Removing Dust from a Paint Surface

togwt

The Old Grey Whistle Test
These methodologies / products would apply to most forms of dust (Pollen, Sand, Ash, etc) Road dust or just the accumulation of dust from storage needs to be removed safely to avoid imparting scratches to the paint surface.



Dust will settle on your paint, if your vehicle is driven, dust is a fact of life that’s unavoidable. However if your paint is properly cared for, and the correct removal methods are used it will look better than any vehicle that is neglected



One of the first rules of paint care (especially noticeable with dark colours); the less you touch the paint surface; the less you’ll scratch it.

Use an open-ended hose and rinse with capacious amounts of clean water and blot dry surfaces with a waffle weave towel. You may need to follow with a clean micro fibre towel and a detail spray (QD) and gently wipe off any streaks



It important to use these methodologies only for the removal of dry surface dust, don’t use if surface has condensation or dew, or if the vehicle has oily road film, road tar, damp pollen or dust, etc in these instances the vehicle surface should be subjected to a conventional wash or Optimum (OPT) No Rinse Wash™ & Shine New Formula (ONR) car washing process



If you don’t have time for a two-bucket wash, then use a 1:20 Optimum (OPT) No Rinse Wash™ & Shine New Formula (ONR) / distilled water solution in a fine mist spray bottle.



The surfactants it contains encapsulate dry surface dust, pollen or light dirt particles making them virtually non-abrasive and it can be used without causing scratches. Apply with a long nap 100% cotton micro fibre towel using very little surface pressure, dusting with long strokes in one direction only



When I was a Concours entrant / judge most entrants would break out a California Duster as soon as they were allocated a parking spot. I’ve been using them for approx twenty years on all types of vehicles including daily drivers without causing any surface scratches




Methodology -using long strokes, maintain very light surface pressure and use in one direction only, this ensures that any dust is removed not just pushed around. Shake the duster occasionally to ensure any particles picked up will drop out rather than come to the surface while you’re using it. But in all things, including detailing opinions vary; there is no ‘right or wrong way ‘just whatever works for you



Precipitation (that contains dust)



Sahara rain or volcanic cinder cones (that result from eruptions, which resemble cinders) comprise both sand and grit caught up in rain droplets in clouds and then fall to the ground, leaving behind the film of dust when the water evaporated. It is very abrasive and adheres to a paint surface; so use caution with its removal (flood rinse with an open-ended hose and rinse with capacious amounts of clean water and use a product that is formulated with a surfactant (ONR with encapsulating polymers).



Blot dry surfaces with a waffle weave towel. You may need to follow with a clean micro fibre towel and a detail spray (QD) and gently wipe off any streaks




Heavy Dust



To remove heavy dust use Optimum (OPT) No Rinse Wash™ & Shine New Formula (ONR) a quick ‘wash’; formulated with surfactants to keep dirt in suspension, avoiding surface contact, it also provides surface lubrication, thereby avoiding surface marring. Alternatively use Optimum Instant Detailer - this formulation penetrates and encapsulates light dust (including pollen) dirt, and grime, allowing for their removal without scratching or dulling the surface. As soon as is practical, thoroughly rinse the vehicle with a hose and clean water to ensure all the pollen is removed.



Light Surface Dust



To remove light, dry surface dust without causing scratches apply very little surface pressure, use a California Ultimate Premium Car Duster (this duster uses 100% cotton fibres impregnated with paraffin wax to collect dust) this product is like Marmite, you either love or hate it, I've been using them for ten years or more without any paint surface problems (including Concours d’élégance events); having said that it’s all in the method you use.



Or the Zymol® Natural Wool Duster (that uses static to attach the dust to the fibres to assure that dust is lifted and removed, not just pushed around) or long nap micro fibre towel and Optimum (OPT) No Rinse Washâ„¢ (which uses a surfactant to encapsulate the dust and polymers to ensure surface lubrication) to ensure the dust lifted from the paint surface will remain in the nap or fibres and not on the towel surface thereby avoiding surface marring.




Methodology



Using long strokes, maintain very light surface pressure and use in one direction only, this ensures that any dust is removed not just pushed around. Shake the duster occasionally to ensure any particles picked up will drop out rather than come to the surface while you’re using it.



Do not use these methodologies on a wet, damp or hot paint surface (soon after driving) as this will cause streaking?



Anti-Static - Static [the process causes electrons to be pulled from the surface of one material and relocated on the surface of the other material]

Static (friction) electricity is an occasional annoyance in seasons of low humidity, but is usually caused when certain materials are rubbed against each other. Using products that do not contain oils will help by not retaining dust. (this is exacerbated by the use of polyester (nylon) Microfiber) resulting in dust attraction to the paint surface. A 100% cotton micro fibre towel is inherently anti-static; as opposed to the static build-up caused by using a polyester Microfiber towel on a polythene clear coat



For reduced dust attraction use Finish Kare #425 - Ultra Slick Polywipe, they contain polymer for lubricity, anti-corrosive agents, UV inhibitors and patented anti-static agents that gently remove fingerprints, smudges, and other light contaminates and reduced dust attraction.



Use a long nap micro fibre towel or a California Duster to ensure the dust lifted from the paint surface will remain in the nap and not on the towel surface thereby causing surface marring. Shake the towel occasionally to ensure any particles picked up will drop out rather than come to the surface while you’re using it.
 
Jon, nice write up, however, not "real world" for most vehicle owners.

Out here where I live, these sort of "trailer queen" processes are ONLY done to show cars.

Dust everywhere for a day or so, then a day or two of rain, then being in a farming and light industry area, pollen, air pollutants, etc are constantly in the air.

We don't have a water shortage, nor do we have run off regulations to follow in this area.

I perfer the old, tried and true, method for washing my cars, be it one of the beaters or the good ones, soak the "h-ll" out of them with water before I ever put a shampoo and mitt to them.

Liquify/soften the dirt, dust, etc before I start the mitting process.

Just like "washing" anything, be it clothes or dishes, etc, use the universal solvent (water) to do the hard work. That's the importance of soaking first.(if more understood this, they would have less problems removing bug guts)

Now I realize that in the over populated, highly pollutated cities, they don't have as many options, unfortunately.

That said, most cars driven today are lucky to get a "wave wand wash" or a tunnel wash with any regularity. Maybe one Sunday out of the month, a few owners will hand wash their vehicle in the driveway and even vac out the Mickey D's wrappers.

A couple of months ago I started a little "chart" of the neighbors cars and how often they were "washed" and how.

One neighbor does do a nice hand wash of his two vehicles (he worked at a dealership doing new car prep, used car recon 20 years ago) and does his washes very old school. But, that his 2001 Chevy looks good,(he hand waxes it every 3 months) and his new Kia mini van (black) looks great.

I have ladies on either side of my house, both run their cars through the wave wand, maybe once every two weeks, if the car is lucky. (no full service car wash in the area).

Next house down, wave a wand, Caddy CTS and GMC pickup, never saw him out with a bucket, on the other side, down a house, same thing.

Across the street, two cars are lucky to see anything other than rain water most of the time, maybe two washes a year, another is a guy with a car and a pickup, the pickup, he hand washes, the car, it's always dirty, next is a lady with a Kia van, She seems to use the wave a wand every month, next guy and his wife have a pickup and a car, the car sets most of the time in the garage, he washes it once or twice a quarter, his pickup is rained washed only.

Last house is my buddy, no garage, cars set out 12 months a year, with his old Ford van-never washed, a jeep CJ5 that gets washed once a year and his 2008 Charger, which I polished out and sealed up spring of 2009, and it now only gets a once in a while wave a wand or rain. (the sealant is two years old (ValuGard) and still, when it rains, the car is pretty clean.

So, there is a small sample of "real world" people caring for their vehicles finishes.

Most folks are busy working, raising kids, grand kids, mowing their lawns, around here, spending time on the river, etc and not big "keep it clean and shiney" sorts.

Grumpy
 
So few out there in the real world are that if they knew about us and Autopia they'd think we're all a big bunch of loonies!
 
My experience is with classic and high-end cars for Concours d’élégance vehicle preparation, so that’s what I write about.

Is it ‘real world’ I seriously doubt it, if I tried these methodologies on volume dealerships I would last a NY minute.




But then this is neither my niche market nor the readership I write for
 
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