Porter Cable vs. Cyclo -

jsoto

New member
I'm contemplating between the PC vs. Cyclo.

Leaning on the Cyclo since I like the smaller pads....and I got I chance to work with it once this summer , has a good balance!



Just curious for those that may have made the PC-Cyclo Switch themselves...
 
You're going to want to get as much info as possible on this before you make your own decision, but here is my take on this.



I own both machines. I started off with the PC which I, personally, feel is irreplaceable and I recently purchased a Cyclo which I could take or leave. So far, my feeling toward the Cyclo is mostly based on one single use of the machine so far which turned out to be a total pain in the butt and which sent me running back to the PC. Now, the reason I think my experience was a bad one is because the cyclo brand pads that my machine came with didn't seem to be up par with the task (compounding) for which I was subjecting them to, and I didn't try to use the Cyclo for anything else. From what I am hearing the Cyclo is a great machine for polishing and finishing work, but is lacking in the compounding dept. because you can't slow it down and it dries the product too fast thus caking the pads too quickly.



I don't look at the Cyclo as my *go-to* machine, but it is definitely an optional tool that I like having around. I am told that once I get the hang of it, it produces the same results as the PC just faster which is exactly what I'm looking for since I am mostly detailing pickups and suv's.



Again, this is just my opinion and it comes from a person who has only used the Cyclo once. I'm sure I will like it more as I use it, but so far I'm sticking with my PC for 80% of my work.
 
I have the opposite effect from the machine from Jdookies experience. *I* personally only use the pc for tight spots.

I think for somebody that isnt doing this for money or where time restraints occur the PC is a great inexpensive way to start.

Also it can be a great learning tool for a beginner to boost their confidence using a machine on their car.

It sounds like you have that under control though from using it this past summer.



My opinion is get the PC and play with it for a while. It is NOT a bad machine to use it just takes longer to get the same results as a cyclo.



my $.02
 
Are there other sanders that are similar in design to the PC but are more powerful and closer to the Cyclo in results?
 
The Cyclo is now my go to machine because I have hard paint but the PC shines through in hard-to-get-at areas especially with a 4" pad.



If I had softer paint I probably wouldn't see the rationale behind getting a Cyclo but it does seem to make the job of polishing minor defects go by a little quicker.



The Cyclo also sure seems like an indestructible machine. I believe when I read it can take 20 years of abuse and not really need servicing yet.





I am happy I have mine. No buyer's remorse at all :up
 
The Dewalt DW443 is the machine that I'll use between the PC and Cyclo. It has much more power than the PC and it has variable speed control, in which the Cyclo doesn't. I've been using random orbitals and rotarys for over two years and I still can't get the hang of the Cyclo. I pretty much agree with everything JDookies said about the Cyclo, but I've used both Cyclo pads and LC pads. I'll figure it out as soon as I practice more. So far, I've only done four cars using the Cyclo. Can't wait to try it on boats and RV's.
 
I'm another guy who prefers the Cyclo. After using one for years I finally got a PC just to see what all the fuss is about and I still don't understand why people like them better. While the PC *does* get into tight spots better and the variable speed can be handy (especially with AIO and #80, which just don't seem to work as well by Cyclo), I use the Cyclo whenever possible, for everything from polishing to LSP application and removal. I like it *that* much better. And it can do correction on Audi clear that the PC can't (no matter how long you spend trying, even with wool pads).



The Cyclo is perfectly safe for a beginner, IMO. And it can be good training for future rotary use (when moving it, just pretend it's a rotary and you'll soon get the hang of not pausing at the end of a stroke, for instance).



But it's not like JDookie or Mark Waldron are *wrong* or anything. As I seem to post on most threads, it's gonna be a personal preference issue. I know some people who just *hate* the Cyclo, and they borrow my PC all the time (heh heh, if they like it so much why don't they get their own :D).



I must say that I just don't like the PC. I don't like it's ergonomics, the way it feels when I use it, the way it bogs down, they way I have to get PCs rebuilt, or, well, much of anything about the thing. But if you *do* like a PC, then maybe a stronger but similar machine like the DW443 would be a good idea. And if you have very soft paint and/or use AIO and/or #80 all the time then maybe the PC would be the better choice.



Oh, and it was my Cyclo that was still going strong after 20 years, some of those in an industrial setting where my employees *really* abused it. When I sent it in for a going-over last autumn they said it could've kept going without any servicing for long, long time...
 
I now have a Cyclo, a PC, anda Makita Rotory, I use them all for different purposes. The PC is the odd man out however, try to bog down a Cyclo, you cannot ! The PC is easy to use in tight places, but the Cyclo is a speed demon, and its almost like a part of my arm to use. The PC also kicks *** !
 
Can you "burn" paint w/ a Cyclo? I've heard all sorts of horror stories that if you don't know what you're doing w/ a rotary tool you can real screw things up that my require a "professional" to straighten out. Where as w/ the PC it's close to impossible to do that sort of thing and therefore it's very safe for beginers. :confused:



How hard is it to learn the Cyclo vs the PC? Could someone post a picture of the Cyclo and the Makita or DeWalt so that us noobs could get a feel for what's being discussed here?
 
REX-RACER,

I don't have a picture of a Cyclo but here is a link to one.

Click here

I don't think that you can burn paint with a Cyclo unless you were trying. You would have to push down pretty hard and hold it in one spot for a while.

I don't have a PC so I can't tell you how hard it is to use compared to a PC. I learned to use mine by reading all of the threads that I could find and PM'ing Accumulator. Then using it. It just isn't that hard to use it. The only problem that I am having with it is I find that some polishes dry pretty quickly. I think thatâ€â„¢s more operator error then a problem with the machine. I am still experimenting with how much polish to use. Considering that I have never seen one used and only read about it, then picked one up and started using it I think that I am getting great results. If you have ever polished a car by hand I think you will like how much easier, faster and better a machine will do the job, whether its a Cyclo or a PC.

mochamanz, you are right. I have tried to bog down my Cyclo and had to stop pushing because I thought that I might dent the hood of my car. The Cyclo didn't slow down at all.
 
REX-RACER said:
Can you "burn" paint w/ a Cyclo?



Not usless you're using the new (and very aggressive) pasd they're currently developing. But those aren't generally available yet and are quite different from the "normal" pads. With the regular pads that everybody sells, no you cannot burn paint.



You *can* take off quite a bit, but it won't heat up enough to "burn". I've tried it, more than once ;)



How hard is it to learn the Cyclo vs the PC?



It's very easy. The learning curve won't be any problem, don't worry about it. Just that simple, IMO (the 15 year old and the guy in his 70s both thought it was easy the first time they used it).



Some products do dry out (too) fast by Cyclo. These include Meg's #80 (not too bad) and AIO (pretty bad). I've never done KSG by Cyclo. But all my 3M and 1Z polishes work great with it, and I'd previously used Hi-Temp and Malm's polishes with great results. Even Griot's Machine Polishes work well by Cyclo (a lot better than they do with a PC and Griot's pads ;) ). Great for applying paste waxes too. And I use it with MF bonnets to remove such products.
 
The decision on purchasing either a PC or Cyclo comes down to what the machine will be used for. If you are a strict hobbist who keeps their cars in good shape then you have a decision to make. If you plan on taking on some side jobs in addition to your own cars I would say to buy the PC and a rotary for the same price as a Cyclo by itself. You can buy a PC and a Makita, DeWalt, or Porter Cable rotary for the same price as a Cyclo alone. Go through the motions with the PC and learn some techniques then make the jump over to the rotary on a beater or some pannels from a shop/junk yard. The difference between the rotary and orbital is night and day, especially when detailing for profit.
 
The Cyclo would be my first choice if the pads were better. I really like how it works on paint that is in bad shape but I'm not real impressed with the pads. Hopefully there are some better ones to be released soon. Once they are, I'm getting a Cyclo to compliment the PC.
 
Scott,



I find the LC pads for the Cyclo to be good, at minimum, a lot better than the OE Cyclo ones. If you haven't tried those, definitely do so. I'm also waiting for offerings from Sonus and I high encourage other pad brands to produce Cyclo size pads as well
 
Bill, thanks for the information. I really like the Cyclo, I just think the pads I ordered weren't that great. Nice to know there are some quality pads.
 
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