Poorboy sequence?

S

shadybreal

New member
Is the following a decent sequence for paint correction and protection? Or do I need another finishing step after the easy on/easy off w/ carnuba?

Wash, clay, SSR2, SSR1, easy on/easy off w/ carnuba, and QT to remove let over residue.

Thanks!
 
SSR2 would be used before SSR1.
"easy on/easy off w/ carnuba" is what? Polish With Carnauba?
QT=? Spray and Wipe? Quick Wax+? Quick Detailer in general? If it's S+W or just a QD in general, then the rest of the steps seem ok. You'll likely get a bit better longevity from a sealant than the PwC, but the PwC should last a month anyways.
 
You may not need the SSR2 if your marring and swirl marks are not severe . Do a test and see if they come out with just the SSR1. If so, I would skip the SSR2 and use Vanilla Moose Glaze for light colored car or Red Moose Glaze for Black or Red Cars for final glazing. Then apply the Carnauba and QT. Good Luck. JoeD
 
Not exactly sure what you mean by your wording but for paint correction (medium to heavy swirling... found on 80% of cars) my process would be

-SSR 2.5
-SSR1
-Polish with Carnauba (if you want a little extra polish, paint cleaner, added appearance)
-LSP (wax, sealant, spray wax... whatever you prefer)

I don't use SSR2 much anymore once I began using 2.5. I like the cutting power of 2.5 and it finishes off very nicely. Be sure to use a polishing pad with the 2.5, not a cutting as that would most likely induce marring.
 
shadybreal said:
Is the following a decent sequence for paint correction and protection? Or do I need another finishing step after the easy on/easy off w/ carnuba?

Wash, clay, SSR2, SSR1, easy on/easy off w/ carnuba, and QT to remove let over residue.

Thanks!
Click to expand...
I assume that you are doing this by hand..in that case make sure to work in small area 12 x 12 inch areas this will allow you to keep good control over the area.


Your wash and clay are in line but the SSR2 can be an aggressive step...depending on the condition of your paint, I would start with the SSR1 and see how that looks...if you need more removal then I would use the SSR2 and then back to the SSR1..I've done few cars that have required SSR2...The next step would be wax after that....I prefer P-w-C then wax, sealant or both.

Hope this helps
 
budman3 said:
Not exactly sure what you mean by your wording but for paint correction (medium to heavy swirling... found on 80% of cars) my process would be

-SSR 2.5
-SSR1
-Polish with Carnauba (if you want a little extra polish, paint cleaner, added appearance)
-LSP (wax, sealant, spray wax... whatever you prefer)

I don't use SSR2 much anymore once I began using 2.5. I like the cutting power of 2.5 and it finishes off very nicely. Be sure to use a polishing pad with the 2.5, not a cutting as that would most likely induce marring.
Click to expand...

What LSP do you use and recommend?
 
Beemerboy said:
I assume that you are doing this by hand..in that case make sure to work in small area 12 x 12 inch areas this will allow you to keep good control over the area.


Your wash and clay are in line but the SSR2 can be an aggressive step...depending on the condition of your paint, I would start with the SSR1 and see how that looks...if you need more removal then I would use the SSR2 and then back to the SSR1..I've done few cars that have required SSR2...The next step would be wax after that....I prefer P-w-C then wax, sealant or both.

Hope this helps
Click to expand...

Using a PC to do the hood of most vehicles and hand on sides if the paint is not in too bad of shape.
 
shadybreal said:
Using a PC to do the hood of most vehicles and hand on sides if the paint is not in too bad of shape.
Click to expand...

Then using a polishing pad I would start with the SSR2 if that's what you have and do a section and see how that looks...bare in mind that there might be some hazing on the clear...its an aggressive product...from there move to the SSR1 with a polishing pad...The easy on easy off that you talked about is this polish with carnauba?

You asked about a LSP any decent paste wax or sealant would be the choice...both is what I like
 
Beemerboy said:
Then using a polishing pad I would start with the SSR2 if that's what you have and do a section and see how that looks...bare in mind that there might be some hazing on the clear...its an aggressive product...from there move to the SSR1 with a polishing pad...The easy on easy off that you talked about is this polish with carnauba?

You asked about a LSP any decent paste wax or sealant would be the choice...both is what I like
Click to expand...


Yes the EO/EN is the Poorboys polish w/ carnuba. How do you use the paste wax w/ a PC? Do you take it completely out of the container and rub it on a pad? What pad do you suggest?
 
shadybreal said:
Yes the EO/EN is the Poorboys polish w/ carnuba. How do you use the paste wax w/ a PC? Do you take it completely out of the container and rub it on a pad? What pad do you suggest?
Click to expand...

The paste wax is applied by hand with a foam pad you can get a even coat this way...just open the jar and wipe the pad on the surface...working in small areas apply to the surface....I work in circular motions to get an even coating....I also like to mist very finely some QD spray on the surface before applying the wax...once its dry you can remove it very easy.
 
Beemerboy said:
The paste wax is applied by hand with a foam pad you can get a even coat this way...just open the jar and wipe the pad on the surface...working in small areas apply to the surface....I work in circular motions to get an even coating....I also like to mist very finely some QD spray on the surface before applying the wax...once its dry you can remove it very easy.
Click to expand...


Foam pad like the edge pads or something different? I've seen an adapter for the foam pads for hand use, but i don't know now where to buy them.
 
shadybreal said:
Foam pad like the edge pads or something different? I've seen an adapter for the foam pads for hand use, but i don't know now where to buy them.
Click to expand...

you can use foam pads that can be bought at any Wal-mart or auto store , or most LSP's (wax or sealant) will come with an applicator. :)
 
Poorboy said:
you can use foam pads that can be bought at any Wal-mart or auto store , or most LSP's (wax or sealant) will come with an applicator. :)
Click to expand...


Thanks Steve...wally world or any decent auto parts store will have them....Meguiars makes some decent ones. available everywhere
 
Resurrecting this one.....

Wash, clay, SSR2, SSR1,
Click to expand...

Help me understand, why do you need to use clay if you're going to use an SSR? I'm not saying it's wrong at all, just seems redundant to me, I just want to understand this process better.

Thanks.
 
jeepnfl said:
Resurrecting this one.....



Help me understand, why do you need to use clay if you're going to use an SSR? I'm not saying it's wrong at all, just seems redundant to me, I just want to understand this process better.

Thanks.
Click to expand...

JEEP

Take a plastic sandwich bag and on a fresh / cleaned car put your hand in the bag and palm side down run that across the surface, you will feel it to be bumpy and somewhat rough. That's the stuff the clay is going to take off.

Using any of the SSR lineup is not going to remove that real well, and even more its going to smear that around on the surface.

Clay is just one more process that helps to prep the paint for a better finish.

I clay my cars a few times a year, for this reason and to remove old product so that I can start over
 
jeepnfl said:
Got it! It REMOVES the contaminants so the SSR can do it's job on the PAINT. Thanks for clarifying for me.
Click to expand...


Spot on there, you can buy clay in a kit at about any decent auto parts store or online at one of the sponsors
 
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