Pro's need only apply!

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This thread is for bragging rights,



This thread is to post your best tips and tricks. The pro's out there know what I'm talking about. Let's see who is the ultimate detailer.



Whether it's the way you clean your windows, or the the way you apply different types of wax to get "THAT SHINE". Let's see what you got!



If your best tip or trick is "Don't wax your car in direct sun" your in the wrong room today....LOL



I'm really looking forward to hearing from a few of you out there (You know who you are)







Clint
 
Simply treat every car as if it were your own and always try to top your previous detail.



I do a lot of mixing and matching across product lines looking for the ultimate combo for each color for one. One thing I notice most detailers miss is rolling down the windows slightly to get the build up that is on the part of the windows that fits into the door frame.
 
Great post, Thats what I'm talking about.



I'll give a quick tip aswell,



To get a great shine, use a QD between coats of wax. Put on your first coat of wax (you should let it cure for 12 hours so it's really on there) next use a good Detail Spray and it will really shine, and wax that shine in



Clint
 
1) after washing and you are planning on claying, do not dry the car: wash, rinse, clay, rinse clay residue, dry



2) use a carribenner(sp?) clip attached to your belt loop, clip the PC/rotory cord through the loop so the cord stay closer to the body and off the paint



3) less is usually more



4)proper technique is 80%, product is only 20%
 
Quick Tip/Trick:



If you have really bad waterspots on the windows, try using some white viniger and a 4x6 cotton wax pad. Use a circular motion until the calcium starts to break up then rinse with some distilled water from a spray bottle. It may smell a bit , but you will be happy with the results.
 
If your really strapped for a trim dressing, or forgot it, (ive done it many times) whatever your using on your tires usually works fairly well on your mudflaps, lower skirts, etc...
 
What I have found out over the years is what works on one car, may not work on another. I have 3 different all purpose cleaners, 3 tire shines, 7 different waxes and any tool that comes along to make a detailers job better. Steamer, 400psi extractor great vacs, and the one thing that you can't be taught PASSION. If you don't have better products and if you can't do a better job than the customer can do himself look for another profession.
 
Check clients fluids, and fill as needed. Washer fluid, brake, etc. I wouldnt recommend adding any oil, unless you know what weight and brand they use. Take the 3rd brakelight apart, to remove bugs and debris. Make friends with GOOD mobile techs, like PDR, bumper and interior people. Customers will always have things needed that you may or may not be able to repair. DO NOT leave a clients radio turned up or playing the music that YOU like. If you notice a loose clip, bolt, panel, etc. and you can fix it, and fix it RIGHT, take care of it for them. Be sure you tell them so. You can use 2000 grit sandpaper, to remove scuffs from sill plates, using plenty of lube and slight pressure.
 
If you are going to apply a sealant, after using a polishing compound don't bother wiping it off and then washing the car, just wash the car, the residue will wash off easily. (I use Dawn, pre Zaino)
 
When using a rotary or any buffer, have 3 of the same pad. One of them I use, one of them is soaking in the bucket to clean it, and the other is in the sun drying.



When I switch I put the dirty pad in the bucket of soapy water and then rinse out the pad that was in there. I then spin the pad on my buffer to get a lot of the water out of it. If I'm going through the pads faster than they are drying, then before I put the pad in the sun I'll use some of my towels to press even more water out of the now clean pad. Grab the one that was in the sun and go back to work.



Clean pads always work better than dirty and now you'll always have a clean one ready.
 
Great tips, I like the claying while the car is still wet tip!



Here is another quick tip.



If you are on a job(If your mobile) or if just want to clean your mits or your chamois(If you do alot of cars you how bad a dirty chamois sucks) open the door of the vehicle and shut in just the corner of the mit or chamois and let the rest hang out agaist the side window, and blast it with your pressure washer. You will see the dirt poor out. Ofcourse make sure you do this while the car is still dirty.....LOL



Clint
 
To remove that gunk at the top of windows: use a windows cleaner and the flat edge of a razor blade. Use plent of spray and make sure the blade is flat against the glass.
 
To keep wheels and tires clean while buffing.... take 4 large (33 gallon size) trash bags, make a slit up one side and drape them over the wheels.



Drape the wheel and tire assemblies when using detailing sprays in the wheel wells.



Take a few minutes and tape off any mouldings and rubber trim you do not want stained any cleaners, waxes and sealants.



Use a bug sponge with a solvent in a sprayer to remove any road tar.
 
If you are anal about cleaning your wheels, here's a "hands-on" tip for cleaning wheels with wide openings. Normally, those tire and wheel brushes can't reach around to the backside of the wheel where brake dust and road grime accumulates. Clean as much as you can with the brush. Then dip your hands in soapy wash water and run your fingers around the back side of the wheel, rubbing away the caked on grit and grime. May get your hands filthy, but your wheels will be clean where the sun doesn't shine :D
 
Here are a few little tricks of mine...



When detailing engines, spray all the exposed electrical connectors with WD40. It repells water and reduces the chances of something bad happening.



[This one may be obvious...but maybe not] Apply tire dressing while your wax or sealant is hazing. If you get any overspray on the paint, it will be on top of the wax or sealant and will wipe right off when you buff. I always do this trick since I use a foam tire dressing. That and I could swear it is always windy where I live. :rolleyes:



As mentioned above by Gonzo0903, mask off the moldings to keep off unwanted dressing. But in addition to that, mask off any rubber seals (around windows, etc.) if using a machine to prevent melting them if you get too close.
 
LouisanaJeeper said:


2) use a carribenner(sp?) clip attached to your belt loop, clip the PC/rotory cord through the loop so the cord stay closer to the body and off the paint
Click to expand...



You can also throw the cord over your shoulder...keeps it off the paint and leaves you able to move around a little more freely.
 
use a window cleaner to get a window clean then give it a shot of quick shine gives the windows a glossy finish to match then now shiny paint and its anti fog and anti static
 
My tip for windows:



When cleaning windows it does not matter what product you are using, don't use a towel or even a MF. Use a black & white printed newspaper. It will leave the windows lint free and spotless. If you don't have a newspaper to clean the windows then a Coffee filter will work just the same.
 
NY detailer said:
My tip for windows:



When cleaning windows it does not matter what product you are using, don't use a towel or even a MF. Use a black & white printed newspaper. It will leave the windows lint free and spotless. If you don't have a newspaper to clean the windows then a Coffee filter will work just the same.
Click to expand...



Could you elaborate a little more on your window cleaning technique? Do you crumple it into a ball and go from there, or just fold a section up or what? Also, do you use any product at all, or just wipe with the bare newspaper. Thanks a lot!
 
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