Removing Rejex

3

300WeatherbyMag

New member
I was a Zaino user who tried out Rejex on a preowned M5 I bought, but am thinking I want to go back. I used Mothers step two Sealer and Glaze, followed by Rejex and while the shine is great, the minor spider webbing kills me (why couldn't the previous owner wash the car himself!). I'm now set on using Zaino ZPC to kill the spider webs, and have bought a porter cable 7424XP and some various Lake Country pads.



My question is: how do I remove rejex? I don't believe Dawn will do it...will the claybar? Does it even matter - since the ZPC will surely remove it? I just want to be sure the old Rejex won't somehow interact with the ZPC and give me a problem when I'm using the porter cable.



After removing Rejex, I'm planning on using Zaino ZPC with a white Lake Country pad on the porter cable, followed by coats of Z-5 and Z-2 (Z-6 in between).



Also - I'm new to the 7424XP. I was planning on masking off all my trim and my body lines / gaps before going with the ZPC. Is this overkill considering the limited bite of the ZPC + White VC Pad? I feel like I may wimp out and apply the ZPC by hand.
 
I would think the ZPC would remove it in conjunction with the abrasiveness of the pads. (assuming you use something mildly abrasive). I wouldn't worry about ZPC with a PC, just don't go bearing down like you're trying to sand a hole through the panel, especially on the hard edges/body lines.



Are you planning to use ZFX? I can't remember what the cure time between layers without it is off the top of my head. (it sounds like you want to do this all in one day?)
 
I'll be using ZFX...cure time is like 8+ hours without it. I may give it an hour or so anyway just for good measure.



So if I understand you correctly - people who are comfortable with the PC don't really mask things off?
 
300WeatherbyMag said:
I'll be using ZFX...cure time is like 8+ hours without it. I may give it an hour or so anyway just for good measure.



So if I understand you correctly - people who are comfortable with the PC don't really mask things off?
Click to expand...



I don't mask things off with a PC, but I also make a conscientious effort to not work near the edges too long. Also like I said, if you have body lines with sharp angles, don't sit on those long either. In general, anything with a curve on it (such as a fender) will have a somewhat thinner coat of clear/paint/primer on it than a flat surface (such as a hood). Just use some common sense when using your polisher.
 
If it's Jet Black you might be able to get away with your plan.



Any other BMW color will probably require a more aggressive polish first using a PC, without spending significant time on the correction.



Don't put down a freshly loaded pad near a panel gap and you'll be ok. Let the product spread out on a flat panel, then approach the panel gap areas.



BD
 
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