Presidential Detailed: 2002 Honda S2000

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PresdntialDtail

New member
This car provided a very good learning experience for me, the owner said it was in rough shape, and it was. I looked it over, noticed there was lots of swirling and the finish was kind of hazy. It had been sitting under a cover for nearly a year with no use. I figured it would be the run of the mill swirl removal on soft Honda paint as usual...WRONG!! Turns out the ENTIRE front half of the car from the doors forward were repainted with superman strength clearcoat. I tried everything I have including M105 on a Burgandy Solo Wool multiple passes with NO LUCK! I couldnt believe it. I was ready to give up and came to the conclusion the swirls were UNDER the new clear/paint. Well I was wrong again..



I posted up this thread, http://www.autopia.org/forum/car-detailing/112746-2-passes-m105-wool-no-luck.html , looking for advice. No one knew what to tell me except for "iamwaxman" aka Kevin. He informed me of a new method on how to use the M105 and get two to three times more cut!



iamwaxman said:
Since you've already got the M105 and the wool pad (plus plenty of others)...



Go ahead and try this:



1. Prime the pad THOROUGHLY.

Rub it in with your hand. It'll take a bit more than you're used to applying.



2. Apply a bead of M105 to the surface, pull it in, and polish at low speed (1000 rpm).

Try 2-3 passes, or until the M105 is just starting to dry.



3. Using a fine mist, spray the surface with water.

Do not add additional product- Just re-polish with what's already in the pad.



I think you'll see a 50% improvement in the cut, but you'll probably see an increase in swirling (it can be easily removed).



After trying this method (count it as one cycle), spur the wool pad (blow it clean with compressed air if you have it).



I won't PROMISE a better result, but I am pretty sure you're going to GET a better result.
Click to expand...



And I went into the garage and followed the directions precisely. FIRST TRY ALL SWIRLS ARE REMOVED!!! I couldnt believe my eyes! Not to mention the fantastic gloss it leaves once finished down!



Well anyways, on to the pictures!



Exterior:

Dawn Soap Pre-Wash

Optimum Car Wash-Final Wash

DD "Uber" Red Drying Towel

DD "Uber" Wool Mitt

Dual Buckets with Grit Guards

3m "green" Masking Tape

Adams Professional Clay Bar

P21S TAW

Meguairs APC+

Meguairs Hyperdressing

Megs M105/Megs Solo Burgandy Wool(new method) x2

Menzerna PO85rd/LC FLAT Black 5.5"

Menzerna Top Inspection

Tons of Uber MF Towels

Black WOW

Griots Garage Wheel Cleaner Gel

Swissvax Pneu





LSP:

Lusso Oro applied with Uber Foam Applicator



Tools:

Dual Work Lamps

Dewalt Hi Speed Rotary

World's Greatest Boar's Hair Wheel Brush

Foam Pad Cleaning Brush

DD Detail Sponge

The Wheel Well/Fender Brush

The Spoke Brush

Canon Rebel XTi

Craftsmen 295MPH Vac/Blow

E-Z Detail Wheel Brush

Swissvax Wheel Brush



BEFORE:

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The headlights were in rough shape, well take care of those later.

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The owner spilled about a quart of oil on accident while performing an oil change, now my duty to clean it up! haha!

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IN THE HALOGENS..

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50/50 after SIP/orange SIP/yellow wool, M105, yellow wool M105/burgandy wool with 2 passes! It just wasnt removing the big ones..

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Before..

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After..M105/Burgandy x2

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NOW after "iamwaxman"s advice..



iamwaxman said:
Since you've already got the M105 and the wool pad (plus plenty of others)...



Go ahead and try this:



1. Prime the pad THOROUGHLY.

Rub it in with your hand. It'll take a bit more than you're used to applying.



2. Apply a bead of M105 to the surface, pull it in, and polish at low speed (1000 rpm).

Try 2-3 passes, or until the M105 is just starting to dry.



3. Using a fine mist, spray the surface with water.

Do not add additional product- Just re-polish with what's already in the pad.



I think you'll see a 50% improvement in the cut, but you'll probably see an increase in swirling (it can be easily removed).



After trying this method (count it as one cycle), spur the wool pad (blow it clean with compressed air if you have it).



I won't PROMISE a better result, but I am pretty sure you're going to GET a better result.
Click to expand...



BEFORE:

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AFTER 1 PASS:

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BEFORE:

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AFTER 1 PASS:

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I ended up doing the whole car with this method twice on each panel to ensure every scratch was removed..

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Pulled it out in the sun..

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Headlight Before:

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50/50 with M105 on a "3 finger" green pad:

This was a night and day difference, the camera didnt seem to capture it as well.

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Unfortunately, it was almost 12am when I finished and I was trying to get it done so the customer could leave, so I was not able to get as many after shots as Id like. The owner was amazed how the car looked when he came over, it was literrally glowing even at night!



Here are a couple afters I managed to get, the owner said he would take some more for me when he gets a chance...

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Please forgive me for the lint, its time to invest into new MF's.

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Good job Billy, and thanks for sharing your info. I worked on a car with PFW/105 a few days after Kevin's advice, and too found it was finishing much nicer by slowing down to 1000rpm.
 
Looks great!



I'm surprised you were able to go from M105 straight to 85rd...



I have also found that M105 works best at slower rpm's. I usually gather M105 with my pad and spread it quickly until there is no polish visible on the panel. Then, I work a small area with the amount of product in the pad for multiple passes. I have polished for well over a minute with M105, unlike others that state it has a short working time. It almost seems as if you are dry-buffing, but if you look closely, you will see a *very thin film present on the panel, which means you are working the product and not dry-buffing. When the product flashes off, it will begin to dust. Either stop, or add a light spritz of distilled water for extended working time...



Again, great job!!!
 
Looks awesome the way it came out Billy:bow, great advice from Kevin also. I will keep in mind about this detail!
 
Nice work on this. Followed your thread with the 105 problems. Just wanted to thank you for having the problems (haha) and for Kevin's answer on how to fix them.



I tried this method with 105 yesterday and wow. The dusting was gone and so was the paint damage. Marring was up but so what, it came out easily.
 
jefftheman said:
Nice work on this. Followed your thread with the 105 problems. Just wanted to thank you for having the problems (haha) and for Kevin's answer on how to fix them.



I tried this method with 105 yesterday and wow. The dusting was gone and so was the paint damage. Marring was up but so what, it came out easily.
Click to expand...



Haha! No problem! Its a great technique! Thanks to Kevin for sharing it! If the clear is hard enough, it will leave an almost LSP ready surface, but on softer clears it will def. mar some, which like you said i no big deal it comes out with one more pass on a foam pad.
 
Nice job with that M105 technique, very well done.



Interested in how you did the headlights and what a 3 finger pad is.



Would IP or SIP with an orange or white pad work on headlights as well?
 
I got the "3 finger" pad as a freebie from autogeek once, not sure who makes them ut they are green/teal in color and its just a little pocket for your fingers to go into. I applied a little M105 to it and rubbed on the headlight for a couple minutes and they came out perfect with no machine needed.
 
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