Questions on painless dent repair

I

imported_RedlineIRL

New member
One of my cars and some of my familys cars happened to have got attacked by hail the other day:angry and now I am in the process of trying to get them fixed. It looks like PDR is the way to go.



I happened to look at some of the cars on of the dealer new car lots a day later just to see how some of them faired and they got it to. I talked to one of the guys at the dealer and he said that they were going to have a PDR come and fix them. So anyways I stopped back in a few days later and some of the cars that were dinged up now look like they were not even dinged to begin with at all. On some I have seen what looks to be like some sort of glue residue left over on a few of them. From what I have been told by some PDRs they will use a glue on areas where the tools cannot get in to press the dings out. It seems that the PDR that worked on the dealers cars used a glue only on them becuase I don't see them dropping headliners and hoodliners on brand new cars if it is not needed.



Anyways I have a few questions since I am unfamiliar with the PDRs and maybe those that have had it done can help. Have any of you all had problems with the finish craking later on where PDR was done or the metal eventually returning to the dinged state? Will the glue they use cause any harm to the finish? Have you all come across any problems at all one PDR was done?
 
Well, I don't have direct experience with whether the paint will crack after PDR - but this is because the PDR guy the dealer sent me to advised against having the repair done. The ding in question is one that is right on the folded edge of the quarter panel just as it turns under into the wheel well. PDR guy said 50/50 paint would crack. Better news for you though, if damage is not in such a place, PDR guy says paint cracking highly unlikely on repairs made on flat or gently curving surfaces as long as ding does not have severe crease. Hope this helps.



Jim
 
I've had a few dents and dings done by a PDR tech. Five out of six were flawless - including a rear quarter panel that looked as if someone kicked it hard :cry: - never had any probs w/ the paint afterwards. The sixth was on the middle of a rounded panel and while he wasn't able to completely remove it (and didn't charge for it) it did look a lot better.



BTW the guy used rods to massage the dents from the inside of the panels on my cars, so there wasn't any adhesive applied.
 
A good PDR will finesse the dent out. You won;t have to worry about cracking.



That dry ice method snaps the dings out. It is more likely to crack.
 
My good friend is PDR guy for about 10 yrs and he works all the new car dealerships in the Princeton NJ area and they insist that the work they pay for is perfect and it is. He has a glue gun that he uses on the roof sometimes and you will see clue strings all over the place afterwards.
 
pdsterns said:
He has a glue gun that he uses on the roof sometimes and you will see clue strings all over the place afterwards.
Click to expand...

Does the glue come off easily or leave anything behind? The idea of putting hot glue on a car doesn't like something that should be done but apparently it works. I am just worried that the glue could grab too much and harm or take up the finish when pulling the dent back up.



On some of the cars the dings are above support pieces on the hood and trunk, so I have been told by the ones that I have talked to that they will need to use glue on these. On my brothers car that has them on the roof the place he went said that they can get them out with the glue.



How is the stuff applied just like a regular hot glue gun? Do they just put glue on the ding and use a tool to pull up to remove it?
 
RedlineIRL said:
Does the glue come off easily or leave anything behind? The idea of putting hot glue on a car doesn't like something that should be done but apparently it works. I am just worried that the glue could grab too much and harm or take up the finish when pulling the dent back up.



On some of the cars the dings are above support pieces on the hood and trunk, so I have been told by the ones that I have talked to that they will need to use glue on these. On my brothers car that has them on the roof the place he went said that they can get them out with the glue.



How is the stuff applied just like a regular hot glue gun? Do they just put glue on the ding and use a tool to pull up to remove it?
Click to expand...



Glue and maybe it is not exactly regular hot glue comes right off, the strings of glue seem to be in the air. He puts the gun against the panel and glues it to panel then pulls the trigger and it snaps off of the paint and pulls at same time. I have seen him use it the most on the roof when he does not want to drop head liner. He is very very good at removing interior panels and trim because he does it everyday, definitely a flat rate-er. He works behind dent very slowly with pointed tool with duct tape on tip. He is very aware of car type and panel thickness, German cars are easiest with thicker panels, Japanese are thinner and he is much more carefull. I saw him work a Lexus door small dent and it was very labor intensive but he got it completely out.
 
Luckily I was able to find a place that strictly deals with PDRs not too far away. I am going to check what it is going to run soon and get it done. What is a reasonable price per ding to be PDRed? The is one is fairly small and the other is unable to be seen unless you are under flurosecents and looking at the right angle. I don't see it being more than $150 but what do you all think?
 
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