Porter Cable 7424 XP - difficult to damage paint?
- Thread starter Matth3w
- Start date
R3Detailing
New member
if you put too much downward pressure on any DA machine, the pad will stop rotating and it will just vibrate in place
you'll be okay
you'll be okay
Accumulator
Well-known member
Matt3w- The only real worries are overheating/burning the paint (*VERY* unlikely unless you do something drastic while using 3-4" pads) or taking off too much clear ( also very unlikely if working on a newer vehicle). You could, however, also run into trouble if you let the pad contact trim that shouldn't be abraded, so generally you oughta keep off the trim unless you have a specific reason to "polish" it.
When applying stuff like wax, you shouldn't have any trouble at all, but again, you might not want to let the pad bump into trim/emplems/etc. Not likely to do damage, but I'd rather err on the side of caution unless/until you know it's just not an issue.
When applying stuff like wax, you shouldn't have any trouble at all, but again, you might not want to let the pad bump into trim/emplems/etc. Not likely to do damage, but I'd rather err on the side of caution unless/until you know it's just not an issue.
Jesstzn
New member
Funny thing... I never use it to apply waxes/sealants ... A) not really a time saver. B) wastes too much product . C) wont get into all the small places so you have to do a lot by hand anyway. D) waxing is good exercise.
imported_WhyteWizard
New member
Matth3w said:
http://www.autopia.org/forum/topic/133183-terrible-paint-polishing-not-my-assessment-but-interesting/
This guy tried to do damage with a few different machines and had a hard time getting it done.
Junebug
JAFO
I dissagree on the applying wax by PC, to me, it's a time saver, gets a nice thin - even layer of wax on the paint. The trick is B&S red pads. But, I do a lot of big 3/4 ton, 4 door trucks and F... waxing those damn things by hand!
Accumulator
Well-known member
I *have* damaged paint with a PC, and it was the older version too...4" green Cyclo/Edge pad, 3m 05937 Machine Glaze(!). Just got too aggressive, thinking "eh, I'll never do damage with this mild stuff!". Famous last words! Note that I've never done comparable damage with a *rotary* despite getting *VERY* aggressive with those. Years ago at the St. Louis Autopian G-T-G, a pal of mine damaged a Benz using my PC with a Meguiar's 7006 pad...yep, a 6" pad on a PC! So it *can* happen, but it's still not too likely.
On the LSP-via-Machine, I go both ways. I can do it faster by hand if you factor in getting out/putting away the machine. But the motions of moving the machine around are very different from the motions of LSPing by hand and I prefer the former. Yeah, still gotta do a few spots by hand, but not that many once you're familiar with machine-LSPing the particular vehicle in question. By machine, I can get an especially even application, but I fair better with waxes than with sealants, just can't quite get as thin an application with a sealant using a machine and I end up wasting product. But with waxes, I do like being able to "work the product" (especially with M16, the "paste wax that turns liquid") and IMO the machine is *much* better for that. I do prefer the Cyclo over the PC/GG/etc. for LSPing, but eh, that's just me.
If you've never tried M16 via machine you really oughta give it a go. I do think I get a better (OK, *slightly* better...) end-result, especially if I use a little QD (generally Griot's SpeedShine) to add a bit of pseudo-spitshine to the process. I almost *enjoy* doing my wife's A8 with M16 via Cyclo. Almost.
On the LSP-via-Machine, I go both ways. I can do it faster by hand if you factor in getting out/putting away the machine. But the motions of moving the machine around are very different from the motions of LSPing by hand and I prefer the former. Yeah, still gotta do a few spots by hand, but not that many once you're familiar with machine-LSPing the particular vehicle in question. By machine, I can get an especially even application, but I fair better with waxes than with sealants, just can't quite get as thin an application with a sealant using a machine and I end up wasting product. But with waxes, I do like being able to "work the product" (especially with M16, the "paste wax that turns liquid") and IMO the machine is *much* better for that. I do prefer the Cyclo over the PC/GG/etc. for LSPing, but eh, that's just me.
If you've never tried M16 via machine you really oughta give it a go. I do think I get a better (OK, *slightly* better...) end-result, especially if I use a little QD (generally Griot's SpeedShine) to add a bit of pseudo-spitshine to the process. I almost *enjoy* doing my wife's A8 with M16 via Cyclo. Almost.
