I used the porter cable 7336 for the first time today and must say I am very impressed with ease of application but I cant getall the swirls and cob webs out. I am using menzerna IP then FPII then FTG and finishing with FMJ. I washed cla yed and polished the entire car today and it looks amazing but there are still minor swirls and many other small paint problems I thought would be removed( water spots minor scratches). I used orange pad with IP and white with FP. is this normal. do i just need to get the hang of it. I varied from 31/2 to 6 on the speed. It got alot out and the piant looks realy good and feels like silk but I am planning to start a detailing business and dont think I am getting the best results. I wouldnt be satisfied if I gave the customers their cars back still having minor swirls. thanks for the help. I will post pictures of what the car looks like now later today.
porter cable help
- Thread starter a4ertan
- Start date
The PC as good as it is, isn't a replacement for a rotary. What makes it so good is also it's limitation.
A PC DA can get out some minor swirls but depending on how bad they are, a rotary might be required.
Sounds as though you might need to kick it up a notch in order to get the results you are looking for.
In most cases, it might be best not to get out 100% of all of the swirls, especially if they are quite deep. The amount of polishing you may have to do, in order to solve less than 2% of the swirls on your car may be more risk then it's worth (burn through, thinning the clear etc). The same goes for customers cars as well.
That's were experience comes in and knowing when is a good time to stop and call it a day and be happy with the improvement.
Paco
A PC DA can get out some minor swirls but depending on how bad they are, a rotary might be required.
Sounds as though you might need to kick it up a notch in order to get the results you are looking for.
In most cases, it might be best not to get out 100% of all of the swirls, especially if they are quite deep. The amount of polishing you may have to do, in order to solve less than 2% of the swirls on your car may be more risk then it's worth (burn through, thinning the clear etc). The same goes for customers cars as well.
That's were experience comes in and knowing when is a good time to stop and call it a day and be happy with the improvement.
Paco
togwt
The Old Grey Whistle Test
Information source:
Quote:
~One manâ€â„¢s opinion / observations~
Machine Polish / Foam Pad Combinations:
Always start with the least abrasive combination, if that combination of foam pad and polish doesnâ€â„¢t remove the surface imperfections, proceed using the same grade of polish but change to a more aggressive foam pad. Once you are satisfied that the surface imperfections have been removed, proceed by using the least abrasive polish / foam pad combination to remove the â€Ëœcompounding hazeâ€â„¢.
a. Use Iz Einzett Paint Polish and a polishing foam (LC White) VC foam
b. Utilizing the same polish, change to a cutting/polishing foam (LC Orange) VC pad
c. With the same polish, change to cutting foam (LC Yellow) VC pad
d. Remove the â€Ëœcompounding hazeâ€â„¢ using Iz Einzett Metallic Polish and a polishing foam (LC White) Flat pad.
If none of these combinations remove the surface imperfections, and only if necessary â€Ëœstep-upâ€â„¢ to a more abrasive polish Iz Einzett Ultra Polish using the same foam pads as in (1) above It is preferable to polish 2-3 times to restore the paint film surface than to use an unnecessarily abrasive machine polish / foam pad combination.
As PACO has suggested only experience will tell you when â€Ëœits as good as I can get it without risk to the clear coatâ€â„¢
The use of abrasive type polish / cleaners should always be restricted to specific problems. Most original paint finishes are tougher on the outer surface than the layers underneath. The outer layers should be preserved as far as possible. Always use the least aggressive product first, evaluate the surface, then only if necessary `step-up' to a more abrasive product.
~Hope this helps~
Knowledge unshared is experience wasted
justadumbarchitect / so I question everything/ Jon
Quote:
~One manâ€â„¢s opinion / observations~
Machine Polish / Foam Pad Combinations:
Always start with the least abrasive combination, if that combination of foam pad and polish doesnâ€â„¢t remove the surface imperfections, proceed using the same grade of polish but change to a more aggressive foam pad. Once you are satisfied that the surface imperfections have been removed, proceed by using the least abrasive polish / foam pad combination to remove the â€Ëœcompounding hazeâ€â„¢.
a. Use Iz Einzett Paint Polish and a polishing foam (LC White) VC foam
b. Utilizing the same polish, change to a cutting/polishing foam (LC Orange) VC pad
c. With the same polish, change to cutting foam (LC Yellow) VC pad
d. Remove the â€Ëœcompounding hazeâ€â„¢ using Iz Einzett Metallic Polish and a polishing foam (LC White) Flat pad.
If none of these combinations remove the surface imperfections, and only if necessary â€Ëœstep-upâ€â„¢ to a more abrasive polish Iz Einzett Ultra Polish using the same foam pads as in (1) above It is preferable to polish 2-3 times to restore the paint film surface than to use an unnecessarily abrasive machine polish / foam pad combination.
As PACO has suggested only experience will tell you when â€Ëœits as good as I can get it without risk to the clear coatâ€â„¢
The use of abrasive type polish / cleaners should always be restricted to specific problems. Most original paint finishes are tougher on the outer surface than the layers underneath. The outer layers should be preserved as far as possible. Always use the least aggressive product first, evaluate the surface, then only if necessary `step-up' to a more abrasive product.
~Hope this helps~
Knowledge unshared is experience wasted
justadumbarchitect / so I question everything/ Jon