Question about Dodge Charger

J

JonB

New member
After doing some work on my car with Pinnacle Paintwork Cleansing lotion, Klasse AIO and SG, I think I am ready for some power machine help! I have seen references to the PC 7424 here and would like to know if this can damage (burn) paint like regular rotary buffers. Since I am not a pro, I am looking for something to help with the application and removal of products.



Is there is a FAQ page for this product?



What products are recommended for use and any specific ones that are not recommended for use with the PC?



Which pads are recommended for application and removal?



How easy is it to master the machine?



Best place to order from...price??



Thanks

H
 
The PC is very easy to master and will not harm your paint/clearcoat.



I've owned one for a year now and have used it on my 2001 BLACK Jetta with excellent results. It's perfect for applying Klasse AIO or other polishes. I use a CMA soft white pad for that.



For heavier duty removal of microscratches and slight oxidation, I use Griot's Garage Machine Polishes #2 and 3. These were formulated to work with the PC.



I don't like the way it works with Finesse It...



otherwise, a real time-saver and worth the $100.



Paul
 
Neighbor asked me if I could do him a favor and help him take out some light scratches and swirls from the hood of his car. Apparently he's been using a wash brush at home, on his car. I've got 105/205, CCS pads and also both colors of the hydro pads. TIA for your help, amigos. :thumbup:
 
By seeing what you have there, it looks like you got the right items in removing those nasty swirls and how deep are the scratches?
 
Good morning, Angelo. :) The scratches are not very deep and neither are the swirls. I just don't want to get too aggressive and make the problem worse. How have you found the paint on the new Dodge cars to be?
 
I will be doing a new magnum with M105/M205 and both of the new hydrotech pads as well. Let me know how it goes, paints should be about the same.
 
The basic steps of detailing apply here, as they would with any car in any condition.

Start with a mild combo, like M205 and a light polishing pad, experiment with speed, time, and pressure, and adjust from there.

If you don't want to get aggressive, don't get aggressive. Stick with a mild combo for starters and judge results as you go along.

There is no formula for doing this, no guarantees. Detailing is far more art than science. The sooner you plug in the PC and start polishing, the sooner you will know what combo works and doesn't work.
 
please keep in mind that i'm no expert but i would start with a white pad and m105. i'd vary the pressure and speed with that combo until i could remove the swirls. if i couldn't remove them with that 'd move up to a orange pad. i found m105 to finish well enough to know if you've removed the swirls and scratches. then you can polish it down... just my measely .02
 
Thanks for the input everyone. I just got back from my friends house and all I have to say is that Dodge hoods and panels are a PITA!!! Initially, I thought it was going to be a piece of cake. Wrong!! After claying the car I decided to do an IPA wipe. What I saw almost made me faint. The whole car was in terrible shape. It was completely ridden with swirls and RIDS. I tried a whole lot of different combos before settling on a white/105, then 205/white pad, via Flex DA. That knocked them almost all out. There were still some random RIDS which I think I could have taken out with maybe a green LCC CCS green pad/205, but that will have to wait for another day. After polishing all of the car I applied two coats of Optimum Car wax. He was over the moon with the car. Told him that if he saw something he didn't like, to let me know and I would take care of it.

Sorry there are no pics. Because I spent most of the day trying to find a good combo, I completely forgot about taking pics.

Luke, how did your car turn out? What process did you use?
 
RustyBumper said:
Luke, how did your car turn out? What process did you use?
Click to expand...

Waiting for a warm[er] day :smile:

It will be the following Polisher, Pads, Compounds/Polishes, LSPs, and Dressings respectively
PC7424XP
LC Hydro-Tech Cyan pads
LC Hydro-Tech Tangerine pads
LC CCS Gray finishing polish pads
Meguiars M105
Meguiars Ultimate Compound
Meguiars M205
Klasse AIO
Collinite 476S Doublewax
Collinite 845 Insulator Wax
D170 Hyperdressing 1:1 [Clean finish]
D170 Hyperdressing 4:1 [Glossy finish]
Stoners Glass Trio
 
Not trying to hijack the thread, but I'm going to do the same polishing on my "02 VW Passat. I"ll be using M105/M205 as needed. What I need to know is how do I know when to stop polishing a certain area? I've heard the term "until the polish "flashes" but I'm not sure exactly what that means. Until the polish looks almost dry?
Thanks for any input, guys
 
newpassatt said:
Not trying to hijack the thread, but I'm going to do the same polishing on my "02 VW Passat. I"ll be using M105/M205 as needed. What I need to know is how do I know when to stop polishing a certain area? I've heard the term "until the polish "flashes" but I'm not sure exactly what that means. Until the polish looks almost dry?
Thanks for any input, guys
Click to expand...

I would wait for one of the experts to answer your question. From my experience and answers from detailer's this is what I know.

- M105 is not a diminishing abrasive.
It will cut until you stop working it.
Work it, but do not let it dry.
Don't spread it around as that would shorten the working life of it, just use the Kevin Brown Method to prime the pad and start out with heavy pressure
Because it is not diminishing, I make a few passes with heavy pressure before reducing pressure to create a better finish.
When you remove it, spray Megs final touch, or a QD on it to remove the powder and residue.
Even after it is done being worked on, you can still scratch the paint when you remove it because it still has abrasives in it.

- M205 is also not a diminishing polish
Work with moderate to heavy pressure until it turns transparent
M205 has oils in it, and it will not power much at all [not related entirely]
After you work it, remove it with a MF
Follow that up, by spraying your working area with IPA 50/50 to remove the oils M205 leaves behind. This will allow you to spot areas that need more attention.

Again, I hope a detailer will chime in, but that is what I have been told and what has worked thusfar.
 
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