if you take it out and put 100 rounds through it, field strip it, clean it. If you're putting enough rounds down the pipe to have sigificant copper fouling no doubt a dedicated cleaner would be appropriate. I've seen experiments where 25,000 rounds have been run through an AR with nothing more than a spot of oil from time to time, it kept running until the bolt carrier cracked. This is not the type of maintenance of which I speak. American Gunsmith Institue is fairly well known and equally as well respected as a Gun Smith trainer. AGI and others make the Simple Green recommendation on Glocks. I've tried it, it works. YMMV but you won't know until you give it a shot. Ha, "give it shot", I crack myself up.
 
I like any rinseless wash in a pump-up sprayer, and some rinseless in a bucket (at wash strength). I dampen 'work' MF towels in the bucket and just clean what I can reach. You could also use brushes and wheel woolies to get to other areas.
I did an 84 Corvette with the factory markings still on it using this method.
 
mc2hill said:
I like any rinseless wash in a pump-up sprayer, and some rinseless in a bucket (at wash strength). I dampen 'work' MF towels in the bucket and just clean what I can reach. You could also use brushes and wheel woolies to get to other areas.
I did an 84 Corvette with the factory markings still on it using this method.
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I use rinseless on mine most of the time. Like the idea of wheel woolies. But this has a lot tougher area to work in than an 84. But I think I could get a lot done with this type of method. Not completely, but a lot. Thanks
 
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