Random Oribtal technical questions, help please....

Dave N

Dave N

My PC goes to 7...
I've been wondering lately if I have cheap paint on my 2001 Toyota Tacoma (truck). After detailing it looks good from a few feet away, but if I look closely down the length of any panel, the paint is kind of "pebbly". It looks kind of like an orange rind. Also, on the top of the cab are what I thougth at first were water spots. They're not though -- it looks like they are some sort of defect under the clear coat. The paint also has a few specs in it (specs are same color as paint) here and there that you can feel. I'm not expecting a luxery car paint job on a truck, but are these types of defects normal for a mid-priced automobile? These trucks are made in California, and I've heard that they have to compromise on paint quality and application technique out there because of environmental laws. Easy scratches/chips are common complaints with the newer Toyota Tundras and Tacomas.



Am I complaining too much, or are these blemishes normal?
 
What color paint?



I have a few "blemishes under my clear coat. I only noticed them after I detailed the truck. Each time I look I feel like I am seeing more of them. The Majority of them ae on the vertical panels though.



I do not think there would be a perfect paint job on large production vehicles. Maybe on the smaller runvehicles that cost more.



Take your complaint to the dealer and see what they say. IF they offer to fix it may turn out worse. Be Careful.
 
First the plant is a joint venture of Toyota and GM.



The paint kitchen is several years old as is the plant, just up-grades as needed. This is a contributing factor to blemishes.



The paint is not "cheap", but the clear,(the part that counts) is the new 1K Plus and is softer, but more etch resistant.



The clear will start to ehibit a harder surface in a few months to a year.



Ketch:up
 
you don't have cheap paint, just expensive eyes! take off your detailing glasses when inspecting your paint ;)



I'd ask, it wouldn't hurt, and then only go to a Ron approved paint shop, if they let you repaint.
 
the first condition is orange peel (like you said looks like an orange's skin) This is common and is always gonna be there to some degree.
 
Dave,



I can tell you that chips are also common on the Avalon. My dad has a 2001 Avalon with less than 6K miles and hood has many chips in it. Not very good for a car that costs over $30K. :(
 
No no no, I have good news for you bub.



That thick paint on the bottom section of your struck is supposed to be there. It is a thicker coat to prevent it from chipping really easy when you go into the woods or whatever. Toyota was thinking when they did that, I think it's an awesome idea.
 
Many trucks do indeed have a pebbly-textured clear spray at the bottom of the lowermost panels designed to protect the paint in that at-risk area from chipping and scratching. It's surely not just Toyota, because my father's 5 year old F150 has it.



I believe what he is describing is orange peel, as he says there is some on top of the cab. I don't see too many chips up there..



The common solution to orange peel is wetsanding and/or polishing, but I'm sure you'll get some input here. You might want to try searching the archives for "orange peel".



puterbum
 
My eyes are crossed, I didn't know it was on top of the cab.



Can't you go back to the dealer for this type of problem, I would think they would re-paint the cab for him or something, jeepers.:confused:
 
In regard to the "orange peel", it's on every surface (not just the rocker panels). The rear rocker panels DO have that pebbly/rubbery coating that joed1228 mentioned. I've even added a 6" strip of clear Trimbrite to the bottom of the rocker panels to help with rock chips. Sadly, since I drive about 90 miles round trip to work every day (on all-terrain tires), the truck is accumulating quite a few rock chips all over.:(



I really doubt that the dealer would spring for a repaint. Probably 99 out of 100 people wouldn't even notice the "orange peeling." Since it's like this all over, I almost wonder if this isn't the norm. It's not something that bugs me a lot -- I can't see it unless I specifically look for it. I was just wondering if this was a common occurrence with other cars...
 
Orange peal can be normal for cars and trucks. Heck go to a new dealership and check them out. I saw a brand new vette with the expensive yellow paint and it had large orange peel.



As for rock chips I bought the Avalanche with the plastic on the bottom. No rock chips or scars yet after month and a half.
 
Todd, or anyone else who might know......Lets take the Flex 3401 and Festool Rotex 150 FEQ. The Flex has a larger orbit stroke length, but the Festool spins at higher MAX RPM's. So, what combination will present better correction ability with these two machines: larger orbit stroke and less RPM's, or smaller orbit stroke and more RPM's?

:)
 
Hey Mark... Someone here at TID just bought a Festool. I'll try to track down his thread and post a link. He might have some insight to your question.:biggrin:
 
Having used both Makita Rotary and the Flex VRG3401, and this is strictly in my experience, I would have to say that the tool that rotates the most and faster, would have most correction ability.
The big dealbreaker for me is that the Flex doesnt support different size pads - only the 6". I still have one though.. :):):)

Dan F
 
Stokdgs said:
Having used both Makita Rotary and the Flex VRG3401, and this is strictly in my experience, I would have to say that the tool that rotates the most and faster, would have most correction ability.
The big dealbreaker for me is that the Flex doesnt support different size pads - only the 6". I still have one though.. :):):)

Dan F
Click to expand...
The Flex has a 5.5" backing plate, so technically, you could use 5.5" pads, but you would have zero cushion on the edge and no margin for error.

Also, can the Flex 3401 correct anywhere near as good as your rotary?
 
I will not be home until tonight, but can do the math then. I would think that the Flex is slightly more powerful then the Festool, and the Makita 2mode offers the most power of all three.
 
th0001 said:
I will not be home until tonight, but can do the math then. I would think that the Flex is slightly more powerful then the Festool, and the Makita 2mode offers the most power of all three.
Click to expand...
I found some info after I posted this thread.

Here is some math you posted for the Flex and Makita on Autopia. Is this what you're talking about?

At a maximum speed of 4800 (10 orbits fixed per 1 revolution at a throw of 7.9375 mm) (7.9375 x 3.14 x 4800) would move a point on the pad about 119,634 mm per minute on the Flex.

At a maximum speed of 5800 (8.66 orbits fixed per 1 revolution at a throw of 5.563 mm) (5.5563 x 3.14 x 5800) would move a point on the pad about 101,191 mm per minute on the Makita.

Using this formula for the Festool I think it would be:

3/16" stroke
4.7625 x 3.14 x 6800 = 101,688.9 mm per minute

So as far as mm per minute in order, it goes:
Flex: 119, 634
Festool: 101,689
Makita: 101,191

MAX RPM of Makita = 670
MAX RPM of Festool = 660
MAX RPM of Flex= 480

Does this info on paper help determine which is more powerful between the Flex and Festool?

How important is mm per minute compared to RPM's for correcting ability?

Thanks! :)
 
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