Poorboy's Compounds and Polishes

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Irkie500

New member
Does anyone here actively use them? if so how well do they work? I love their trim and rubber dressing works extremely well.
 
I use Poorboys Polishes actively, I just detailed a black Acura TL and decided to see how the PC would work again since I have been learning the ways of the the rotary and I started with SSR3 on an orange pad and found it too aggressive so I went to SSR3 and a yellow pad which worked great then followed that up with SSR2 on a white pad for one to two passes depending on severity of swirls and in total got out about 80-85% of the swirls out of black paint. I like the polishes alot, and even tried SSR2 on a white pad with the rotary and found it worked pretty decently.



Chas
 
Thanks for the reply, I plan on using them with the flex so its good to hear they work well with the PC. I think ill get some sonus finishing polish to round out the gang.
 
[quote name='Chas09']I use Poorboys Polishes actively, I just detailed a black Acura TL and decided to see how the PC would work again since I have been learning the ways of the the rotary and I started with SSR3 on an orange pad and found it too aggressive so I went to SSR3 and a yellow pad which worked great then followed that up with SSR2 on a white pad for one to two passes depending on severity of swirls and in total got out about 80-85% of the swirls out of black paint. I like the polishes alot, and even tried SSR2 on a white pad with the rotary and found it worked pretty decently.



Chas



The SSR3 is too harsh for an Acura's/Honda's soft paint (i stay away from the yellow pads too harsh creates holograms. I use orange, green, or white for swirl and scratch removal), but you quickly improvised. You may want to pick up some Menzerna IP/FPII for the soft clear coats.
 
Streetlife said:
The SSR3 is too harsh for an Acura's/Honda's soft paint (i stay away from the yellow pads too harsh creates holograms.
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Agreed. SSR3 is like liquid sandpaper, and the yellow pad makes a mess. PFW or some other wool pad would be a much better choice.
 
yeah I noticed that it left a lot of of micromarring and smaller swirls which is why I really had to use a pass or two of the SSR2, and I found myself using Prima's Swirl polish to correct it as well. I am still trying to learn how to select polishes depending on paint types and I obviously picked the wrong one. I just purchased Menzerna PF from Phil's introduction deal and I cannot wait to use it, I am really hoping I get the results that most others are getting, no swirls and ready to go to LSP.



Chas
 
Yea I think a lot of people have problems with pad and compound pairing, every combonation has different results. So rule of thumb stay away from SSR3 unless severe paint correction is needed. Remember use the least abrasive first!
 
I used PB's Polish with Sealant. It is a very good light polish that finishes well for protection. I am a big fan of their line, especially since they can all be used in direct sunlight.
 
I bought the poorboys ex-p and look forward to using it on my white corolla in the spring. I may do half the car in ex-p and half in the wolfgang dgps and see how they compare.
 
I used to use their polishes/compounds a lot, and although I seem to be in the minority on this forum I found them to be user friendly and effective via PC.



SSR2.5 for most swirls with a light cutting pad, can sometimes finish LSP ready with a polishing pad.



SSR1 with polishing pad if needed to clean up marring from SSR2.5 and cutting pad on softer paints / darker colors.



SSR3 is hardly ever needed except for scratches or deep swirls, pretty aggressive and leaves a lot of marring.



SSR2 seems to me to be in no-man's land between SSR2.5 and SSR1. It doesn't seem to have much more cut than the SSR1 so if that isn't strong enough I would go straight past SSR2 to SSR2.5.
 
smprince1 said:
SSR2.5 for most swirls with a light cutting pad, can sometimes finish LSP ready with a polishing pad.



SSR1 with polishing pad if needed to clean up marring from SSR2.5 and cutting pad on softer paints / darker colors.



SSR3 is hardly ever needed except for scratches or deep swirls, pretty aggressive and leaves a lot of marring.



SSR2 seems to me to be in no-man's land between SSR2.5 and SSR1. It doesn't seem to have much more cut than the SSR1 so if that isn't strong enough I would go straight past SSR2 to SSR2.5.
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+1. My only comment is that SSR2.5 has something in it (in the same way CG's Laser Buff does) so it may fill some imperfections. SSR2.5 always leaves the surface slick instead of "squeaky clean". I'll also agree with some of the other posts about SSR3 being liquid sandpaper (or as some of us call it, rocks in a bottle) and that today there are probably better choices for heavy cutting that don't leave as much marring.
 
I like PoorBoy's products, I currently have 2.5, 1 and EX-P.

I recently bought Lake Country buffing pads and even more impressed with the polishing of the PB's products.
 
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