Possible body solvent alternative?

Neo62381

New member
Last week, after washing my car, I found some tar and a few bugs on the lower panels of my car, you know, the really grungy areas like the rocker panels. I went down to the basement to get a can of Tarminator, sprayed it on, let it dwell for a minute, then wiped it clean with a fresh MF. I thought to myself, "D@^^n this is working awfully well". I looked at the can, and behold I had confused the Tarminator with Invisible Glass. At first, I was scared, thinking that a week later my paint would look dull, ect ect. But I really haven't seen any deterimental effects. DON'T get me wrong though, I'd NEVER use it on my nice contaminant free car again!



At the risk of sounding completeley crazy, here goes - I slept on it, and thought about the many possibilities of using windex or another cheap glass cleaner as a body solvent, on really contaminated vehicles, before claying, and polishing. I had a vehicle coming up, that was extremely dirty, from head to toe, the rocker panels, lower fender, and front bumber had seen NO love whatsoever, and was FULL of bonded contaminants. I done a dawn wash, which helped a LOT. Afterward, I proceeded to dig out the windex and use it to pretreat some of the lower panels, in effect to help save my clay. I sprayed some on my microfiber towel, pressed it up againt the area to be cleaned, let it sit for a minute and gently wiped away. It really made a WORLD of difference. I done the same to the rest of the lower panels on the car, and when It came time to bring out the clay, I discovered, that the windex residue left on the lower panels, was reacting with the clay, and in effect, disinigrating it. No problem, I just rinsed it off, then went at it again. Worked perfect, my clay didn't really pick up anywhere NEAR as much contaminants as it normally would have down there. All in all, while I was claying the lower portions of the car, I felt a LOT safer, knowing that less contaminants would scratch the car.



I taped off the trim, pulled out my trusty PC, all my polishes, and went to town, as normal. At the end of the day, everything turned out very nice. NO, damage was done whatsoever that I could tell.



What my question is, What am I missing, is there something that I'm not thinking about? Is there something else that could do a better job? Please keep in mind that I'm FULLY aware, that windex was NOT meant for paint, and if I was not planning on polishing the paint, I would have never done this step!



ANYONE feel free to chime in, I would like to get as many opinions as I can about this, as I get hold of a LOT of really neglected cars. TIA :waxing:
 
Neo62381 said:
46 views and no replys.....:-(



Ok -- One reply. :D



There have been a ton of posts that mention using products that are mostly iso-alcohol to remove tree sap. RainX was one product specifically mentioned, as well as the rubbing alcohol that you can buy anywhere. I'll just bet that Invisible Glass has a high alcohol content. If you use alcohol as a cleaner you need to be careful. I've read warnings about mythyl damaging paint.



Just checked the directions on RainX Glass Treatment Wipes -- " ...Do not use on or allow product to contact painted surfaces....."



I think as we try to come up with ways to remove surface crud we had better be darn careful of the product we are using.



Tom :cool:
 
Dunno how different the IG and Windex are, but besides the alcohol content, isn't there ammonia in Windex?



This sounds not all *that* different from stuff like the "A" part of AutoInt's ABC decontamination system...a stronly alkaline cleaning agent, only with a window cleaner you generally have alcohol mixed in. I'd rather use the "A" myself, it has sudsing/etc. and is made to be OK on automotive surfaces. I'd sure hate to get Windex/etc. on something that's sensitive to it and then have to explain the damage from that to a customer (sure wouldn't sound too professional, huh?).



A gallon on AutoInt's "A" and another one of their New Car Prep solvent (which I used to remove a bunch of tar from the A8 yesterday) would last a long time and probably wouldn't be too expensive compared to stuff that comes in small containers. And those products are made/tested to be OK on automotive surfaces.
 
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