Requesting advice

HiSpdJunkie

HiSpdJunkie

New member
Thank you for all of the fantastic knowledge supplied on this site. I have already learned alot but as most n00bs I have a few questions. :help:

Starting tomorrow and finishing up on Friday I will be doing a complete detail on my truck for a show on Saturday. I have just about everything I need but did forget a few things (possibly). I am going to start with a full washing with dawn to strip any residue and have a clean surface for the next steps. Please chime in if you have a better method. Next I will clay the whole truck.

This is where I have questions. I have a pc 7424 with orange, white, yellow and black pads. For polish I have PB SSR2.5 and SSR1. I planned on using an orange pad and the SSR2.5 to start and I am not sure what pad to use for the SSR1. I also forgot to get a sealer. The only options I have on hand for the next step are Nattys Blue Paste Wax and half a bottle of NXT.

Can I go straight from the polish to the wax? Should I use the NXT then Nattys Blue or just use the Nattys Blue by itself? If I really need to use a sealer or something in between polish and wax can you recommend something I can pick up locally? I know a few places around here stock 3m, Meguiar's, Mothers and the other common parts store brands.

Thank you in advance
Mike
:dcrules
 
Since we don't know what an orange pad or a white pad is (different mfgs use different colors for different abrasiveness) I'll just toss out there to test an area first using the least aggressive approach possible. Don't jump right in and start using the most abrasive and aggressive combo you have on hand. Sure, you might have to go that route, but you might possibly save a polish step if a less aggressive polish and pad combo will do the trick (i.e. you won't have to follow with a finer polish).

If it were me, and not knowing the condition of your finish, I might start out with the SSR1 and a polish pad and see where that got me. If that isn't going to work, step up the polish or the pad (or both) and see if that does what you need it to. Possibly the SSR 2.5 and a polish pad or the SSR1 and a light cut pad might work. There really is not a "magic" combo that anyone on here can tell you to start out with - just start on the lower end of the aggressive scale at the beginning and work your way up from there.
 
HiSpdJunkie said:
This is where I have questions. I am not sure what pad to use for the SSR1.
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The white one.

Can I go straight from the polish to the wax?
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Yes.

Should I use the NXT then Nattys Blue or just use the Nattys Blue by itself?
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Try a small area and see if you like adding the Natty's after the NXT. See for yourself if you get a better look or feel. Just don't top the Natty's with the NXT that would be the wrong order.

The combination will probably get you some better durability but I'm betting the Natty's by itself will give you just as good of gloss and depth without the NXT.

If I really need to use a sealer or something in between polish and wax can you recommend something I can pick up locally?
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The NXT is a sealant and will be your "sealer" The Natty's is a "sealer" too for that matter.

Don't try to add too many steps. The SSR1 will finish out the paint just fine. All you will need after that is a good wax or sealant to "seal" the paint.
 
Thank you for the fast responses. The pads I have are all Lake Country. The finish is imperial blue metallic and has some severe swirls, light scratches and spider webbing. Between the hours I worked and winter weather the paint is looking pretty beat up. From what i am seeing on here and other resources online I will need the 2.5 and orange pad. I will try the lighter combo first to see the results.
 
One more piece of advice for you when using the PC to perform "somewhat serious" defect removal - be very, very patient. Don't move the PC too fast and be prepared to make multiple passes.

I think I remember LC's orange pad being a cutting pad. used in conjunction with SSR 2.5, you will most likely need to follow with the SSR1 and a polish pad to remove the haze or micromarring. Just remember - be patient! :)
 
HiSpdJunkie said:
Thank you for the fast responses. The pads I have are all Lake Country. The finish is imperial blue metallic and has some severe swirls, light scratches and spider webbing. Between the hours I worked and winter weather the paint is looking pretty beat up. From what i am seeing on here and other resources online I will need the 2.5 and orange pad. I will try the lighter combo first to see the results.
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That's best practice to use least aggressive method but from what you just said, I would go straight to the 2.5;)
 
Awesome advise. The LC Orange pad is the curring pad. I will be as patient as humanly possible. The weather is going to be in the mid 60s tomorrow and 70s Friday. Sunny both day my driveway is shaded from 11am on so I am good there. I will be taking before and after pics to show what I was working with and what I end with.
 
HiSpdJunkie said:
Awesome advise. The LC Orange pad is the curring pad. I will be as patient as humanly possible. The weather is going to be in the mid 60s tomorrow and 70s Friday. Sunny both day my driveway is shaded from 11am on so I am good there. I will be taking before and after pics to show what I was working with and what I end with.
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Since it seems you got all the advice you need. Let me wish you luck, you have a great 2 days to do it.

Just remember pics are required.
 
JaredPointer said:
One more piece of advice for you when using the PC to perform "somewhat serious" defect removal - be very, very patient. Don't move the PC too fast and be prepared to make multiple passes.

I think I remember LC's orange pad being a cutting pad. used in conjunction with SSR 2.5, you will most likely need to follow with the SSR1 and a polish pad to remove the haze or micromarring. Just remember - be patient! :)
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That's a fact,:bigups I just did a black suburban and the total paint work was 8-9 hrs.The word patients is paramount and you might have to hold the PC in one place for a short time to get out the trouble spots.

Its well worth the effort when its complete! :love:
 
Troy@DetailCity said:
Try a small area and see if you like adding the Natty's after the NXT. See for yourself if you get a better look or feel. Just don't top the Natty's with the NXT that would be the wrong order.

The combination will probably get you some better durability but I'm betting the Natty's by itself will give you just as good of gloss and depth without the NXT.



The NXT is a sealant and will be your "sealer" The Natty's is a "sealer" too for that matter.
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I didn't like nxt under nattys red.I stripped it back off and redid it with optiseal.Looked much better imo
 
I am going to try half the roof with the combo and half with just Natty's Blue to see. If I don't like it then I don't have to worry about other people seeing it. :) My truck is low but not low enough to see the roof easily. All totaled I think the detail is going to take me about 16 hours, including the interior. Not counting on that though, just a guess.
 
HiSpdJunkie said:
I am going to try half the roof with the combo and half with just Natty's Blue to see. If I don't like it then I don't have to worry about other people seeing it. :) My truck is low but not low enough to see the roof easily. All totaled I think the detail is going to take me about 16 hours, including the interior. Not counting on that though, just a guess.
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I don't doubt it at all...it may take you even longer than that to prepare for a show :notme: ask Black Bart :D
 
Six hours so far today and I only got done the initial wash, clayed everything, the engine department and the interior. Tomorrow I break out the pc and SSR1 and 2.5. Hope to have that done by lunch. Lighting sucked for pictures so I don't have many yet.
 
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